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Electric shift to lever shift swap


BackwoodsSaint

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Hey, i have a 1994 ford ranger 5spd that has the worst electric shift system ever, i seriously hate it, i've owned the truck for over a year and in all that time it hasn't worked once, now i've done everything short of putting a new wiring harness in and i decided it's time to approach it from a different way

My question is this, i can do all the work, but what parts will i need to get to make a good working swap from the automatic to the manual, and what numbers/info do i need to have to make sure i'm getting the right parts?

How hard do you think this will be?
 


kunar

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to go from electric to manual t-case, youll need the t-case, the shift linkage and the proper floor plate and shifter boot. its a very simple, very straight forward swap. hit up your local you-pull-it kinda yard and get all your stuff from the appropriate donor.

if you havent seen the info in the tech library about troubleshooting and repairing the electric case, start here. you might find what your looking for
http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/index-transmission-transfer-case.shtml
 

BackwoodsSaint

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I thought somebody had mentioned like, some number on the transfer case that had to match to make sure it fit or something like that

I have gone through the troubleshooting guide, talked to ford guys in person who'v worked on them since the truck was new, consulted a priest to bless the truck, held a sayonce, nothing's worked so far ;-) i don't like the electric shift anyways
 

kunar

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I thought somebody had mentioned like, some number on the transfer case that had to match to make sure it fit or something like that

I have gone through the troubleshooting guide, talked to ford guys in person who'v worked on them since the truck was new, consulted a priest to bless the truck, held a sayonce, nothing's worked so far ;-) i don't like the electric shift anyways
good enough for me! im assuming the number youre thinking is 1354. your transfer case will be a borg warner 1354. im not exactly sure where the cut off was but anything in the 80's will be a 1350. most (nearly all) of these will have a slip yoke at the front output. yours will have a fixed yoke. AFAIK the 1354 was used from early 90's until the end of production. finding a manual 1354 may prove difficult, but they are out there.
 

BackwoodsSaint

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are there any non-1354 manual t-cases that i can put in?
 

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are there any non-1354 manual t-cases that i can put in?
Pretty sure the bw1354 and bw1350 are the only transfer cases that will bolt in. They are good transfer cases awyway, many people keep them when they do 302 swaps.

Sent from, wait how did this get here?
 

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just remember most 1350's have a slip yoke for the front shaft and the 1354's don't have that
 

BackwoodsSaint

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what do i have to do differently because of that?
 

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what do i have to do differently because of that?
probably just use the right driveshaft... if you get a t/case with slip yoke, get the driveshaft also.
 

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probably just use the right driveshaft... if you get a t/case with slip yoke, get the driveshaft also.
yes and no... as long as the driveshaft is the right length, things should work fine. problem is that back in the 80's they used a d28 front axle, and they used transmissions that were shorter as well. both of these factors changed the length of the driveshafts.

supposedly the shaft from an 86-87 ranger manual would work. they had a d28 front end and an fm145 trans. that should put the length the same as the front shaft in your truck. i dont know this for sure though.
 

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problem is that back in the 80's they used a d28 front axle, and they used transmissions that were shorter as well. both of these factors changed the length of the driveshafts.
They had some transmissions that were the same length as the later ones, the A4LD ('85+) never changed length through all of its reincarnations and I think there was an FM or two that was the same too.

If you have a suspension lift depending on what it is it might help make the driveshaft being too long not quite such a big deal too.

Local shop only charged me $50 to shorten my front driveshaft. :icon_thumby:
 

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