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Going back in.... last time i hope..

Shadowridr1

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Fuel pressure needs to be 60psi, higher will give you RICH running, fuel pump is capable of 80+psi

Whats the part number of new injectors?
They need to be rated 14 to 19 lb/hr
higher will give you RICH running

Unplugging the MAF sensor puts computer in Open Loop(ignores O2s) so it bases air/fuel mix off tables in memory, no "on the fly" calculations

Unplug IAC valve as well as MAF(after warm up) and see if you can hold a steady idle with gas pedal, or throttle
Varying idle with IAC Valve plugged in can mean computer was varying the idle, if unplugged then computer was just trying to RESPOND to varying idle caused by something else
 

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Shadowridr1

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Shadowridr1

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I put the old IAC back on and the old injectors back in.
 

RonD

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And.....................
 

Shadowridr1

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And.....................
That's what the videos are, after I put the old ones back in. Not any good. No better except I have com with my injectors. Misfiring, idle is rough but will stay running. Gas smell is pretty strong
 

Shadowridr1

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1f1z9f593da injector number of the new ones I got. Says they are for my truck. But not the same number as the Ford injectors I took out and put back in
 

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Well that's all I got for over rich , lol

Fuel pressure
Injector size
OR computer

MAF sensor just measures air weight, computer already knows air flow in a 3 liter engine at any RPM
And computer should set a code if MAF was reporting super heavy air, out of range
MAF data can be set for grams/second, at 500rpms it should be 3gr/sec(engine displacement in liters), so at 1,000 6gr/sec +/-0.5, at sea level to 2,000ft elevation, air gets lighter with elevation

MAF and throttle sensor are compared as well, a double check, so code would be set if either didn't "jibe" with the other, i.e if throttle is open 30% then MAF gr/sec should be in this weight range at this RPM

Air temp doesn't effect fuel trims that much, -10 to +10 at the outside, once engine is warmed up the air temp is pretty stable, and again computer would set code if air temp was way out of range

Its a puzzler for sure
 

mc17eln

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In another thread, you asked about rocker arms, but you didn't mention touching the cylinder valves, pistons and rings. If not, have you done compression test?
 

Shadowridr1

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In another thread, you asked about rocker arms, but you didn't mention touching the cylinder valves, pistons and rings. If not, have you done compression test?
 

Shadowridr1

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In another thread, you asked about rocker arms, but you didn't mention touching the cylinder valves, pistons and rings. If not, have you done compression test?
The engine is basically new from the Cam up. I'm kinda like a mechanics wet dream....I pretty much believe that if something low is screwed up you replace damn near everything in-between. I was hellbent on rocker arms cause, to me, it's asinine to replace lifters, pushrods and bridges without putting in new rockers. It was hard to put new lifters on an old cam, but there was literally no marks or anything on the old lifters. The compression test with the old heads was 155, 150,150,140,90,145
New heads after startup and having issues of tapping, cause I didn't change lifters the first time, my dumb fault cause I started to but didn't, 165, 165,160,170,175,160.
NOW I kinda back to where I originally was, rough idle, gas odor, misfire.... makes me feel like everything I've done was for nothing. No vacuum leaks, good spark, little hard to start, won't key bump start is what I mean here, black sut on the ground at tailpipe, possibly from running rich, also a cream colored substance on the inside of the oil cap. NOT IN THE FILL NECK though, don't look fresh so might be from previous or from me maybe getting some coolant in the oil. I need to change the oil, and put the new plugs in, and I'm thinking either clean (AGAIN) or buy a new MAF. I don't think it should read 27 baro at idle...
 

mc17eln

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I would double check camshaft synchronizer. The TDC mark (not necessarily the 0 degree mark) on the harmonic balancer may be hard to find, but a good clean and a bright light should spot it. It should be at the 6th tooth to the left from the missing tooth of the balancer -- to be aligned with the arrow on the timing chain cover at the right side of the black crank position sensor.

With everything on, you need to use a compression test gauge to confirm compression cycle TDC alignment. Then remove the camshaft synchronizer sensor. The inside arm should be at dead center of the outside opening. The angle where that opening/sensor/install_tool pointing at is actually not important.

I reused my original injectors after testing each one with a test kit and a can of brake fluid spray. You seem to have cover everything else, so I assume all three O2 sensors are new :)?
 

Shadowridr1

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I would double check camshaft synchronizer. The TDC mark (not necessarily the 0 degree mark) on the harmonic balancer may be hard to find, but a good clean and a bright light should spot it. It should be at the 6th tooth to the left from the missing tooth of the balancer -- to be aligned with the arrow on the timing chain cover at the right side of the black crank position sensor.

With everything on, you need to use a compression test gauge to confirm compression cycle TDC alignment. Then remove the camshaft synchronizer sensor. The inside arm should be at dead center of the outside opening. The angle where that opening/sensor/install_tool pointing at is actually not important.

I reused my original injectors after testing each one with a test kit and a can of brake fluid spray. You seem to have cover everything else, so I assume all three O2 sensors are new :)?
Ok, so the 0 mark on the balancer is lined up with the tab on the timing cover. The 6th tooth from the gap is just barely to the right of the crank sensor. So at this point the little tit on the synchronizer should be where?? I'm assuming at the back and pretty much pointing at the hold down bolt for the synchronizer?
 

Shadowridr1

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How do I use a compression gauge to test alignment of TDC? I mean when I had the heads off I brought #1 to the top and both lifters were down. I marked the balancer. When I put it back together I thought I was off so I cleaned the balancer really well and was able to see the timing marks on it. MY MARK was actually off a few degrees btdc, so I put it at 0 and pulled the synchronizer and restabbed it, with the tit basically pointing at the hold down bolt., which is roughly 15° off center. I have not looked at it again.
 

Shadowridr1

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And yes the o2 sensors are new. I have not put in the new downstream yet though.....I guess I should probably do that...All 3 are bosch...
 

pjtoledo

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"general info stuff", not really directed at anybody.
on 3.0s you can see the piston at TDC thru the spark plug hole.
using a long thin screwdriver and working the crank back & forth a few times it's easy to establish
TDC to within a couple degrees.
during the compression stroke it will push your finger off the plug hole.
this all sounds crude, but it's adequate to get an engine running.

Shadow, have you verified the 5 volt supply that several sensors use?
do you by chance have an IR thermometer? you can point them at individual exhaust ports to see if 1 isn't firing.
 

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