Questions about 1999 B3000

[James Morse]

Looking at a decent '99 Mazda B3000 with extended cab (not 4-door). Hoping you guys can help me with a coupld questions before I make final decision to buy.

1. The little doors that open behind the actual doors, the plastic mount / face plate on the door jamb where the cable goes through is broken. You can still open the doors if you hold your fingers on the thing to keep it in place, but, it's obviously not right. How expensive are the parts to fix, and how hard is it to do? I already talked the guy down some so I hate to keep niggling about things if they aren't serious, but if it's a major pain to fix this then I might ask for more off the price. Just trying to get a rough idea on it.

2. How do you tell where it was made (what country). Just curious about that as I've hear that can affect build quality.

3. VIN is 4F4YR16V6XTM47630. When I try to look this up in Carfax or Edmunds they tell me that's not a good VIN. However when I got quote from my insurance on cost to add it, they say the VIN is good. What gives with that?

4. It has only one key with it. What's the best way to get a second key made?

5. My g/f says she heard "ticking" noise, mostly on startup from cold. I myself think this is the injectors, I heard the same sound on other vehicles I had with F.I. It's not really loud. I just want to make sure I'm not hearing something else weird, and, if there are any particular places or things I should listen please let me know.

6. Are those alloy wheels an option or are those aftermarket? Rest of truck looks totally stock from what I can see.

7. Where's the best place to get a shop manual for it?

I'm new to the forum and if you all can help me out with this I'd really appreciate it.

Pic of vehicle is attached. Zero body rust anywhere. Some dents (you can see the worst one) and scratches. Nothing really bad though. Probably the paintless guys could fix that one on the front fender, if not, no biggie to me.

 

[Ranger850]

#1. You can get those parts from RockAuto or anywhere like that or a Junk Yard.
#2. I don't know, but I think all of those trucks were made in USA.
#3. Recheck the "I's" for "1's" and the zeros for "0's" and there was a guy that could do the deep VIN search, but there is a way to deciphe3r your VIN on the interweb.
#4. KeyShop / Locksmith
#5. If it ain't tickin', how do you know it's runnin'? lol
#6. Those are Mazda "B" specific as far as I know
#7. if it does not have an owner's manual in the glovebox, E-bay or Amazon or maybe someone on here has one for sale. As Far as a "shop" manual, Haynes/Chilton will do, but experience tells me, those things can be WRONG AF.

Maybe someone can answer some of these better than me, I'm no expert at tall.

 

[fastpakr]

VIN definitely comes up as valid for me:

Car report for 4F4YR16V6XTM47630 VIN number

Car report for 4F4YR16V6XTM47630 VIN number

www.vindecoderz.com

You can pick up a spare key blank online - you'll need either an OEM or Strattec brand as some of the third party ones really are junk. As long as you can get it cut to match your existing one by any lock shop, I can help you with programming it to your truck (we're in the same town, so I can physically do it in person if you're up for that and we can coordinate schedules). Here's some more info on that:

PATS programming with Forscan

You can now program your own PATS keys without a trip to the dealer even if you don't have two working keys. Here's what you need: 1) An ELM327 interface for the OBD2 port. Not one of the $10 generic ones, but a real one (expect to spend about $30 or so). Click HERE for the unit I used...

www.therangerstation.com

 

[James Morse]

That is awesome, thanks to both of you and probably first thing I'll do is get the second key because if I lost the one I'd be up shit creek.

Bought it, filled the tank, good to go. Yeah I do have the little owner manual.

I looked at the rear doors more and the deal is that you can open them, but you have to hold the little grommets in place, they are not seated in the door jamb. What they do, which you surely know, is they keep the cable sheathing from pulling through the holes. If they aren't there then you can't get tension on the cables and that's the issue. It looks like all I need is new grommets and then I'd have to take the cable off to get the new grommets over it. I think that sound correct.

I really appreciate the help and yes I will get the right kind of key and have it cut then I will take you up on your kind offer to get it programmed, thank you.

Thanks for the link to the report. That's a lot of help all around.

 

[James Morse]

Fastpakr.... I'm thinking of getting the key blank from Berglund Mazda right down the street from me. Does that make sense? Might be a little more than Strattec but there's value to being able to get it quick and know it's right. Then maybe they can cut it too or like you said, any locksmith.

I noticed passenger side door lock does not seem to work with key that works ignition and driver door. What is easiest way to remedy this? I don't want a separate key for it. I'm guessing perhaps tumblers in that lock are shot or something like that... I can't imagine they had a separate key for it.

I have to think truck has had some work done over the years. Tranny shifts up/down smoothly and properly, which would be amazing if that were the original tranny. Truck came from Norman OK (still has dealer sticker on the back) and got here via FL and TX which probably explains the no body rust.

Unrelated question - like any used vehicle, you notice after you get it little things here/there which I expect - it's hard to hit all this stuff when you look at them, I concentrate on engine/tranny, etc more than looking for niggling things like wipers squeak etc. Anyway - although I had tried heater fan, I notice now that it runs only on High setting, thankfully, not noisy and works strong, and a/c good, but the fan doesn't work on other (lower) speeds. I would guess this is not in the fan motor itself, rather, perhaps in the switch or, more likely, in the electrics that probably step down the power for the lower settings - resistors or something. Kind of guessing, but anyway, do you or anyone know what would be likely cause and where I should look to fix it?

Thanks.

 

[fastpakr]

You can certainly check with Berglund for a key blank. I don't know if they'll sell you one directly or not. If you order online, you'll need the Strattec H72PT. They're cheap if you dig around too. Here's a two pack for $10.50:

Strattec Key Blank for Ford PATS Transponder Key Blank H72PT (598333) - 2 Pack | eBay

Strattec Key Blank for Ford PATS Transponder Key Blank H72PT (598333) - 2 Pack. Condition is "New". Shipped with USPS First Class.

www.ebay.com

The harder part may be getting it cut to match your current one. Some places are finicky about that sort of thing since there's a security system involved and they're not doing the programming to make it match. I used Hixson in the past, but they closed in the last year or two.

It's very possible that the passenger lock issue is just a function of needing lubrication. If you can open the door, there's a black metal tab that releases the lock cylinder. Pop it out and spray it out with a penetrating spray, dry it out, then hit it with lock lubricant. Both of my door locks became useless while I had the truck off the road for a while with engine issues, but this got them going and they work perfectly now.

The blower fan only working on high is a classic blower resistor failure. Should be cheap and a quick replacement.

 

[fastpakr]

 

[James Morse]

fastpakr - Berglund says they don't have it, they directed me to B&D lock on Williamson, I called B&D and they said they can make a cut key for 20 and program it for 40 more. So, I'm thinking, if the interface is about 30, it's kind of a wash plus I could get it done in one shot and hopefully have it today and be done with it. I'd still probably like to meet up perhaps sometime. I really appreciate your offer on the programming to help me though.

I'm thinking if this is a one-shot deal and I don't have to do it again (I hope) then what I said above is probably the easiest quickest way to get it done.

I don't know what the ELM327 interface does, if I need it for something else, then, it might make sense to get it, but if B&D can do the whole thing right away I'm tending to go that route.

BTW I am assuming here it does have a transponder - but, just in case, they said they have a tool to check and confirm that. Because if it doesn't, they're way cheaper. But I'm assuming, yeah, it does have the transponder, nothing you said would lead me to believe otherwise.

Thank you for the help and as to the fan that sounds just like what I was thinking. As long as resistor setup isn't integral to the fan motor / assembly etc then, yeah, it should be easy. At least for now I do have high working. They would have needed that for inspection anyway. It was already inspected thru 8-22 so that's cool.

I have a feeling this truck is going to be easier to work on. I got so sick of new cars where you have to tear the whole thing apart to get to one little problem, getting to it is more work than fixing it, if you know what I mean. I don't have power windows, and you know what, I like that, because I've replaced window motors / switches and it's not fun and they are expensive. Manual roll-up can fail too but not so much.

Yeah passenger door opens fine, just, lock is funky. Might even ask B&D to take a real quick look at it, if they get it working for a couple bucks that'd be ok with me, if not, then I'll do it, and thanks for that info, too. Awesome.

 

[fastpakr]

If B&D is willing to do the entire programming procedure for $60, that's not bad. I'm not clear on whether they're simply cloning your current key or actually clearing out your current key and setting the two new ones up as separate keys (the way it would have been from the factory, and the way that would allow you to program a third key in the future easily).

As far as the ELM, etc - you wouldn't need to worry about any of that. I've got one to use and just need to get Forscan reloaded on my laptop. I'll be doing that anyway sometime soon as I've got a spare PCM coming in the mail tomorrow that I want to program for my keys. The actual key programming process takes 10-15 minutes.

Your keys definitely have a transponder. If not, your THEFT light would flash rapidly when you put the key in and try to start. In '99, the only Ranger that didn't was the 4 cylinder. I'm assuming here that the B-series is identical, but maybe @RonD could provide confirmation.

 

[James Morse]

OK - sorry I'm dense here - I don't quite understand about cloning vs separate keys. I guess I'd prefer the latter, if it was like that from the factory, sounds preferable and sure, I might want a third key sometime.

I don't understand the difference. I think I better understand it before I go there so I know what to ask/tell them. If I say I want it set up like the factory and that involves clearing my current key that might cost more...

Can't get my last two brain cells around it...

 

[James Morse]

This helped me quite a bit:

https://www.locksmithledger.com/keys-tools/article/10690343/how-and-when-to-clone-transponder-keys

So don't spend lots of time explaining for me now that I've read the above. It depends what they can do there at B&D and what kind of keys they have.

OEM type setup (NOT cloned) is better, then in theory, if supported, the separate codes tell the vehicle "this is driver 1/2/3" etc and it knows to set things like radio presets etc etc to that person's preferences. I don't know how much they did of that in the truck I have, but I do see your point for sure and that is definitely the way to go if it can be done.

What I'm going to do is just go do it, and, if they say, we only clone, we don't have the ability to make OEM type setup, then, I'll still do that just because I need that key. But if they do have the OEM type setup I'll tell them, use that.

Makes sense?

One last (I think) question on this: Let's say they can only clone it. That doesn't prevent me from getting the OEM type setup key in the future, is that correct?

THANK YOU.

 

[James Morse]

@fastpkr - Good news - I called B&D and they said the price given is for OEM setup key, NOT cloned. They for sure should know the difference. He knew exactly what I was asking.

Thank you so much, I'd be flying blind without you. I think I'm good to go on this, headed over there, and I'll let you know how it goes.

BTW... what are the things that B3000 responds to when it sees, this is driver 1, or, this is driver 2.

I really see the difference now. Many thanks.

 

[RonD]

Yes, the 1999/2000 Mazda 3.0l or 4.0l B-series did have PATS so used transponder keys, model H72-PT
In 2001 All B-series, including the 2001 4cyl 2300 had PATS, and the V6's

2005 Ranger or B-series didn't have PATS, it was skipped that year because of a ongoing dispute($$) with the Patent holder of the system


A PATS key has an electronic "number" embedded in a chip in the handle of the key, this is called an RFID tag(google it), its used in many industries
The chip requires no power, no battery, and there are millions of "numbers"
Most PATS systems have a memory for up to 8 key "numbers"
If you add a 9th key it replaces the first "number" in the memory
At the factory usually only 2 or 3 keys are added to memory, so plenty of memory to add more PATS key numbers

To add more PATS key numbers to memory you need a laptop connected to OBD2 port on vehicle and the software on the laptop to "talk" to the PATS system
Since keys are lost(and you don't know who has them) its best to ERASE ALL PATS key numbers
Then add the ones you have back and any new keys, must have at least TWO KEY numbers in memory or system will not work(no start)

Since each PATS key has a unique number that can be "read" by PATS transceiver(RFID Reader) then a person like a locksmith can "read" a keys "number"
And you can buy BLANK PATS keys, has no "number", its how all PATS keys start off, blank, when being made the final process is to "write" a unique "number" onto the Blank RFID Tag

This is where CLONING comes in
If you have a working PATS key, it starts the engine, then a locksmith can "read" that key's "number" and then "write" that same "number" to a Blank Key
So you have TWO keys with the same number, or 3 or 4 ect......
PATS thinks its the same key so it works the same as original
This is a less expensive way to have spare keys
And no, the Clone is not different from a "new" key with a different "number", its exactly the same as a "new" key, went thru the same process of having a "number" written onto it, and then Cut to match the lock

 

[James Morse]

@RonD & fastpakr:

Yeah new key is Ilco H72-PT. It's stamped on it.

I called B&D Lock and went over this with them. They said they didn't know a key was missing, which seems kind of wacky since I told them I had only one key, but anyway, they said bring the keys, and they will erase the old key and reset it or whatever they do, anyway, they understand that I don't want the missing key to be able to start the car. They won't charge me for doing that, which is decent of them since if I'd know wtf I was doing I would have told them what I wanted when I was up there. So I'll go up tomorrow, I doubt the thing will get stolen tonight (famous last words). The missing key probably is, just, gone, but you are totally right it's much more peace of mind to know that I am the only one who has keys that work.

I think part of my confusion was the business about smart keys whereby different keys have different capabilities in the vehicle like limiting the speed and so on. They said that technology didn't arrive until about 2010 so no way I would have that in a '99.

Unless I'm still mixed up about this, the new key I got today does not have the same code as my old key. It should be ok, right? And the old key, they will erase from the vehicle and they will re-program with a new code and then finally, I will know that, even if somebody shows up with the missing key, they can't start the truck.

Thank you very much for your help. I guess if they have to reprogram both keys they'll do that. Bottom line is, we need to clear whatever was in memory as to old key codes, and re-program one or both keys, as needed, to new codes, then I should be good to go.

One last question hopefully the last one: do two different keys by necessity have different codes, or can you have two keys that use the same code? I'm guessing the first (they have to have different codes), since otherwise absent the smart technology, there'd be no need at all for multiple (8) available "slots" for codes.

It's an education.

 

[fastpakr]

Normal procedure is for them to have separate codes. Cloned keys do use the same code, but it does present the issue of not being able to create new ones yourself using the factory procedure down the road. The PATS system on the truck would see any cloned keys as being the same key.