My New House & Workshop

[snoranger]

Get back in yer hole!

 

[Rick W]

He said once he starts lifting the roof the walls are going to want to move inward and probably develop more cracks.

That makes no sense that me. Although the rafter roof is built into and on top of the block walls, the long span at the bottom of each rafter takes all the outward stress, and the rafters sit down on the walls, no inward or outward pressure. The walls shouldn’t move at all unless you bust them taking the roof off.

Having said that, take a bright flashlight or such and slowly walk the perimeter inside and outside. If the bottom row of block or the first horizontal joint is cracked or the slab is cracked at the wall or any of it out of place, take a pic, that might be an indication of movement in the foundation or wall.

Having said that, if you have a suspect section, you can drive stakes outside, and shoot down plywood or 2x plates inside and run temporary angled supports to stabilize that section of wall during the remodel. We do that with 34’ tilt walls.

I've been questioning myself on size. This building would be wide enough that I could park my F150 in there with the Ranger and not need a carport. But it's going to eat up some yard space. Wondering if I could get by with less.

Whether you put a big metal building there or a small one, the curb appeal, etc. will be the same. Build it the size you want, and in my opinion, in stuff like this, bigger is always better!

& I’m not pushing my design, but I find it hard to imagine it would even run $25k if you do a few, relatively easy things yourself. & on my design, we can change it around a lot for you to get what you want. My first thought was bumping up/out 35-40ft instead of 30 so you get more usable space around both sides of the crapper. Minimal extra expense and work.

On the tubing vs pre-fab I-members, the I-members won’t move unless an act of God takes the whole building. The square tubing can deform in a snow load or if hit by a big wind or branch. Think about it. The purlins and siding makes no difference.

What ever you do, on the framing, I had the idea of framing out a rear door opposite at least one side of the front door for that occasional drive-through need. Minimal during construction, saves a lot if you do it later.

My 2cents, hope it helps

 

[Rick W]

View attachment 58846

Looks like he’s flipping the finger at you!

 

[sgtsandman]

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[1990RangerinSK]

That makes no sense that me. Although the rafter roof is built into and on top of the block walls, the long span at the bottom of each rafter takes all the outward stress, and the rafters sit down on the walls, no inward or outward pressure. The walls shouldn’t move at all unless you bust them taking the roof off.

I can see a few different ways that the walls would fall over if the roof was removed. Wind, cracked mortar where walls meet other walls..... The roof structure may be the only thing holding the building together.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

I can see a few different ways that the walls would fall over if the roof was removed. Wind, cracked mortar where walls meet other walls..... The roof structure may be the only thing holding the building together.

Eh, if the walls wanted to fall over that roof wouldn't do much to hold it up.

 

[Rick W]

Actually, you’re both right, hence the detailed inspection.

 

[franklin2]

Another company came out today. They do metal roofs and metal buildings. The guy said if it was him, he'd use the building for storage. He said once he starts lifting the roof the walls are going to want to move inward and probably develop more cracks.

I don't mind that I have a 20x70 building on my lot, but I'm just not crazy about adding another building between it and my house.

I had him give me a quote for a 24x30 metal garage. Building with 16x10 door with opener, a 3x3 window and man door is $23,100.

I've been questioning myself on size. This building would be wide enough that I could park my F150 in there with the Ranger and not need a carport. But it's going to eat up some yard space. Wondering if I could get by with less.

I guess since the existing building only has a 7.5' ceiling height I could switch to smaller cars or a side x side.

This guy builds from steel square tubing welded up on site.

Another company says "We construct all of our buildings out of structural Wide-flange beam not an inferior square tubing structure like the competition. Make sure you only build with the "Best"!"

Anyone have any input on materials for metal buildings?

Square tubing sounds like one of these with the ends closed in.

 

[Shran]

Always build bigger than you think you need... never settle for smaller. I thought my 30x40 would be fine - now I wish I had torn my shed down and done a 30x50 or x55 instead. Granted I have a bunch of vehicles but I'm feeling pretty cramped.

Yard, schmard. Less to mow.

As far as metal buildings go: lots of carport style garages up here. I don't like them, even a small tree falling on it will crush it... so will a heavy snow load, wind will tear them up pretty easy if they're not anchored down perfectly. The type I like to see is kinda similar to a pole barn... much more sturdy.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Square tubing sounds like one of these with the ends closed in.

They make different styles of them:

Clear Span | tristatecarports

www.tristatecarports.com

 

[Jim Oaks]

Here's photos of a building going up by the guy that quoted me $23k yesterday:

Here's 2 pics from the company that quoted me $21k on facebook messenger:

That second one says "We construct all of our buildings out of structural Wide-flange beam not an inferior square tubing structure like the competition. "

I also got a wordy quote for one of those car port style buildings:

"The information below is an estimate only. Final pricing - including pricing adjustments, discounts, delivery, and taxes - will be provided with final quote prior to purchase. Building Estimate: $11,650.00 Sales Tax (8.25%): $961.13 Total: $12,611.13 Deposit Amount (15%): $1,747.50 Due Upon Delivery: $10,863.63 Structure Details Style: Carport - Installation Surface: Concrete - Roof: Burnished Slate - Trim: Burnished Slate - Siding: Ash Gray* - Base Price: 24‘x30 $3,895.00 Roof Style: Vertical Standard (Best) - Roof Pitch: 3/12 (Standard) - Roof Overhang: None - Gauge: Heavy Duty Frame - Brace: 4' Brace - Leg Height: 12' $570.00 Left Side: Fully Enclosed $525.00 Left Side Siding: Horizontal - Right Side: Fully Enclosed $525.00 Right Side Siding: Horizontal - Front End: Fully Enclosed $1,460.00 Front End Siding: Horizontal - Back End: Fully Enclosed $1,460.00 Back End Siding: Horizontal - Trusses: Standard - Approximate center clearance: 15' - Doors & Ramps Walk-In Door (36x80) $225.00 16'x10' Chain Hoist Rollup Door* $2,595.00 Windows & Accessories 30W x 30H Windows $170.00 Frameouts Corner Style: Square (Traditional) - Corner Style: Square (Traditional) - Additional Options 29 Gauge (Standard) - If a Telescopic Lift is required, customer will provide - Additional Fees Fee for Side Installation $75.00 Side Frameout With Header $150.00 Pricing and options shown are subject to change at any time and may vary based upon current promotions, specials, or annual pricing adjustments. Current pricing will be included in the final quote and will require your review and approval prior to order. We will do all we can to ensure your complete satisfaction. Please contact us for questions, concerns, or custom styles or sizes."

I question the quality and strength of those buildings though.

 

[Rick W]

Top Picture, the top piece across the front looks like a truss, and probably should be, but it is not laid out right. In any truss the open sections should all be triangles. In the picture, if something hits the roof, instead of distributing the load down the angles and spreading it out, it’s going to bend the top tube, shoot the load straight down the vertical piece, and bend the bottom tube. Having said that, it’s easy to modify it into a true truss, but another problem is that trusses have to be supported at the connection points, either the ends, or at the bottom of the W points.

Another thought on the tube frame structures is corrosion. The I-members are usually coded pretty good in the factory so there’s minimal rust overtime. You would have to wire brush, prime and then coat the tubing to get longevity. Doesn’t have to be wet, it will definitely corrode with simple condensation.

Insomnia and I got together and came up with a couple other ideas

If you like either one of these, or if you want to sketch something different, I can figure out the trusses and roof line etc. pretty quickly.

Edit: The wall is angled to minimize the impact on the curb appeal and the yard between the house in the garage. The angle can be played with.

 

[Rick W]

@Jim Oaks

I just resent the original pack of drawings and then I sent these two as a separate email.

 

[franklin2]

Here's photos of a building going up by the guy that quoted me $23k yesterday:

View attachment 58857

Here's 2 pics from the company that quoted me $21k on facebook messenger:

View attachment 58858
View attachment 58859


"The information below is an estimate only. Final pricing - including pricing adjustments, discounts, delivery, and taxes - will be provided with final quote

Those are more like it.

You know people do not like to pay fees to the city or the county, and have to have everything inspected and up to code. Most people feel it's a money racket. But you have to admit, it's handy for them to come out and cry foul when a contractor comes in and builds something the wrong way.

 

[don4331]

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The sudden cut off that the end is when the .223 bullet from my BLR hit that gopher and it ceased to be "general audience".