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Dana 35 SLA Intermediate Shaft Bearing and Seal (2000 3.0l 4x4 flex fuel)


NotEnoughCowbell

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I've been having trouble locating these two parts (intermediate shaft bearing and seal). Can anyone point me in the right direction here? I have taken apart the front end on this truck multiple times trying to find the right bearing, spent so much time researching and calling dealerships, parts stores, everything. I can find the Seal easy enough, but that bearing doesn't exist or everywhere it does has it labeled incorrectly. I've eaten two intermediate shafts and spent countless hours of frustration chasing down this apparent rabbit hole, does anyone have a link to the part or can teach me how to navigate this parts catalog and where to actually input the part number? I apologize if this reads poorly, I'm not much of a poster, just feel like I'm out of options!

Through TRS forums I found the Dana/Spicer part catalog https://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/pdf_documents/X510-2.pdf

The part I am looking for is number #31 on the diagram on page #12.
Front Axle Diagram.png


Then in the Parts Listing it has (2) that directs you to the Variable Parts table
Parts List.png


In the Variable Parts Table is where my confusion lies; how do I determine which "Bill Of Material" number refers to my specific axle?
Variable Parts List.png


I tried looking on my axle itself and I found 3 codes, but none of them look anything like what's on these tables.

First Code on Passenger Side Intermediate Shaft Tube (closest to differential): KIPP2
Second Code on Passenger Side Intermediate Shaft Tube(closest to CV Axle): 47014
Code on Rear of Differential above Driveshaft connection: MKC 13 46058 REV -BB

I took pictures of these too but they're hard to see/read because of their location.

Thank you for reading, this is my first truck I have owned for over 10 years. I blew it up stupidly 7 years ago and started a restoration/rebuild mid-2020. Since then, I have dialed everything in except this ridiculous front end problem. I've replaced then rebuilt the entire rear end, front end, entire AC system, Cooling System, fuel pump, injectors, rebuilt and welded the entire exhaust system, vacuum lines, camshaft synchronizer, just about anything you can think of. All that's left is this bearing that's kept me grounded for months.
 


RonD

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Welcome to TRS :)

Haven't rebuilt a Dana 35 SLA
Looks like most used "31", 566063

Only other one is 2002805 which is synthetic bushing and not available

Could the intermediate shaft or the housing be the issue?
 
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pjtoledo

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NotEnoughCowbell

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We may have a winner. Might be a bit until I can get it in and get back to update this post, but I've been creeping TRS for 10+ years, nothing more bothersome than an unresolved thread lol.
THE ONE RING.png
 

pjtoledo

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I've taken 3 of these axles apart, found no wear on the outer bearing surface of the intermediate shafts.
heck, one had the plastic bushing and it wasn't worn either.
are you putting the correct amount of lube in?

that bearing was tough to get out, check for damage where it seats.

looks like RockAuto has the best price, by a lot.

can you post a pic of a damaged shaft?
 

NotEnoughCowbell

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there is at least 2 versions of that bearing
a steel roller bearing
a plastic bushing,,yes I said plastic bushing.

I bought a new steel roller bearing from NAPA a few years ago.
NAPA bearings BRG B268


Axle Bearing - Front BRG B268 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com)

I believe that's the bearing I have in it that I got from Napa. I'll have to read it when I pull it back out to be sure, because if it is then the problem may be more like what RonD is saying; something to do with the housing itself? Do you have a link to the Plastic Bushing? that doesn't sound right, but I'd be interested in seeing it to know what you mean
 

NotEnoughCowbell

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I've taken 3 of these axles apart, found no wear on the outer bearing surface of the intermediate shafts.
heck, one had the plastic bushing and it wasn't worn either.
are you putting the correct amount of lube in?

that bearing was tough to get out, check for damage where it seats.

~5 years offroading and sinking it in mud as a teenager, then 5 years sitting in a field. From my understanding, this bar and bearing is something that should NEVER have to be replaced. Play stupid games win stupid prizes right lol. And yes, gear lube flushed and changed and checked periodically as I've been doing this. just to be sure, what is the correct fluid?
 

NotEnoughCowbell

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there is at least 2 versions of that bearing
a steel roller bearing
a plastic bushing,,yes I said plastic bushing.

I bought a new steel roller bearing from NAPA a few years ago.
NAPA bearings BRG B268


Axle Bearing - Front BRG B268 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts (napaonline.com)

I don't know how I missed that! Too many numbers and I was searching to quickly I guess. Where do I apply that part number? I've ordered a ton through RockAuto and rarely a few other sites, and I'm sure I could figure it out, but like I said I've spent so much time on this bearing I want to cover ALL my bases lol.

Timeline: Replaced CV Axles, Upper and Lower control arms, tie rod ends, sway bar links, put it all back together and took it for a test drive. Immediately felt like I had something dragging in the front end.

Tore it apart again, found the bearing under the Intermediate Shaft to be destroyed. Could not locate an Intermediate shaft for the life of me. out of stock everywhere and literally wasn't even showing up on any parts sites. Found what I thought to be the correct bearing (weeks of running around blah blah blah) and installed it. The Stock Intermediate Shaft was pitted and definitely worn, but I couldn't replace it so I had to put it back in with the new "correct"* bearing. Drove for ~100miles. Felt better, but I had a banshee screaming that told me I still wasn't done.

Located the Intermediate Shaft scrolling through RockAuto randomly one day and snatched it up. As soon as it came in I bought another of the "correct" bearing I had found and put the new shaft, bearing, and seal in. On the old (original) intermediate shaft, I noticed imprints where the bearing had worn into the intermediate shaft (hence the banshee screaming). Thinking (hoping) it was due to the shaft itself being so worn, I replaced the "correct" bearing with another new "correct" bearing then put the new intermediate shaft in. Drove for ~100 miles and it felt PERFECT. Then I went to drive one day and it immediately started screaming like a banshee again.

I have not torn it apart again yet, hoping to find the correct bearing and a new shaft before then. Hope that gives you a little more detail, I'm pretty certain it's just that bearing and shaft but as I said, all of this is new to me.
 

pjtoledo

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I believe that's the bearing I have in it that I got from Napa. I'll have to read it when I pull it back out to be sure, because if it is then the problem may be more like what RonD is saying; something to do with the housing itself? Do you have a link to the Plastic Bushing? that doesn't sound right, but I'd be interested in seeing it to know what you mean
the plastic bushing is buried deep in the stash of old parts, I'll see if I can find it.
 

NotEnoughCowbell

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I've taken 3 of these axles apart, found no wear on the outer bearing surface of the intermediate shafts.
heck, one had the plastic bushing and it wasn't worn either.
are you putting the correct amount of lube in?

that bearing was tough to get out, check for damage where it seats.

looks like RockAuto has the best price, by a lot.

can you post a pic of a damaged shaft?
There we go. Old shaft top, New shaft bottom. Hard to see from the picture but you can see the lines i the top shaft from the bearing
20230320_102941.jpg
 

pjtoledo

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yikes,
is there something in the tube restricting lube flow?

manual says 80-90 hypoid gear lube, 3.6 pints.
 

NotEnoughCowbell

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yikes,
is there something in the tube restricting lube flow?

manual says 80-90 hypoid gear lube, 3.6 pints.
Nothing that I can see, I spent a lot of time cleaning it out and wasn't noticing any imperfections on the inside of the housing or where the bearing seats. With it all together, you can grab the end of the CV Axle where it plugs into the Intermediate shaft and it has significant amounts of play. 80/90 sounds familiar, and it would have been 80/90 Royal Purple because I had a **fun** time rebuilding the rear axle and thought "ill just spend the extra money and hope I don't have to do this again". Never heard/seen anything about "hyphoid". Also I kept seeing information about friction modifier but from what I could tell that was something only the rear end with limited slip needs..?
 

pjtoledo

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hypoid refers to how the gears teeth mesh, the offset centerlines or whatever.
on axles they have large angles and slide against each other.
totally different lube requirements compared to straight gear teeth.

correct, no friction modifier needed in the front, or any open type differential.
 

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I imagine that plastic one referenced is the synthetic bushing thats "out of stock"

That axle race looks pitted, usual cause is grit/debris getting in, did the bearing rollers show pitting as well?
Lack of lubrication gets that overheated rainbow effect but usually smooth
 
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sgtsandman

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~5 years offroading and sinking it in mud as a teenager, then 5 years sitting in a field. From my understanding, this bar and bearing is something that should NEVER have to be replaced. Play stupid games win stupid prizes right lol. And yes, gear lube flushed and changed and checked periodically as I've been doing this. just to be sure, what is the correct fluid?
80W-90 is the gear oil for both the front and rear axle.

75W-90 if you want to go synthetic.

I like the bag type “bottle” Valvoline uses. So much easier fill the differentials with those. It’s even easier if you pick up a hose with a threaded adapter on them that fits the threading for the bottle cap.
 

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