Starter Issues

[Bronco_Chuck]

So I just got back into a ranger after a few years since I sold my last one. I managed to pick up an 88 extended cab 4wd that's in pretty good shape overall. With that said it didn't come without its shair of issues. From what I've seen so far it was originally an automatic with an electronic transfer case, that has since been replaced with the fm 5 speed and a manual case. I don't have any idea how long ago that happened. When I got the truck the starter was missing the upper bolt and wouldn't even try to start with the key. I suspect it's partially to do with the mangled and hacked together transmission harness. So if anyone knows the wire colors that need to be spliced together for the neutral safety switch that would be awesome. The guy I got it from said it had a new flywheel and clutch, and a new starter. After replacing the missing starter bolt and jumping the starter solenoid it grinds and hardly turns the beast of a 2.9. Im starting to suspect they used a 4.0 flywheel and clutch as I've tried 2 different 2.9 starters and both grind. Is there any way to tell the difference without pulling the tranny? Sorry for the long post.

 

[RonD]

Clutch conversion article here: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech/ford-2-9-converted-to-4-0-clutch/

but doesn't show flywheel differences, but has a good picture of the 4.0l starter in place

Early starter motors looked like this: https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/5YcAAOSwiBZka32q/s-l1600.jpg
These just have the 1 larger cable hooked up via the Starter Relay(solenoid) on the inner fender
No round cylinder on top

Later models got a starter relay/solenoid added to the top and look like this: https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/d7d55538-9d8f-4859-8523-d2d258a34ebd_1.5566032f80cebfb5429d0fd5359b046f.jpeg
They will have the larger cable from starter relay on inner fender and a 2nd smaller wire from starter relay, this smaller wire activates the starter, which may matter for your Clutch switch rewiring
4.0ls all used this type of starter

All Rangers 2001 and earlier were wired for Manual transmissions, automatic wiring was an added harness, in 2002 two separate harness's were used
So you will have the wiring for the clutch switch

Red/blue stripe wires are what Ford used in most years for the starting circuit, switched to some pink wires in later 1990's
So red/blue wire from ignition switch to clutch switch
Red/blue wire from clutch switch thru the firewall to Starter relay "S" post

These 2 red/blue stripe wires should be next to each other on the 6 slot clutch switch connector, at one end
Jumper them together and it by-pass's the clutch switch


Back to 4.0l starter motor if that's what you have
The red/blue wire in the engine bay can go directly to the starter motor's smaller "S" post, that is what was done in later years, by-passing the starter relay on inner fender, so one less thing that can go wrong
The inner fender starter relay is still used as the 12volt distribution point, so it has to stay, but it no longer needs to "work" its just a wiring connection point for Battery Positive 12v power

 

[Bronco_Chuck]

Thank you for the wiring info. I have 2 of the older style 2.9 starters. And both seem to be either too close to the ring gear, almost like the front of the starter gear hits the face of the ring gear and doesn't extend all the way. Or is too far from the ring gear to engage the teeth and is just skipping.

 

[RonD]

So not a 4.0l flywheel

Have you tried turning the engine manually just to see if it can turn

2.9l starter motors had a common issues of grinding instead of turning ring gear
It was usually because of no or worn out Block plate, the block plate's sole purpose is to align starter motor with ring gear
If its not there or its hole has enlarged because starter motor bolts got loose then its very hard to shim it just right to get it to engage every time, or just once, lol

If block plate is missing you can try thin shim washers between starter motor housing and bell housing, brings nose back out a bit
Some have also use thin crescent shaped shims in the start motor housing bolt holes to place motor closer or farther away from ring gear when bolts are tightened
Cut up a coke/beer can for these

I never had that issue but only had one 2.9l Ranger

Google: Ford ranger 2.9l starter motor grinding

Loads of advice

 

[Bronco_Chuck]

Block plate is there, engine turns over, I'll try the shims. Took one of the starters apart to use the nose cone to get an idea of how far off it was.