Ford 300


CreepyCrawler

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Howdy fellas. I’m picking up a running 300i6 this weekend and am wondering what the best or along the lines of the best build would be for a low-medium hp but high trq inliner. The motor I’m purchasing is a 91 efi 300i6. I know I want to cam it but not sure what is best bang for buck and which will draw most low end out of motor. I’ve heard there are forged crankshafts in some of these motors... how to identify or easier just to buy a forged rotating assembly? Is it worth boring the block out to accommodate FE sized pistons? Which rockers with cam combo. Suggested valves? I’ve also heard of people going back to carb from efi... is there a larger gain in performance with lout the egr setup?

This motor is going into my ranger and space as well as more crossmembers will be accommodated for higher trq.

The ranger it’s going in will be a trail rig/crawler. I would like to be able to turn lower rpm’s with as much trq output as possible as my overall crawl ratio will be somewhere around 300:1

Any motor builders familiar with this powerblock feel free to give advice haha I’ve searched several threads on other sites but the builds I’ve read through only max at about 300ft/lbs. I would like to be somewhere in the 350-400 range before considering FI. Appreciate it
 
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85_Ranger4x4

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Carbed trail rig/crawler?

I would go 351W if you think you need that much torque.
 

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Too much motor and money to build it for what I’m doing with the truck. Why spend 4K on a v8 when I can throw 1-2.5k at my 300 and put out the same trq
 

85_Ranger4x4

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A late model W is 350lb-ft out of the box without touching a thing. EFI so it will run on its side if you want (your '91 300 would be EFI too though)

I don't mean to crap all over your idea just throwing that out there. A V8 would be easier to fit in a short Ranger engine bay.
 
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BlackBII

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I can't help on the 300 specifically, but you will need to move more air to make more torque. At low RPM's, this isn't the easiest thing to do. Have you considered a small turbo along with a different cam? That would help with the lower end. It would run out of steam quickly, but if you tune it for 1-3.5k RPM it would make for a great crawler.

The 300 is quite long. There are some pictures in this thread, along with some arguing from internet tough guys. LINK

Another with more pics of the fitment. You will likely need to cut out your radiator support all together and move it into the grill. LINK
 
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CreepyCrawler

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I’ve got a couple sbf laying around. Trust me I’ve considered the v8 swap. But I just wanted to make it an inliner. It was either a 4bt or or the 300 and decided to stick to gas as well as keep the train all ford... except tcase. Haven’t decid d yet on Atlas or 203/205 with lomax. And yes as for fitting it the grill support will be cut. Thinking about cutting out entire middle section of firewall and moving everything further into cab and drivetrain back. Radiator will be mounted in back seat or behind cab
 
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CreepyCrawler

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And yes I would probably turbo the motor
 

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Howdy fellas. I’m picking up a running 300i6 this weekend and am wondering what the best or along the lines of the best build would be for a low-medium hp but high trq inliner.

dude....really?? i mean fuking REALLY!!???!!

it is already the best of the best of the best for that goal...it is done.



The motor I’m purchasing is a 91 efi 300i6. I know I want to cam it but not sure what is best bang for buck and which will draw most low end out of motor. I’ve heard there are forged crankshafts in some of these motors... how to identify or easier just to buy a forged rotating assembly? Is it worth boring the block out to accommodate FE sized pistons? Which rockers with cam combo. Suggested valves? I’ve also heard of people going back to carb from efi... is there a larger gain in performance with lout the egr setup?

This motor is going into my ranger and space as well as more crossmembers will be accommodated for higher trq.

the ranger will need no frame mods for one of these turds unless you boost it with a turbo....and that power level done reliably will be a huge expense.



The ranger it’s going in will be a trail rig/crawler. I would like to be able to turn lower rpm’s with as much trq output as possible as my overall crawl ratio will be somewhere around 300:1



are you going to be running 5 ton merritor axles and monster truck tires???? 300 to 1 could get away with a briggs and stratton lawn tractor engine and still blow dana 60 shit to hell. in this case a stock 300 6 in any flavor carb or efi would be just peachy....






Any motor builders familiar with this powerblock feel free to give advice haha I’ve searched several threads on other sites but the builds I’ve read through only max at about 300ft/lbs. I would like to be somewhere in the 350-400 range before considering FI. Appreciate it

not reading this well... but i know what it takes to build a street stock 300-6 champ that competed at flatrock speedway in the past that was besting 351's and cheap is not any part of that scenario.

not even close...
Too much motor and money to build it for what I’m doing with the truck. Why spend 4K on a v8 when I can throw 1-2.5k at my 300 and put out the same trq
so ...for 5 grand i can fresh build a 500 hp 500 ft pound 351.....your saying for 5 grand you can build a 500 hp ....well 400 hp 650 ft 300 6....? 300 would have to be turbo...351 is n/a. just saying for anybody that has to ask these questions... equal money verse value....


regardless, you can buy the engines used with the same miles for 3-600 bux with a trans on them and 1200 into the 351 will still net more power RELIABLY then 1200 into the 300. with a much larger power range. i am assuming of course you want your off road adventure vehicle to be reliable....could be wrong here...

I’ve got a couple sbf laying around. Trust me I’ve considered the v8 swap. But I just wanted to make it an inliner. It was either a 4bt or or the 300 and decided to stick to gas as well as keep the train all ford... except tcase. Haven’t decid d yet on Atlas or 203/205 with lomax. And yes as for fitting it the grill support will be cut. Thinking about cutting out entire middle section of firewall and moving everything further into cab and drivetrain back. Radiator will be mounted in back seat or behind cab
And yes I would probably turbo the motor
so you just want to be different....cool. nothing wrong with that;...

turbo, 8 psi.


cut the efi intake and mod it.


it will fit without firewall mods with a modified intake, turbo will make up for cutting and boxing the intake which kills the torque range by allowing easy fitment. but the turbo plumbing takes up the rest of the space:icon_rofl:

and it is still a pos. but shiny! with complicated tuning. but it will be a axle destroying monster from hell....and much faster. you sure as fawk wont need 300 to 1.



thats one way...and not cheap if you want it RELIABLE.



a carb version of the 300 fits easily compared to the current engine in my truck. i essentially have a big block and it fits just fine with straight axles...


a good 390 cfm 4bbl off road prepped with offy intake and decent header would be pretty good and way way less work.. not sure which cam i would want ... there is a shitload of them...pick your overall parts that get you to 300-1 and call the cam manufacturer with your goals and weight and gearing information...


but a propane mixer with a 500 cfm carb would be the easy button. deck the head and block for compression bump and just run propane with older offy setup.


this is a good way to go for what you mentioned. i would consult with comp cams extensively after i compression checked the engine hot, and looked at the bottom end to make sure it was solid. not sure i would go with the harland sharp stuff and a bunch of head work. i think you would be happy with a matched to propane cam and resulting compression ratio.


anybody that adds power to a ranger with more cubic inches because the engine area is increased heating the coolant and does not open up the core for a larger area is not thinking clearly, so that is a goes without saying. and your willing to mod the core accordingly so you have that.


so.

the efi engine is the best stock solution. by miles. but requires large work to fit. the torque range is solid and it runs pretty clean. it really is all you need with 300 to 1.....like double what you need.


a 390 4 bbl with proper cam and cleaned up and matched exhaust and intake will match the stock efi engine closely, much easier to fit...and with the stroke of the 300 will be "useable" off road with a proper spring loaded float setup and overflow bridge. will need to use all of the ignition upgrades and plug range.

this is not cheap but in your price range mentioned for upgrades.


solid propane setup on modern block/head setup with compression bump, again with a carefully matched cam will be great off road.

again...not really cheap...your deep into 351 territory but will work ok with minimal fitment issues.



me, i would just run the 300 stock with your goals. its a trail truck so modding the firewall for best balance is a non issue.


buy it.....do it....just drop it in there and get it awn.
 
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rusty ol ranger

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Bobbys right, a stock 300 will do what your wanting just fine. The EFI motors are harder to build and theres very little aftermarket. The 300 came with 265ftlb@2000rpm in EFI dress. With a 300:1 ratio...good god son, you could climb the empire state building.....at idle.

That being said, only the "HD" version of the 300 had a forged crank, as well as better flowing exhaust manifolds, however i dont believe the HD version ever came with EFI, and it was generally used in applications such as dump trucks/busses (Up to 30000 GVW), forklifts, UPS trucks, etc. The one your getting is more then likely your garden variety 300. However, they are still plenty stout.

Try this site...

www.fordsix.com
 

CreepyCrawler

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Thanks for the info y’all. I’m leaning towards the idea of a simple cam, exhaust matchup and carb’d now. If the efi dress is truly that hard make fit it would only make sense. And yes idling up the Empire State Building or pulling it down at idle is the “plan” essentially ��
 

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The best exhaust option on a carbed 300 is factory EFI 300 manifolds. They are split (3 and 3) and flow better then aftermarket singles for the carbed motors. However, if you can find a manifold off a HD 300 they flow even better yet.

Id reccomend going with an offy 4bbl intake and a holley 390 4bbl. Not sure how itll do on serious angles though, unless you can grab a truck avenger and jet it way down.

The factory Carter YFA 1bbls are fussy as hell and flow about like a lawn mower carb.

The EFI on a 300 wouldnt be any harder to wire then any other EFI, but, unless you swapped it over to a 96 (95/96 in cali) MAF setup, the factory MAP systems (87-95, 94 in cali) dont really respond well to modification.
 


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