Finding an axel with a limited slip differential

[Lefty]

Some simple advice please. I've got a plain Jane 373 2WD rear axel on my 2003 3.0 Ford Ranger Edge. I don't haul anything heavy or tow a trailer.

It seems 410 or 383 is better, but I don't mind. I'm just wanting anything with a Limited Slip. Would just any rear axel off a 4x4 Ranger fit?

 

[RonD]

Yes, 1993 to 2009 2WD or 4x4 Ranger or Mazda B-series rear axle will be plug and play
2010/11 as well but they will cost more as they had disc brakes

The 1993-2009 can be 7.5" or 8.8" and have limited slip, either will work as plug and play
Rangers came with 9" rear brakes or 10", so if you get a used axle then get it COMPLETE with rear drums
Hoping you will budget to do the rear brakes on any "new axle", lol

car-part.com is a good place to search local wrecking yards, and you can select L/S limited slip and axle ratios for the search

 

[Lefty]

Oh very good! I went out to the pull yard yesterday and looked at an XLT 4.0 liter. Knowing something about door codes I looked there first, BUT the sticker was gone! The driver's side must have been damaged at one point in its history. Rather than crawl in the mud and look on the pumpkin, I thought it would be easier to come back here and ask. I looked at 15 other Rangers this week. All of them 2WD.

While Ford made so many options, it seems like so many customers had once chosen to get just the basic model.

 

[racsan]

Its not a bad idea to replace the axle seals on a used axle assembly too.

 

[Lefty]

Good idea on axel seals. Thanks.

 

[Lefty]

As you might guess, This whole idea pushes the envelope of my skill set. But I'm going to take a closer look at installing disc brakes. I've got the whole summer to do this. I'm hoping to lift off the tub and redo everything including paint.

 

[ericbphoto]

As you might guess, This whole idea pushes the envelope of my skill set. But I'm going to take a closer look at installing disc brakes. I've got the whole summer to do this. I'm hoping to lift off the tub and redo everything including paint.

Take your time. Read through the tech articles, search our forums and dontbe afraid to ask questions.

 

[dirtymike]

Disc brakes on the rear would be so nice, maintenance time, cost and the ability to see what the condition is all the time. All good

 

[Lefty]

Take your time. Read through the tech articles, search our forums and dontbe afraid to ask questions.

I gotta say that people have been very courteous here, very helpful too. The advice has been rock solid and the tech articles very clear. And I still love your truck!

 

[RonD]

Yes, 4x4s are more likely to have L/S, but it was still a pay extra option for just the L/S or for the Package that added L/S

 

[ericbphoto]

I gotta say that people have been very courteous here, very helpful too. The advice has been rock solid and the tech articles very clear. And I still love your truck!

Thank you.

 

[Lefty]

Well, okay. Don't I need a special pair of pliers to pull those pins out of the U joint just in front of the differential? What is it called? What do I look for?

 

[ericbphoto]

The u-joint unbolts from the pinion flange.

Very few tools needed for a complete axle swap. Take pictures each step as you remove the old one so you can remember how everything fits when you put the new one in.

 

[Lefty]

The u-joint unbolts from the pinion flange.

Very few tools needed for a complete axle swap. Take pictures each step as you remove the old one so you can remember how everything fits when you put the new one in.

Very good! Thanks again!

 

[scotts90ranger]

Heck, changing the rear axle was one of the FIRST modifications I did, and that was back in the fordranger.com days when I even knew where my Chiltons manual was!

First rear axle swap I did on the '90 Ranger was from the 3.08 to I think 3.73 gears, some guy was local and was selling a 7.5 without any brakes for $15 (yes, $15, said it made noise, I didn't care with 3.08's and being in college). So I figured that out in my mom's gravel driveway... Did the axle swap without bleeding the brakes, pulled the axle shafts then the backing plates, tied up the brake assembly then put the "new" axle under there, worked fine...

Sounds like you know about the diff tag on one of the bolts, as said earlier, it's a complete crapshoot, to make things weirder for whatever reason most explorers seem to have limited slips? For some reason the '91 I had with manual transmission had an open with 3.55's so I swapped it to 3.73's with limited slip instead of using that axle on my '90 and ended up putting a lunchbox locker in it for a while...

For what it's worth, the driveline bolts are 12pt 12mm, if you heat them up some with a propane or butane torch and put a wrench on them then hit the wrench with a hammer that should get them loose... if I go to a junkyard going after a driveline or axle I bring a butane torch if I remember, the yellow loctite they use is kinda mean... From there it's just the U bolts, sway bar (if equipped), diff speed sensor (just unplug) and the center brake hose (you can just cut it if you don't want to deal with it in a junkyard) then the shocks. I used to have the wrench/socket sizes memorized but it's been a while...