bucko
New Member
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2014
- Messages
- 80
- Reaction score
- 1
- Points
- 0
- Vehicle Year
- 2000
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Transmission
- Automatic
Geez, for such easy access, these front shocks were a pain. I bought a 2000 Ranger 4x4 with 214K a few weeks ago. I noticed after giving it a good check in the garage that the rear shocks were fairly new, but the fronts were the originals; obviously way past there prime with 14 years and 214K miles on them.
So, jacked the front left, removed the rim/tire, and the small rubber splash piece to gain easier access to the shocks top nut. Here was the fun....
The shock towers threaded rod was rusted, and the threads were in poor shape; still there, but poor. I sprayed PB blaster on the threads, waited 20 minutes, sprayed again, then began the nut removal. Grasping the lower welded nut with a large pair of vise gripes to keep the shock from turning, I placed the closed end of the wrench on that upper nut. I figured a few raps of a hammer against the wrench would do it. I ended up continuously having to wack the wrench, turning the nut by quarter to half turns each time. After getting the nut within a half inch from the top of the threaded rod, it twisted completely off, breaking the threaded rod with the nut still attached. No harm, no foul, as I got the nut part off, and was able to callapse the shock downward to remove the shock from its upper pearch. This happened on the front right shock as well. The lower two nuts holding the lower part of the shock came off with ease.
New shocks in, and figure I won't be doing this job again for another 200K or 3 to 4 years!
So, jacked the front left, removed the rim/tire, and the small rubber splash piece to gain easier access to the shocks top nut. Here was the fun....
The shock towers threaded rod was rusted, and the threads were in poor shape; still there, but poor. I sprayed PB blaster on the threads, waited 20 minutes, sprayed again, then began the nut removal. Grasping the lower welded nut with a large pair of vise gripes to keep the shock from turning, I placed the closed end of the wrench on that upper nut. I figured a few raps of a hammer against the wrench would do it. I ended up continuously having to wack the wrench, turning the nut by quarter to half turns each time. After getting the nut within a half inch from the top of the threaded rod, it twisted completely off, breaking the threaded rod with the nut still attached. No harm, no foul, as I got the nut part off, and was able to callapse the shock downward to remove the shock from its upper pearch. This happened on the front right shock as well. The lower two nuts holding the lower part of the shock came off with ease.
New shocks in, and figure I won't be doing this job again for another 200K or 3 to 4 years!
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