Going back in.... last time i hope..

[Shadowridr1]

All parts ordered finally came in yesterday. Tearing back into it to replace the lifters, pushrods, bridges and injectors. Wish me luck cause I'm getting tired of JACKING with the MANGER. I've had this thing since April and in the last month and a half have put roughly $1200 into this purchased for $3000 truck. I thought only JEEP stood for "just empty every pocket"...... but if it's good then the only thing left to go wrong would be pistons, timing chain, water pump or crank cause everything else is new...
My understand here is to use assembly lube on the lifters and all metal to metal contact points, load lifters with torque specs from rockers, fill lifters with oil best I can, prime by turning through cycle a few times by hand, check everything then start putting it back together, correct.....

 

[Jazzer]

I know it’s been frustrating, but $4200 isn’t that much considering you’re going to make it run like a top….

-Jazzer

 

[RonD]

Yes, use assembly lube if engine will be sitting more than a week without being run, if its just a weekend build/repair then oil is fine to use
Assembly lube is used to protect parts from rusting and stays around for a few months where oil can run off parts after a week or two, leaving them "dry"

Put new lifters in a pan of oil, lay them down and cover with oil in shallow pan, for a few hours

When you are ready to start engine disconnect coil pack or fuel pump relay(so No Start) and crank engine over for 5 seconds(count to 5) 3 or 4 times

That will pump oil thru all the passages................so don't forget the oil and oil filter, lol

 

[Shadowridr1]

Yes, use assembly lube if engine will be sitting more than a week without being run, if its just a weekend build/repair then oil is fine to use
Assembly lube is used to protect parts from rusting and stays around for a few months where oil can run off parts after a week or two, leaving them "dry"

Put new lifters in a pan of oil, lay them down and cover with oil in shallow pan, for a few hours

When you are ready to start engine disconnect coil pack or fuel pump relay(so No Start) and crank engine over for 5 seconds(count to 5) 3 or 4 times

That will pump oil thru all the passages................so don't forget the oil and oil filter, lol

Well the lifters are in and the cam profile looked great. No wear marks on anything. I did have an issue getting a pushrod out of a lifter on Bank 1 cyl 3 exhaust stroke. It was like stuck in the lifter a little. Also the intake port on this cyl on the lower intake was black. I suspect the lifter was collapse exhaust side and this was cause the popping issue. ALSO, the new pushrods are just a rats asshair longer than the old ones, this should eliminate the ticking. I think it was just worn-out and I didn't do what I should have done to start with.

 

[Shadowridr1]

Ron, I have a question for you too. I have the composite plenum, so no egr valve, but I figured out that I have an egr solenoid mounted on the fender. However, taking the part number off the old one to buy a new one, they look no where the same. Any thoughts?? I found one on ebay said it's for a 95 2.5l 4cyl though.

 

[RonD]

Ranger 3.0l or B3000 did not have an EGR valve in 2003, so it also won't have an EGR solenoid

What you are looking at is most likely the EVAP systems Purge Valve

These part numbers are for 1998-2003 Purge Valves: F87E9C915BB, F87Z9C915B, F87Z9C915BA
Not EGR solenoids

Picture in the lower right above is an EGR solenoid, but you wouldn't/shouldn't have one of those on the engine

 

[Shadowridr1]

I would think so either. But I literally took the part number off the one on my truck pp-gf30, looked it up and that's what it came up as a egr solenoid. I mean if you take the round part off the back of the old one it looks like the new one.

 

[RonD]

Yes, they both do similar job, allow air/vacuum to pass between the 2 hoses when activated

 

[mc17eln]

It took me 3 months (part time) for a complete tear down to the crankshaft then build it back up, but yesterday I got my 2002 Ranger 3.0L running. I spent roughly $1200 too. @Shadowridr1 Keep going and good luck.

 

[Shadowridr1]

Ok so before I completely BLOW A GASKET. I finished putting the truck back together this morning. I started it let it run for about 10 seconds and turned it off. It sounded great. So I connected my OBD2 and started it back up. I instantly go bank 1 and 2 stuck rich. Looked at live data and getting NO READING from the new injectors. Switched over to forscan and began running tests. It showed readings for the injectors on LTFT but not STFT and O2 sensors pegged out at .9 also showed faulty IAC. The idle was bouncing from mid 700 to low 300 then back up. Had a fault where the fuel system went from closed to open loop...IDK WTF is going on.

 

[RonD]

Not quite following

For the first few minutes of warm up computer is in Choke Mode, rich mix
When coolant temp(ECT) gets to about 140degF, computer will back off the choke and test if Upstream O2 sensors are warmed up enough to "see" oxygen, switching voltages fast
If so then it will go to Closed Loop

The 2 things the computer has no sensors for so "assumes", is fuel pressure and injector size/flow
Those two things are "hardwired" into air/fuel mix calculations, as well as engine size

 

[Shadowridr1]

Not quite following

For the first few minutes of warm up computer is in Choke Mode, rich mix
When coolant temp(ECT) gets to about 140degF, computer will back off the choke and test if Upstream O2 sensors are warmed up enough to "see" oxygen, switching voltages fast
If so then it will go to Closed Loop

The 2 things the computer has no sensors for so "assumes", is fuel pressure and injector size/flow
Those two things are "hardwired" into air/fuel mix calculations, as well as engine size

Ron I trust everything you say. So here is what I've got. Engine is up to temp. Dtc p1000 and p0505. The idle is very irratic. Lots of white/grayish smoke from the tailpipe for a few then clears up. It WILL DIE if I don't give it gas to keep rpm up. I swapped out the IAC and nothing changed. Unplugged the MAF and idle shot up, then leveled out. Plugged it back in and took a second but went back to rough idle. MAF is .67 per min. Baro is showing 27.5, upper rad hose has no pressure, but coolant temp is showing 185 on the obd (always has this issue but still odd). LTFT's are showing 0, STFT's are showing -27. Fuel system has a CL fault. No CEL, no injector fault..... tell me what to do... you want video, screen record of forscan (what specifically) if so, live data from torque pro.... want me to put the old injectors back in???

 

[Shadowridr1]

BTW it's 41° here, I have NO IDEA if this truck is cold natured, or if that is playing a role in any of this

 

[Shadowridr1]

ALSO btw. Fuel pressure is OUTSTANDING. Don't ever forget to reconnect it. Shot a stream of gas about 10' the size of a #2 pencil

 

[RonD]

Fuel pressure needs to be 60psi, higher will give you RICH running, fuel pump is capable of 80+psi

Whats the part number of new injectors?
They need to be rated 14 to 19 lb/hr
higher will give you RICH running

Unplugging the MAF sensor puts computer in Open Loop(ignores O2s) so it bases air/fuel mix off tables in memory, no "on the fly" calculations

Unplug IAC valve as well as MAF(after warm up) and see if you can hold a steady idle with gas pedal, or throttle
Varying idle with IAC Valve plugged in can mean computer was varying the idle, if unplugged then computer was just trying to RESPOND to varying idle caused by something else