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eec relay and fuel pump relay ?


sweetsride

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hello.... my truck died the other day(86 ranger on b2 frame with 2.9l) so i did a little diggen and reading and was noticing that the relays were not clicking on and the pump was not running for its 3sec before start...


I changed the EEC relay and herd it click when trying to start.. then i change the FP relay and it clicked when trying to start but not pump noise.... so i checked the Enersa switch and there was power going in and not out... i jumpered it and tried to start it and herd the pump running and turned it over and it runs...


I guess what im asking is... has anyone had both relays and the enersa switch crap out on them at the same time??


Later
Kris
 


IMenriched

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hello.... my truck died the other day(86 ranger on b2 frame with 2.9l) so i did a little diggen and reading and was noticing that the relays were not clicking on and the pump was not running for its 3sec before start...


I changed the EEC relay and herd it click when trying to start.. then i change the FP relay and it clicked when trying to start but not pump noise.... so i checked the Enersa switch and there was power going in and not out... i jumpered it and tried to start it and herd the pump running and turned it over and it runs...


I guess what im asking is... has anyone had both relays and the enersa switch crap out on them at the same time??

Later
Kris
Not likely to happen..suppose it could. more likely is that there is a bad connection /wire between what you already checked...by by-passing it you improved /renewed current voltage.

double check the connections and continuity of wires
 

Deluxedave

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I just put a new computer in to fix a fuel pump issue where the fuel pump would not prime when I turned the key. Question for you: does the fuel pump shut off after 2 seconds before you start it?
 

sweetsride

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yes.. the fuel pump dose shut off after the 2 sec prime cycle.



Later
Kris
 

windwsxpbronco2

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Sorry to dig up an "old" thread. Does the pump prime EVERY time you turn the ignition on, or only if the line isn't up to pressure? I would say 2 out of 5 times of me flipping the ignition on and off consecutively I can hear the pump...
 

79F1504X400

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Sorry to dig up an "old" thread. Does the pump prime EVERY time you turn the ignition on, or only if the line isn't up to pressure? I would say 2 out of 5 times of me flipping the ignition on and off consecutively I can hear the pump...
It should run for two seconds everytime you turn the key off and back on (as you mentioned)....otherwise I'd say you have an intermittent problem. As it was posted a few threads back, check all the wiring and connectors associated with the FP. I had similar issue....No priming at all to be exact. Found out the FP relay wasn't getting ground and also had a frayed wire down on the Hi-press. fuel pump. Its been covered alot about the importance of the grounds doing their job. Check all the grounds that you can find and clean/repair them. Good luck and keep digging.
 
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It should run for two seconds everytime you turn the key off and back on (as you mentioned)....otherwise I'd say you have an intermittent problem. As it was posted a few threads back, check all the wiring and connectors associated with the FP. I had similar issue....No priming at all to be exact. Found out the FP relay wasn't getting ground and also had a frayed wire down on the Hi-press. fuel pump. Its been covered alot about the importance of the grounds doing their job. Check all the grounds that you can find and clean/repair them. Good luck and keep digging.
You said that your FP relay wasn't getting ground.

Where is the FP relay ground at?

Do the fuel injectors use the same ground as the FP relay?
 

Psychopete

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Fuel pump ground runs from the computer to the fuel pump relay. When the key is on run it will only turn the fuel pump on for 1-2 sec 2 times to prime.. Fuel injectors fire in batches - 3 injectors per wire from the computer, and they are two different pins. Injectors have positive 12v all of the time and the computer grounds them to trip the solenoids.
 

windwsxpbronco2

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I cleaned up all the grounds on the battery yesterday, pretty bad...as well as all the battery acid that I have been intentionally neglecting due to laziness on the positive side hahaha. I had no problems this morning until I pulled into the parking lot of work :/ at least I know I'm good at the battery. If I get home soon enough today, Im gonna get under the truck and check out the high pressure pump...Im hoping its just a wire, free to fix :) Otherwise I gotta hook up some volt meters and make sure the electrical side is good until I start swapping parts...It would be nice if it wasnt an intermittent issue, but on the other hand I know that it's always going to start (at least it currently does, which leads me to believe wiring)!
 
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windwsxpbronco2

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When the key is on run it will only turn the fuel pump on for 1-2 sec 2 times to prime
Maybe I'm misunderstanding... but according to your info if I cycle my key 5 times, then the pump will only prime the first 2 key cycles, for 1-2 seconds each prime?
 

Psychopete

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Maybe I'm misunderstanding... but according to your info if I cycle my key 5 times, then the pump will only prime the first 2 key cycles, for 1-2 seconds each prime?
Sorry, my English is very elementary. I have a hard time explaining things at times, but I did miss part of your post about cycling the key. Basically when the key is put on 'Run' (1 cycle of the key), and remains on Run, the pumps will run 2 times, about 1-2 sec for each. Not sure if cycling/speed is causing that behavior (I don't have a 2.9L I can test with right now).

But to me, seems like a good route to go would be to try and hook up a test light to the inertia switch, so that you can visually see the pulses in the cab to isolate which part of the circuit is at fault. Eg, if it lights, but no pump, the problem is further down stream. If no light and no pump, then it's something under the hood.

I suppose an approperiate question is, what are the issues you're having currently?
 

windwsxpbronco2

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Well, hooked up my dad's OTC scanner, got a code 96, which refers us too fuel pump/relay issues... tested out all functions of relay, SAT. Checked grounds and fusable links for a loose connection, found one but it "fixed" itself and couldnt emulate the bad fusable link to break again (corrosion). Cleaned up more terminals, still got a code 96 with key on engine off. Process of elimination led me to the inertia switch. Bypassed the inertia switch, cleared codes, ran key on engine off test again, no more codes :) Ran key on engine run test, no codes as well :D So i pulled the paper clip, key on engine off test, got code 96. Final verdict for now, inertia switch needs to be swapped. Found a couple on ebay, NOS for about $30 out the door. Will order soon, especially since i jammed up the fast lane earlier today when she stalled randomly as usual ;)
 

windwsxpbronco2

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For the record as well, attempting to reset the inertia switch did not work, so im assuming I must have gotten some antifreeze or some other sort of corrosion inside of it from the heater core, it used to leak a bit.
 

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WTF is an "enersa switch"?


Is he talking about the inertia switch?
 

windwsxpbronco2

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WTF is an "enersa switch"?


Is he talking about the inertia switch?

Yup, you're hot on it. Did you look that up in the dictionary??
 

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