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My New House & Workshop


Rick W

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3”
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235/75-15 wranglers
My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
What about taking the roof off the last 30-40’ raising the walls up 4ft, and adding a 30ft wide addition extending towards the house, and then putting a roof across all. Building would be “L” shaped, with 2/3 at the higher height. You’d pay for 3 walls and the roof.

If you go metal, the erector can put a steel sill plate along the alley-side wall, and span all with steel trusses. You could tear down the house side wall and have it all a clear span, maybe a couple posts in the middle.

Also, I don’t think either of the block walls where the original building ends are structural, but the one by the bathroom has plumbing in it. If you come 4-5’ off the block walls towards the front and poke a hole in the ceiling and get another rafter picture there, I could make a better guess ;-).
 


Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: DE2235E7692E8C: July 5th, 2021

Jim Oaks

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I have (2) different companies that are suppose to come out this week. Both do roofing, but I believe both have also built metal buildings. I'll hopefully get my info on what my options are. Also trying to get quotes for a 24x30 metal building with (2) 10x9 doors and 10-foot walls.

It seems like if I have to pay anyone to do work on this building, I'm going to end up paying as much as I would for a new metal one.
 

RobbieD

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Jim, if you end up replacing any roofing, take a hard look at metal roofing. I changed my asphalt shingle roof to metal, and I think it's well worth it.
 

don4331

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My math is $14,700 for materials. I thought the first guy just quoted $50k because he didn't want to do it.
Jim:

If we assume the contractors can get the materials for a little less - volume/wholesale pricing, so say $12.5k for easy calculations. Then we use @alwaysFlOoReD 's quote the job @ 4x material cost formula, you would get quotes for $50k.
Therefore, the quotes are probably in the right ballpark. Not what you wanted to hear, but based on current economic conditions, what the market is charging.​
If you're able to be your own general contractor, GC, you can save the $12.5k for general contractor's pay, equipment upkeep, rent, various insurances, the government cut, and profit off the top. And maybe significant portion of the labour cost.​
The best sub contractors are on time for both start and completion time, efficient and need minimal supervision, so they are what a GC wants so he can be doing additional jobs. But they charge appropriately and are booked forever. But with a little more supervision, the "B" team can do the exact same work for a lot less.​
Part of the quote includes dealing with unexpected issues - but only small ones. e.g. Having to pay "B" team roofer as "A" team individual wasn't available so GC has to be on site daily...​

But to be a GC, you either need to have general idea what each disciplines do/cost/timelines are or have very good individuals in each discipline providing you with that information (and working well together).
It can provide a lot of satisfaction as you were the one who completed the job.​
Or it can get stressful when you find out the previous work on bathroom wasn't correctly back filled so: roof needs to be braced, portion of wall needs to come down, the foundation dug up, properly backfilled, foundation re-poured, wall rebuilt before you can proceed. And by that time, the individuals you had lined up for the roof are working for someone else...​
 
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Jim Oaks

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Jim:

If we assume the contractors can get the materials for a little less - volume/wholesale pricing, so say $12.5k for easy calculations. Then we use @alwaysFlOoReD 's quote the job @ 4x material cost formula, you would get quotes for $50k.
Therefore, the quotes are probably in the right ballpark. Not what you wanted to hear, but based on current economic conditions, what the market is charging.​
I'm not crazy about the quote, but it helps to understand it.

Thanks.
 

franklin2

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I always keep in mind when modifying or building, that I may pull up stakes and sell and would like it to bring as much money as possible and not be on the market forever.

That's why the last garage I built, it was 20x30 with 3 garage doors on one side. But I never used it as a garage, it was a shop with the center door used for the lift. But when I sold that place and cleared all my junk out of there, it was useable as a garage for someone to park their vehicles in. More appealing for "normal" people, not someone with a lift and a bunch of welders and stuff who works on cars all the time.

I think Rick W is pushing in certain directions because of this. You don't want to make the lot look too weird and not be appealing to the masses. You never know what may happen. And you will get all your money back and then some if you have to sell.
 

Rick W

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My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely
I’m am a little pushy, just a little, sorry for that, but @franklin2 hit the nail on the head. The real trick is to get everything that you want, and still have general appeal for return on investment, and do it at the lowest price possible, or flexible for easy change later, or both.

If there are no other metal buildings in the neighborhood, I’d think twice about that and resale.

& trust my gray hairs, the one sure thing about life is it will change. Murphy is alive and well!!!
 

Jim Oaks

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I don't see much resale value in derached garages. When I sold my house in Ohio they based the price on the square footage of the house. They didn't factor in the metal shop.

When I bought this house the pricing was focused on the square foot of the house. The 1,300+ sqft building was just a storage building with little value.

My real estate agent here in Texas said her and her husband built a $17k shop on their property, but it didn't raise the value much when they sold the home.

I think if anything it makes the property more appealing to someone that wants a garage or workshop.
 

franklin2

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If there are no other metal buildings in the neighborhood, I’d think twice about that and resale.
Yep. My wife put her foot down that she did not want an ugly metal building at our previous location. But a pole barn type structure was the easiest cheapest for me to put up by myself. So I went ahead and built a pole barn type garage, but I nailed t1-11 on the purloins for the siding, and sheathed the roof and used shingles and painted it to match the house which had vertical siding on it. You could not tell the difference from a conventional structure from the outside.
 

Rick W

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Total Lift
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N/A
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235/75-15 wranglers
My credo
Never put off ‘til tomorrow what you can put off indefinitely

Jim Oaks

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Total Lift
6-inches
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33x12.50x15
The first guy that came out quoted me $24k for a 20x22 steel building and concrete.

That may have included removing the concrete pad that my Ranger is parked on.

I got a quote today from another company to build a 24x30 building with (2) 10x9 doors, 10-foot walls, a man door, (3) windows, and concrete for $21,250. I didn't tell them there was a concrete slab in the way.
 

sgtsandman

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You live in Texas, Mexicans would be an option...
 

Jim Oaks

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Another company came out today. They do metal roofs and metal buildings. The guy said if it was him, he'd use the building for storage. He said once he starts lifting the roof the walls are going to want to move inward and probably develop more cracks.

I don't mind that I have a 20x70 building on my lot, but I'm just not crazy about adding another building between it and my house.

I had him give me a quote for a 24x30 metal garage. Building with 16x10 door with opener, a 3x3 window and man door is $23,100.

I've been questioning myself on size. This building would be wide enough that I could park my F150 in there with the Ranger and not need a carport. But it's going to eat up some yard space. Wondering if I could get by with less.

I guess since the existing building only has a 7.5' ceiling height I could switch to smaller cars or a side x side. 🤔🤷‍♂️

This guy builds from steel square tubing welded up on site.

Another company says "We construct all of our buildings out of structural Wide-flange beam not an inferior square tubing structure like the competition. Make sure you only build with the "Best"!"

Anyone have any input on materials for metal buildings?
 


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