Ranger and mustand hoods compatible?

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Im not home but i Think its called quick max or something like that, essentially a liquid weld i packed into the crack and than layered a 1/4 in thick Over it and shaped it to conform to the manifold. Says it can be sanded drilled tapped Yada Yada after curing, designed for cracks on manifolds and other items. The crack was literally like a hairline fracture, I spread the weld a 1/2 inch out each side of crack and the full circumference of the section where the crack is incase it tries to recrack or spread.

Take this as an opportunity to get headers.

And do what @RonD does and take it to a muffler shop first and have the guys there replace the exhaust manifold bolts.

I started calling him God after I read that. Pure freaking genius.

 

[snoranger]

Take this as an opportunity to get headers.

And do what @RonD does and take it to a muffler shop first and have the guys there replace the exhaust manifold bolts.

I started calling him God after I read that. Pure freaking genius.

I actually don’t mind doing manifold bolts on Superdutys. I like a good challenge.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

I actually don’t mind doing manifold bolts on Superdutys. I like a good challenge.

Wanna do the engine mount bolts on mine while you're at it and exchange for 7.3?

 

[Waldoduhh]

Take this as an opportunity to get headers.

And do what @RonD does and take it to a muffler shop first and have the guys there replace the exhaust manifold bolts.

I started calling him God after I read that. Pure freaking genius.

By bolts you mean the two that connect to the rest of the exhaust? And by two, I now mean one since one just snapped off halfway tight looks like someone did a very poor job but welded the bolts on to the manifold, and by weld, I mean a massive tumor on each one i forgot i have another manifold sitting with my other engine as a backup, gonna see if it matches up, its for the 2.3 I rebuilt. I'd assume it would since the only difference head wise between the two is 2.5 is slightly taller, atleast thats what im seeing.

 

[Waldoduhh]

 

[Dirtman]

Today's welding lesson: Don't do whatever that is....

 

[snoranger]

Today's welding lesson: Don't do whatever that is....

Free welding lessons...

 

[Waldoduhh]

Well, I pulled another manifold as suggested, looks like it had a new eeg on it, dropped fuel tank cleaned it up and retightened tank lid, all codes are gone now aside from the bank 1 sensor 2 code, which I have no bank 2 sensor since I had to flex pipe all the way back, old exhaust was completely falling apart and dragging on the driveshaft. Still have the on off shit running, again very very mild with hood off. All lights are gone aside from abs and brake light. Any suggestions? Oh, also for some reason when I open the passenger door the fuel reset light comes on

 

[Dirtman]

Oh, also for some reason when I open the passenger door the fuel reset light comes on

The fuel pump inertia switch must be loose, or it was tripped previously. Once they are tripped they never hold right again and you can set them off by shutting the passenger door.

 

[Waldoduhh]

The fuel pump inertia switch must be loose, or it was tripped previously. Once they are tripped they never hold right again and you can set them off by shutting the passenger door.

So I tried jumping the wires to bypass switch and see what happens, Still does it when I open the door only. Cant find a sensor in the door though and the wires don't go into the door so im confused. Not a big deal though it doesn't affect the running of vehicle at all. Im curious if maybe an exhaust valve might be the cause of my problems, but it just don't make sense that it only does it intermittently, and conditional with a hood off vs a hood on. I did get a small length of exhaust that has a 02 sensor port on it so gonna add that somewhere in the flex pipe line for bank 1 sensor 2

 

[Dirtman]

The downstream sensor really doesn't effect how the engine runs, it's just there to monitor the catalytic converter. Yea you should still get it fixed but it wouldn't be the cause of your issues.

 

[cbxer55]

On the topic of modifying the hood, or as the title says, Mustang hood compatible. For years I've had to run 93 octane to avoid ping. Since adding the hood scoop and side vents, I am now running 91 with no ping and will be trying 90 the nest fill up. Eventually I'll get down to 89. Doubt I'll ever put bilge water 87 in it though. I believe the five holes directly over the intake tube helped the most. It doesn't get hot enough to fry an egg on anymore, only warm. The throttle body and intake manifold also just get warm, not super hot. On my Lightning, the computer pulls timing when the intake gets hot. It has two intake temperature sensors, one at the filter and one under the intercooler. When the air under the i/c gets too hot, it retards timing big time. It's for if the i/c pump goes out, which mine has once. So if hot air needs to have the timing retarded, then cooling off the tube helps.

 

[Waldoduhh]

@Waldoduhh Try shimming the back of the hood, up by the windshield, up with washers. @PetroleumJunkie412 did this to his ranger for cooling purposes, but it might allow more airflow under your hood, to help your truck run as if there was no hood on it.

I tried this and removing the seal, shit not only worked but my truck for the first time ever drove all the way to work flawlessly! Not even a hiccup!

 

[Waldoduhh]

On the topic of modifying the hood, or as the title says, Mustang hood compatible. For years I've had to run 93 octane to avoid ping. Since adding the hood scoop and side vents, I am now running 91 with no ping and will be trying 90 the nest fill up. Eventually I'll get down to 89. Doubt I'll ever put bilge water 87 in it though. I believe the five holes directly over the intake tube helped the most. It doesn't get hot enough to fry an egg on anymore, only warm. The throttle body and intake manifold also just get warm, not super hot. On my Lightning, the computer pulls timing when the intake gets hot. It has two intake temperature sensors, one at the filter and one under the intercooler. When the air under the i/c gets too hot, it retards timing big time. It's for if the i/c pump goes out, which mine has once. So if hot air needs to have the timing retarded, then cooling off the tube helps.

Yeah I'm gonna try running higher octane or atleast a booster see if that helps as well

 

[cbxer55]

I finally got around to doing one of the two small scoops directly over the air filter, 1.5 hole in the hood. Drove it to work yesterday, it was 65 degrees, took the 24 mile route rather than the 6 mile route. When I got there I opened the hood and felt up all the intake components. Filter, MAF, steel tube connecting MAF to TB, the TB itself, and the metal intake manifold. Nothing was hot, the steel tube was tepid. Also I am now running 89 octane instead of 93, and no ping. I guess you could say it now runs like a vehicle with no hood. Or as close as you can get with a hood on it.

I have a second small scoop identical to the first that I am going to put on today. Then I'll post pictures.