Engine removal questions

[ratdude747]

The week after next I'm pulling my 3.0 to do a long list of things:

-Oil Pan and Gasket
-Valve cover gaskets and grommets
-Exhaust manifolds (one busted stud, couldn't remove with the engine and manifold still in truck)
-Rear main seal (might as well while it's out)

I will have access to a hoist and engine stand.

Questions:

1. What are the lift points on the motor. I've not found a conclusive answer... I've not found any on the block (one tiny one on the upper intake though) and I thought I read that one could run a chain through the exhaust manifolds? Is there some special bracket tool thing I need to buy?

2. What size bolts will I need to buy to mate the stand to the engine?

3. Are there any other tidbits of advice I should know?

 

[adsm08]

I like to use ratchet straps or old seatbelts tied off to the exhaust manifolds to lift an engine that doesn't have factory lift eyes installed. Seatbelts can be done with a single strap, if tied properly. If using ratchet straps I like to use 2, setup to make an X over the intake. It's the best way I have found.

Many times the engine's own bell housing bolts are able to be used to secure the engine to the stand. Sometimes they are too long, in which case get a nut that is bigger than the bolt shaft and use it as a shim. If they are too short you just need to go match up the threads at the hardware store and get longer ones.

In my experience it is easiest to remove the trans and then the engine. It doesn't make much difference for pulling it out, but it makes all the difference in the world putting it back in. Also, if you have an auto, don't forget to reseat the converter before putting it all back together.

 

[ratdude747]

Mind if I ask why removing the tranny makes installation easier? My (probably incomplete) understanding is that as long as I keep a jack (w/ wood block) underneath the tranny pan, I'll be fine. Not like I have a stick (where lining up the input shaft to the clutch would be a pain). Also, I don't have access to a transmission jack either.

 

[adsm08]

That's how the theory goes, yes, but it isn't quite a nice in real world application as it is on paper. I've done it both ways, and I like having the trans out.

These things are kind of put together with the idea that the trans is to be lined up to the engine, not the other way around.

When putting the engine in you have to line up the engine to bell, input shaft to clutch, and get the engine mounts lined up, all while avoiding the body.

On the other hand, if the trans is out, you drop the engine down on the mounts, and then you can line the trans up nice and easy.

Also, while it's not as nice as a tranny jack a regular jack will do the job.

 

[ratdude747]

That's how the theory goes, yes, but it isn't quite a nice in real world application as it is on paper. I've done it both ways, and I like having the trans out.

These things are kind of put together with the idea that the trans is to be lined up to the engine, not the other way around.

When putting the engine in you have to line up the engine to bell, input shaft to clutch, and get the engine mounts lined up, all while avoiding the body.

On the other hand, if the trans is out, you drop the engine down on the mounts, and then you can line the trans up nice and easy.

Also, while it's not as nice as a tranny jack a regular jack will do the job.

Ah. I've always heard that on RWD/4WD, with sticks pull the tranny; with automatics leave the tranny in.

IIRC all I have to worry about is getting the bellhousing to line up as all that holds the flexplate to the TC is four bolts?

I honestly did not plan on pulling the tranny, nor do I want to. I don't want to have to jackstand the truck either; I can access most everything with the truck on the ground.

Besides, isn't removing the tranny a huge pain? I know with mine there were issues last year when I had it rebuilt (the shift cable wasn't happy and right now the housing is held in with a zip tie).

 

[adsm08]

Like I said, I prefer to take the trans out. I've done it both ways with both types of trannies, and it's just my preference. I work with a coupe guys who think I'm nuts for doing it that way. I think the same thing about them for doing it their way. It's all about preference, so do that part however you want.

It really isn't much more work to pull the trans if you are taking the engine out. Aside from the stuff done to pull the engine you are looking at the shifter cable, the cooler lines, drive shaft, and cross member. I would still be unplugging all the connectors on the trans because I take the wire harness out with the engine, and all those plugs are on the engine harness. It can be separated,but it's a pain to get at that one big connector.


As far as jack stands go, if you don't want to, don't. I usually do because I like to have some head room when I work. I've pulled my trans 3 or 4 times just sitting on the ground. I just find it a bit easier to move and manipulate tools with the extra space. All my stuff is stock height though. Even a small lift or some taller tires would make that much nicer.

 

[ratdude747]

Like I said, I prefer to take the trans out. I've done it both ways with both types of trannies, and it's just my preference. I work with a coupe guys who think I'm nuts for doing it that way. I think the same thing about them for doing it their way. It's all about preference, so do that part however you want.

It really isn't much more work to pull the trans if you are taking the engine out. Aside from the stuff done to pull the engine you are looking at the shifter cable, the cooler lines, drive shaft, and cross member. I would still be unplugging all the connectors on the trans because I take the wire harness out with the engine, and all those plugs are on the engine harness. It can be separated,but it's a pain to get at that one big connector.


As far as jack stands go, if you don't want to, don't. I usually do because I like to have some head room when I work. I've pulled my trans 3 or 4 times just sitting on the ground. I just find it a bit easier to move and manipulate tools with the extra space. All my stuff is stock height though. Even a small lift or some taller tires would make that much nicer.

I looked, there is indeed a connector on the harness that separates the engine from the tranny (that looked like I could reach from up top)... that goes to the tranny, speed sensor, and all but one of the O2 sensors. The other O2 sensor does need disconnected from the looks of things (by the oil pressure sender, undone it before when I upgraded to a true needle). Otherwise the harness looks to be an ECU connection by the blower motor, an instrumentation connector by the brake booster, and the rest are things not coming off the engine. The AC and alternator are on a different harness (no biggie, as the former is getting set aside with the PS and the latter is coming out with the bracket).

When I strap up the engine, do I go under the oil pan? or am I best to just go around the exhaust manifolds?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

best to just go around the exhaust manifolds, less tendency to tip.

 

[adsm08]

X2 on the manifolds. I generally get a pair of good strong ratchet straps and tie them off to the manifolds to make an X over the top of the engine. Good stability, good control, and if one happens to let loose there is still another there to catch the engine.

 

[ratdude747]

Wasn't sure the manifolds would hold, but if it's been verified to work, then sure. Note that the Left side of the truck is a lot rustier than the right and this includes the manifold bolts... they're very rusty, I tried to remove one (foolishly) for inspection and snapped it. From the looks the only structural rust is on the outsides of the studs; the insides are fine albiet the upper ones seized, nothing PB blast and a bolt extractor won't fix (even if I have to use a little heat, which I will have access to).

Off Topic: I noticed that (in the picture from rockauto) the new exhaust manifolds include only two studs, two nuts, and two bolts between the pair:

Are these for the pipe ends or for the heads? Are these the only included fasteners? (I ask because I had the parts shipped to my father in law, whose shop I'll be using; I don't have the parts in front of me).

Also, are stainless bolts (M8x1.25) ok for the new manifolds, or is SS too weak (or not worth the expense?)? If the

 

[willy]

Fords like to back manifold bolts out so use normal bolts that rust keeps them in there the studs in the picture are for the exhaust side

 

[ratdude747]

OK. Looks like regular bolts and a sawed off long bolt for the the one that also holds the dipstick.

Noticed another broken stud, this time on the right bank. Damn it!

Ugh damn rust...

 

[Goldranger]

Resurrection ..time.. good article it came up on search .. yikes look that pan ...

 

[Ranger Mark]

Looks like a taffy pull.

 

[mikkelstuff]

Be glad if you can pull the trans/engine yourself. I'm paying to have the very same thing done to my 2002 4WD 3.0L next week as I have no place to do it. I'm guessing $2K-3K, ouch! Mechanic will pull the trans to remove the leaking oil pan gasket.

If automatic trans, be sure to replace the front trans seal while you're at it. Also a good time to flush the cooling system and replace those awful spring type hose clamps with geared clamps.

Another thing - my timing case cover is leaking coolant at the engine joint. Mechanic will fix that while at it. You might check yours.