Finally have to pull the trans.

[9723]

...but this could be a leak.

This block plate that holds the input shaft seal is difficult to get any info on, but apparently it's called an "adapter", and the input shaft "main bearing retainer". It hold a bearing and some shims too. It's apparently sealed with RTV or similar compound. I don't think I want to mess with it. Hope it's not leaking, or very much.

 

[9723]

I hate pedal clusters, but here I go.

 

[9723]

You know that you should bench-bleed the master and slave cylinders before installation, right?

Are you saying I should hook up the slave to the line now, fill it (while hanging the line somewhere), then disconnect it for installation?

 

[RobbieD]

You can go either way. If you're sure that the slave is "pre-filled", you can just bleed the master.
OR
You can connect the master and slave together and bleed both, then disconnect the line, install the two cylinders and reconnect the line.

Why you should do this- note the angle of the master cylinder when it's bolted to the firewall, and then look at where the hoses are located on the master. If it's installed dry, you'll get an air bubble trapped in the dead-end high end of the master cylinder. It's just about impossible to bleed in this condition.

You're correct about hanging the master so that everything gives air bubbles a straight path upwards. Here is a good description, of just pre-bleeding the master, from another forum (post 61):
https://www.explorerforum.com/forums/threads/a4ld-to-manual-m50d-swap-how-to.293846/page-4

Once the master and slave are bled and properly filled with fluid, you can disconnect and reconnect the line, as there's check valves in the quick-connect fittings.

 

[9723]

You can go either way. ..................

Once the master and slave are bled and properly filled with fluid, you can disconnect and reconnect the line, as there's check valves in the quick-connect fittings.

The master and line kit came prefilled and bled. The slave cylinder did not. So I'll have to hang it and fill the slave.

....but I'm stuck on my first task today....already.

 

[9723]

....trying to take the master cylinder and line out. The book and alldata say, pry the pushrod off the pedal pin. Really?

I put a screwdriver under it and started to apply a little pressure, but stopped, noticing the little hooks on the ears of the pin. If I do that, It's going to break it. Try searching for this. Nobody ever talks about it, shows or tells how it's done. What, remove the dashboard so you can get two hands and two tools on it? I know people do it, but I have no idea how.....without taking a bunch of stuff apart.

 

[9723]

On the new pushrod, those ears are part of the pushrod, so it doesn't matter if I break them? There's nothing on the pedal pin that will break?

 

[RobbieD]

Your trying to remove the old master cylinder, right?

First of all, I'm working from memory on '84 through '94 trucks. Yours is a '97, so understand there may be differences.

Second, I think that the diagram is having you pop the master rod from the pedal. This will just pop off if pried, or you can "help" push the locking tabs on the plastic retainer to better release, it without damage. BUT, this plastic retaining collar, with age, tends to be fragile. Be careful, but new replacements are readily available.

Let's try this. These are pages from the 1994 Ford dealership manual. Might be better than what you're trying to work with.

And bleeding.

 

[RobbieD]

Sorry; forgot the second part of the bleeding instructions.

 

[RobbieD]

On the new pushrod, those ears are part of the pushrod, so it doesn't matter if I break them? There's nothing on the pedal pin that will break?

If you have a new clutch pushrod, I "think" that you'll be OK.

 

[9723]

If you have a new clutch pushrod, I "think" that you'll be OK.

Yes, new pushrod came with it all.

Thanks! I've got some of this data, tho not all. My truck is a little different. I managed to get, first I disconnected the harness connector to the "clutch pedal position switch". I thought it made sense to do it first instead of when the pushrod can be moved around.....I got the pushrod detached and mostly off, but there's a big 50 wire harness in the way so I can't really get it free....right now.

The only way I can get to this is to slide in from the passenger side on my back and twist my way under the steering wheel, laying my head and shoulder on the floor board. I have three crushed disks, two in my lower back and one in my neck. The good news, is I learned when to stop, which I just did...stop. Can't tell if I'll try again later today, but this will likely take a few days to do so I don't injure or lay myself up for a week or so. I climbed in and out of that position 10 times, just to get this far. It hurts. I CAN do most anything as long as I know when to stop.

 

[RobbieD]

You're making good progress, and take your time; no sense in breaking the truck, or more importantly, yourself.

Just remember that my experience and reference material is for the older model trucks, so bear in mind that you'll likely find some differences in what you're working with.

Good luck!

 

[9723]

I crawled in there several more times this afternoon trying to get the "clutch position switch" out. Mine is different than your book, my book, alldata and the new one too. I was able to get the pastic (retainer) cover off, but the switch won't come out. Everything, says pull it rearward to get it off. On mine, that won't work because then your into the white plastic part of the pushrod that's bigger and won't fit thru the slot all the way down one side of the switch. Besides braking it apart, the only thing I could see is pulling the pushrod out, just so the slot will go over the smaller end of the rod. I pulled on it some, but I don't think it comes out...that I can tell. I'll have to read further to that part, to find out how it comes out....not in the sequence the instructions indicate.

 

[9723]

Ok, I went out one more time, just now and got it off....under there about 20 times and looking at all the data and photos, that mine isn't in.

After removing the "retaining" cover, they tell you to rotate it and pull it rearward to get it off. What nobody says anywhere is how much, how far and which end you have to pull off first. ...and the retaining cover tabs are near the pedal end, not the cylinder end.

First, pull it away from the master enough to rotate it nearly 180 degrees to remove the retainer, then rotate it back to the original click-stop...then, you only rotate it maybe 10 degrees so the electrical connector mount is facing straight down. You pull it rearward only about 1/8"...and pull the master cylinder end off first (straight down). Once that end starts to pull off, it slides back toward the master cylinder to avoid the thicker part of the pushrod. It will not come off any other way.

One of the things I've known about the '97 and maybe a couple other years is, Ford was changing the Ranger a lot...and there's no info on some of those changes anywhere that I've been able to find.

I'm adding a photo a day later of how I removed the "clutch position switch" retainer cover....one handed. I'm sure lots of y'all do this too, but I thought I ought to add it. It has two tabs that I could undo with one hand, but this worked.

.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

Ok, I went out one more time, just now and got it off....under there about 20 times and looking at all the data and photos, that mine isn't in.

After removing the "retaining" cover, they tell you to rotate it and pull it rearward to get it off. What nobody says anywhere is how much, how far and which end you have to pull off first. ...and the retaining cover tabs are near the pedal end, not the cylinder end.

First, pull it away from the master enough to rotate it nearly 180 degrees to remove the retainer, then rotate it back to the original click-stop...then, you only rotate it maybe 10 degrees so the electrical connector mount is facing straight down. You pull it rearward only about 1/8"...and pull the master cylinder end off first (straight down). Once that end starts to pull off, it slides back toward the master cylinder to avoid the thicker part of the pushrod. It will not come off any other way.

One of the things I've known about the '97 and maybe a couple other years is, Ford was changing the Ranger a lot...and there's no info on some of those changes anywhere that I've been able to find.

Thanks for the heads up and explanation of what was needed.