Duratec block heater?


Dirtman

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Anyone know of a direct fit block heater that will work for the 2.3 d-tech? Is there even any threaded spots in the block to install one? Usually trucks sold farther up north come from the dealer with them pre-installed but I havent found any specific for the duratec or know where and what thread size a plug on the block would be to install a universal one.
 


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adsm08

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Katz #310002 lists as fitting that engine. It looks small though, not sure where it installs.
 

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You could use a Core Plug(freeze plug) style block heater

The Rangers 2.3l Duratec engine is a Mazda L engine, designation is the 23NS
 

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Every engine I've had with a block heater in 40 years has a core plug style heater. I live in Canada. I've added in line heaters, and magnetic oil pan heaters. They both work too. The inline has the advantage in that the it uses the heater core lines and the defrost works quicker.
 
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Dirtman

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I love the idea of the magnetic heater.... Except there's no freaking steel on a duratec to attach it to. :annoyed:

Anyone ever try a dipstick heater? They seem a little cheesey but would obviously be simple to use.

When it gets above -5 I'll crawl under and look for a spot where the kats block heater is suppose to go. It says its 3/4" npt but I dunno where there's a 3/4" npt plug. I just bought a kats battery warmer since my truck has failed to start without a jump the past 3 days. And yes my battery is good... It just doesn't seem to like -15 degree mornings. This global warming thing sure does suck.
 
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Uncle Gump

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I tried one of those dipstick heaters years ago... Back then I didn't think it was worth it. Was a long time ago... maybe they got better over the years.

All four of our vehicles started everyday at -25 or colder... Even my old 94 and the kids $150 jeep cherokee. Maybe your battery isn't as "good" as you think it is.

The best solution would be to build a nice heated shop and just park it inside.
 

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I pulled up Kat's application chart, which gives very broad indications of where there stuff gets installed, and for that engine it just says "left rear". There is probably a threaded plug hole somewhere for a block drain or a machining port.
 

Dirtman

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So friggin big!
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I tried one of those dipstick heaters years ago... Back then I didn't think it was worth it. Was a long time ago... maybe they got better over the years.

All four of our vehicles started everyday at -25 or colder... Even my old 94 and the kids $150 jeep cherokee. Maybe your battery isn't as "good" as you think it is.

The best solution would be to build a nice heated shop and just park it inside.
My battery is an econo cheapo so the amps are low for sure, a battery with 100+ more cca would probably start but thats 160 bucks vs 30 for the heater. When I do get a new battery I definitely wont be a cheapskate about it this time lol.

Id love a heated garage though, right now I have a tent and a torpedo heater...
 

Dirtman

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So friggin big!
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I pulled up Kat's application chart, which gives very broad indications of where there stuff gets installed, and for that engine it just says "left rear". There is probably a threaded plug hole somewhere for a block drain or a machining port.
Yep I looked theres a threaded freeze pluggy type thing right at the bottom of the block. Not gonna be fun to get to (not like anything is on this engine) and its going to get coolant everywhere when I take it out. :annoyed:
 

adsm08

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At least you aren't replacing the EGR valve.
 

Dirtman

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At least you aren't replacing the EGR valve.
Why, pulling the transmission to replace an egr valve seems perfectly logical to me. Same with removing a tire and inner fender to replace a pcv valve. Freakin ford... :icon_rofl:
 

adsm08

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Why, pulling the transmission to replace an egr valve seems perfectly logical to me. Same with removing a tire and inner fender to replace a pcv valve. Freakin ford... :icon_rofl:
You misspelled "intake manifold".

Honestly though, this is the same as the issues with the 3.0 Ranger and Lincoln Continental. They keep taking engines that were designed to go in one way, turning them sideways, and then wondering why its hard to work on.
 

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The circulating type heaters cost more but often easier to install on a heater hose.
When plugged into 110vAC the pump circulates and heats the coolant in the engine
 

Dirtman

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The circulating type heaters cost more but often easier to install on a heater hose.
When plugged into 110vAC the pump circulates and heats the coolant in the engine
I looked at those but 2 things popped into my head. A. My engine has a heater core control valve so with the truck off no coolant can flow through it. And B. With the thermostat closed and no flow through the heater core wouldn't it basically just be warming a tiny portion of the coolant in the heater core line? Correct me if Im on wrong on this, its just how I'm picturing it in my head...

The block style heater wont circulate but will warm all the coolant surrounding the block which sounds to me a better method? Although more complex to install.
 
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Yep I looked theres a threaded freeze pluggy type thing right at the bottom of the block. Not gonna be fun to get to (not like anything is on this engine) and its going to get coolant everywhere when I take it out. :annoyed:

its right behind the exhaust manifold, yes its threaded.
near the rear, slightly above the down pipe.






its behind the white wrapping & coolant tube, just below the exhaust manifold stud.
 
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