Multiple Electrical issues

[natcox012]

So Lets start from the top; first thing that happened was alternator and battery were bad died driving got both replaced now the truck only wants to stay running for short amounts of time. ABS light comes on radio goes out then dies randomly. changed pcm fuse had a little spot on fuse light green. any ideas?

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Get your Volt Meter out
Test battery voltage key off, expected is 12.8v for new battery
Start engine
Re-test battery voltage, expected is 14.3 to 14.8volts(engine running)

Just to be clear
You replaced battery and alternator and THEN after you did that the ABS light came on and Radio started acting up?

 

[natcox012]

Yes they came on after a bit of driving testing everything out

 

[SenorNoob]

Replaced electrical parts then new problems? I'd be surprised if it isn't installer error. Loose connection or pinched wire somewere.

RonD is right though. Start there and let us know.

BTW, what's with all the charging system problems this week? This is like the 6th thread I've seen tonight.

 

[natcox012]

I'm Starting to think it's fuse link. Battery light come on but the new battery won't charge above 11.73 but yes after alternator quit along with battery that what is happening?

 

[natcox012]

Where is the fuse link? How do I test it ?

 

[ericbphoto]

I'm Starting to think it's fuse link. Battery light come on but the new battery won't charge above 11.73 but yes after alternator quit along with battery that what is happening?

Stay tuned. @RonD has a long spiel he will paste in here to get you headed in the right direction.

 

[RonD]

2008 does use Fusible links
3 of them in a 4.0l, 2 in a 2.3l Ranger

So lets test voltage at alternator
KEY OFF
Test battery volts, FIRST, so you have a reference voltage

Ground volt meter to Alternator's metal case for all tests

Test voltage on the B+ terminal, the bigger wire, back of alternator, stud/nut terminal, should be Battery Volts EXACTLY
If not 1 fusible link is bad, and that effects the next test

Unplug the 2 or 3 wire Voltage regulator plug on the alternator
Test the Red wire(2008), should be battery volts EXACTLY, if not, and B+ was battery volts, then a different fusible link is bad

Test Gray wire(2008), should be 0 volts
Turn on key
Gray wire should now be close to battery volts, this one doesn't have to be exact

And that's it

If these 3 wires test OK then plug back in the connector and start engine
Test battery voltage again
Should be 14volt or higher, if not alternator is bad, PERIOD, don't care if "it tests OK" at parts store, or if its the 3rd "new" alternator, its bad if the 3 wires were good


Fusible links are INSIDE wiring harness wrapped up usually

Look at engine fuse box, should see TWO red wires going into it, one is from a battery positive terminal, the OTHER Red wire goes to the fusible link in the wiring harness so start to unwrap it at that end
When you find it there will be a SPLICE with 1 or 2 other fusible links

Diagram below

 

[natcox012]

Got 9.12 at red wire on alternator

 

[RonD]

And Battery Voltage was higher?

And this is the smaller Red wire on the 3 wire plugin?
Not the B+ red wire

If so then corroded or failing connection in the harness

What was B+ Voltage?

 

[natcox012]

On the wire that the nut is on. And yes battery was higher

 

[natcox012]

Red wire from one of the nuts on fuse box was corroded through gonna splice see if that fixes it.

 

[natcox012]

Fixed wire read same as battery on alternator but doesn't bump up when running to 14.7 only get 12.14

 

[RonD]

B+ and the RED wire(on 3 wire connector) both read Battery Volts, key OFF, correct?

Does the Battery Light on the dash come on with key on, and stay on when engine is off?
If not check Fuse #9 in cab fuse box, 5amp, swap it with another 5amp fuse in the box if your not sure

Battery Light is the ON/OFF switch for alternator

And that's the Grey wire on the 3 wire connector on alternator, that wire should have 12volts with key on, 0 volts key off