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Finally have to pull the trans.


9723

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I don't think it'll work with the swivel exten
If you have the engine and trans tilted down you wont be able to access that bolt easily. If the trans is lifted back to stock position or higher then it opens up that top area. Most likely a cheap six point wrench, (not socket) can be bent in a vice . Six point, not 12 point as the six point is less likely to jump of the bolt head and round it off. If you cant bend the wrench with brute force, heat the wrench red hot and bend, then cool in oil. Once bent the wrench might look like a S from a side view.
Thanks. I'll look at it raised, but it's at least 10" in front of the hole where the shift cover panel was. I can't reach it with my hand from the top at all.
 
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Rock Auto 5% Discount Code: F9A1A579ACFAD1: October 1st, 2021

9723

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I don't know. I'll think on it, but 13mm. Nothing in a 13mm 6-point, anywhere. Snap-on makes a 12mm 6-point, but no other.

This is what I did yesterday. Put back on this morning just for the photos.
With the trans up there's no access...I can't get anything in and it's a long way to the bolt.



With the trans down, you can see where the end of the two extension go.



I got the impact socket back on, so maybe the head isn't damaged.



These are the tools I used and how far it is from the front of the shifter panel to the bolt.
With quite a bit of force, the 6-point impact socket slipped off. Maybe the swivel extension doesn't quite have enough angle to keep it straight. I'm waiting on a 13mm x 1/2" impact swivel. Maybe it has more angle....if I haven't messed up the head.

 
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RobbieD

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Can you lower the tail of the transmission a little more? If so it looks like your extensions and socket would have a straighter shot at the bolt.
 

9723

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Can you lower the tail of the transmission a little more? If so it looks like your extensions and socket would have a straighter shot at the bolt.
It might go a little bit lower, but the siding on top of my plate has slid forward enough to contact the front cross-member (now). Don't know what I'll have to do to knock it backwards an inch. That'll get me about 1/2" lower....maybe, and on the cross-member.

It's probably worth a try tho......I still think I should wait for the impact swivel. I'm scared I'm going to mess up the bolt head with what I'm doing now.
 

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Just to break up the monotony, here's my other project that's now delayed.

xv1 - experimental vortex

 

alwaysFlOoReD

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I don't think it'll work with the swivel exten


Thanks. I'll look at it raised, but it's at least 10" in front of the hole where the shift cover panel was. I can't reach it with my hand from the top at all.
Take a look from the engine bay with the engine and trans raised. That's how I pictured access.
You will have to crawl right on top of the engine.
 

9723

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Take a look from the engine bay with the engine and trans raised. That's how I pictured access.
You will have to crawl right on top of the engine.
There's a lot of stuff in the way...not sure if I can even get my hand that far. I'll look, but I wouldn't be able to pull any torque.
 

9723

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Take a look from the engine bay with the engine and trans raised. That's how I pictured access.
You will have to crawl right on top of the engine.
I just tried the upper wrench (in photo) with the pipe. It goes on there at the correct angle and with that cheater pipe, there's no way to generate the torque needed, but....if I used at least a 20-24" inch pipe and either took out the fender well or tried it nearly straight up (at 10:30 on the clock face), it might work as long as it doesn't slip off the bolt, or break. I don't know how much torque that wrench will take. It's a possibility if I get a longer pipe.

 
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get outta my way, I'm falling!

9723

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I have an idea I'll check in the morning.

If I can get a 2x4 in from the ground to my gear-head box wrench, in a horizontal position...tight, then I might lower the jack and use the engine/trans weight to break the torque.

If the cross-member is in the way, I might place the 2x4 on it..... something like that, but use the engine/trans weight and lower the jack.

It's midnight here, but I went out there and took a look. There is room to stand up (from the floor) a 2x4 in between the cross-member and header to where the wrench would be in a horizontal position. Doesn't look like anything is in the way. I'll try that in the morning.
 
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9723

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Ok, to get the 2x4 in, I had to cut it short and block it up so it would go in place.



I ended up using my standard 12-point combo. It just seemed wrong to potentially break my new gear-head ratchet for its first use.

I also had to taper the top end of the 2x4 because of the header.
I got everything tight and snug before lowering the jack very much, to make sure nothing would slip....but...



....it didn't break loose. I watched the wrench rotate as I lowered the jack. On the "open" end, it moved at least an inch and half, and I think a bit more. It's not loose. There's no more play in the wrench then there was and the 6-point gear-head still fits on the way it did before. I'd think if I'd rounded the bolt head, the wrenches wouldn't fit on the bolt the same way.

What's up? I'm at a loss. Can the bolt still be tight as it was, after rotating 15-20 degrees? ....should continue doing the same thing?
 
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RobbieD

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It looks to me that what you've come up is putting loosening torque on the bolt head about as good as anything. Do you have a long metal pry bar, or rod, that would allow you, with a hammer, to apply some tapping on the bolt head, while the wrench is torqueing it as much as you dare? In other words, some sharp impacts to the bolt while it's torqued may get it to break loose.
 
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alwaysFlOoReD

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Are you absolutely sure you're turning it in the right (lefty-loosey) direction?
 


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