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Going back in.... last time i hope..

Shadowridr1

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Video doesn't help. With the valve cover on and your camera in your pocket, can you tell where the clicking comes from? Ask your daughter to help -- again, listening, not shooting videos, then render her opinion of where the sound comes from. A mechanics stethoscope can help too: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52500-Mechanics-Stethoscope/dp/B0002SQYSM
Clicking is coming from inside the valve cover. It's very dominant at the #1 & #2, using a stethoscope on the exhaust manifold, more noticeable at #1 & #2 that #3 on the valve cover. All bolts are tight, no slack that I can find in the pushrods or rockers. Camera is in the pocket...
 


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pjtoledo

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are any of the rockers NOT spitting any oil, or very little oil at the upper tabs?
the oil travels thru the lifter, up thru the pushrod, then squirts thru a hole under those tabs.
that may help isolate which assembly is ticking.
you can also put the stethoscope probe directly on the bolt securing the rocker arm.
you can also remove the probe and add more tubing which can be moved around to isolate the noise.


lifters work in a way that they fill with oil to become stiff, and at the same time the springs put enough pressure on the lifter
to squeeze oil out. if there is an oil pressure issue on a specific lifter it may not refill faster than the springs squeeze it out. that results in a soft lifter.
 
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Shadowridr1

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are any of the rockers NOT spitting any oil, or very little oil at the upper tabs?
the oil travels thru the lifter, up thru the pushrod, then squirts thru a hole under those tabs.
that may help isolate which assembly is ticking.
you can also put the stethoscope probe directly on the bolt securing the rocker arm.
you can also remove the probe and add more tubing which can be moved around to isolate the noise.


lifters work in a way that they fill with oil to become stiff, and at the same time the springs put enough pressure on the lifter
to squeeze oil out. if there is an oil pressure issue on a specific lifter it may not refill faster than the springs squeeze it out. that results in a soft lifter.
I'll have to check when I get back. Gotta get to work.....
 

Shadowridr1

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Did a drive on it today. I pulled the rockers, pushrods on bank 1 and checked everything over. Put them back in each in a different spot. Still got the ticking. Decided to take it on a drive, about 75 miles of both highway and back roads. Got almost home and got a CEL. Looked at my PIDs this is what I see
69052
 

Shadowridr1

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Shadowridr1

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MC17ELN
Can you do me a favor, idk what your setup is on your ranger, but mine is stock tires, 5 speed with an 8.8 axle. Yesterday I was running 75 and my rpm was 2800. Can you maybe do that with your truck? It just seemed high, but then again that's the first time I've driven it that speed in a few months so I might just be over sensitive to it
 

Shadowridr1

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If you have 4.10 rear axle, 29" tires then at 75MPH in 5th gear RPMs would be 2,850

calculator here: https://spicerparts.com/calculators/engine-rpm-calculator

plug in your numbers
Ok dumb question here..... actually Ron I'm going to ask 2 dumb questions.
1. Where can I find the axle ratio?
2. Completely different area, BUT I noticed my cps sensor is pointing almost straight back, I guess I didn't get the hold down screw seated all the way, now I gotta redo the timing. AS OF NOW, I'm on tdc compression, TDC timing mark on balancer is in line with tab. Question is... cause I've seen it written both ways, does the tdc mark on the balancer line up with the tab OR does the 10° mark line up with the tab???? I know I'm going to have to pull the synchronizer so I want to get it right for certain....
 

RonD

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Look on driver's door rear edge for the Build Label, then at the bottom under AXLE will be a Code Number

Go here to see what the code number means: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/axle_codes.shtml

Have a read here for the CPS: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/camshaft_position_sensor.shtml

You will get a code of P034"x" if cam sensor is too far off of crank sensor's TDC
Crank sensor is not adjustable so cam sensor is adjusted to be withing a few degrees of crank sensor, the computer can then do the fine tuning for best injector and spark timing
If you are not getting a P034x code then cam sensor is OK where it is


Ranger Cam sensors were changed from 3 wire(1998 and earlier) to 2 wire in 1999 and up, totally different sensors so not just 1 less wire, lol
Mentioning this because they look different inside as well when lining up the "tabs" without the tool
 
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Shadowridr1

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Look on driver's door rear edge for the Build Label, then at the bottom under AXLE will be a Code Number

Go here to see what the code number means: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/axle_codes.shtml

Have a read here for the CPS: https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/camshaft_position_sensor.shtml

You will get a code of P034"x" if cam sensor is too far off of crank sensor's TDC
Crank sensor is not adjustable so cam sensor is adjusted to be withing a few degrees of crank sensor, the computer can then do the fine tuning for best injector and spark timing
If you are not getting a P034x code then cam sensor is OK where it is


Ranger Cam sensors were changed from 3 wire(1998 and earlier) to 2 wire in 1999 and up, totally different sensors so not just 1 less wire, lol
Mentioning this because they look different inside as well when lining up the "tabs" without the tool
I was getting the
p0340-cand a p1336-p. I pulled it and adjusted it correctly with the balancer mark at 0. This actually helped the ticking noise I've been experiencing. Did not make it go away, but now it's at 2500k rpm and up only, were as before it was also at 2k rpm. It's not identical to engine rpm so I'm not sure wtf this is that's happening.... Axle code is 97 so it's an open 8.8 with 4.10 gears so I guess 2800 or so rpm is right. Thanks Ron.
If you have any ideas about this noise I'm all ears. The noise is only at 2500rpm and up irregardless if I'm driving or revving the engine sitting still. There is NO engine performance issues at all.
 

RonD

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When engine is stone cold, remove fan belt from crank pulley and start engine

Battery light will stay on, no alternator
REV engine and see if tick is gone, if so then noise is from accessory pulley/bearing
If noise is still there then with no fan noise you should be able to locate it better

You can ONLY run the COLD engine for a short time with no water pump, under 2 minutes for sure, the shorter time the better
But you can repeat this test any time engine is stone cold again, so if its an engine noise then locate the general area, so you know where to look more closely the next time
You will be surprised how quiet the engine bay is with no fan belt, lol
 

Shadowridr1

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When engine is stone cold, remove fan belt from crank pulley and start engine

Battery light will stay on, no alternator
REV engine and see if tick is gone, if so then noise is from accessory pulley/bearing
If noise is still there then with no fan noise you should be able to locate it better

You can ONLY run the COLD engine for a short time with no water pump, under 2 minutes for sure, the shorter time the better
But you can repeat this test any time engine is stone cold again, so if its an engine noise then locate the general area, so you know where to look more closely the next time
You will be surprised how quiet the engine bay is with no fan belt, lol
I forgot to mention that I did this. First with the fan off then with the belt off. I didn't hear the noise, but I also might have been a little gun shy. I will do this again when I get back from work.
 

Shadowridr1

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2WD
When engine is stone cold, remove fan belt from crank pulley and start engine

Battery light will stay on, no alternator
REV engine and see if tick is gone, if so then noise is from accessory pulley/bearing
If noise is still there then with no fan noise you should be able to locate it better

You can ONLY run the COLD engine for a short time with no water pump, under 2 minutes for sure, the shorter time the better
But you can repeat this test any time engine is stone cold again, so if its an engine noise then locate the general area, so you know where to look more closely the next time
You will be surprised how quiet the engine bay is with no fan belt, lol
No BELT NO noise... revved it up and held it at 2500, 3000, 3500 then revved it up to 5k and held it for a couple seconds. No noise at all. All my pulleys turn free and I can't hear any hard grinding. The power steering pump pulley has some slack in it, the idler pulley has a little noise. Nothing I would say is abnormal, the tensioner is the same as the idler. Alternator has a little noise but again I wouldn't say abnormal. Waterpump has no noise, ac pulley has no noise. Here's a video turning the pulleys. I'm thinking the idler pulley could use a replacement and the tensioner as well since they have the tendency to make havoc. However, could this be the water pump making this happen? When I first got the truck home I did a flush on the cooling system and what was in there looked like dirty water.... could have been the orange stuff but I'm wondering if the PO just ran straight water. My system is not clogged, and it don't get hot, but I'm wondering if the propeller is trashed
 

Burnsy

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Power steering is supposed to have a little play backward and forward.....you say the pulleys TURN freely but what about grabbing/holding them and trying to move them up and down, sideways etc feeling for 'play' in the bearing of said pulley
 

Burnsy

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To check water pump bearing(with belt off) you can grab an upper fan blade or two and gently pull/release etc lookIng and feeling for if the fan apparatus wobbles any
 

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