Dana 35 and 8.8 axel conversion


Gryphon

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Hey there have a 88 manual Bronco II with 4wd and manual locking hubs- about to do the front & rear axel conversion and I’ve narrowed it down to 2 explores - a 92 and 93 explorer both with 4wd

92 - 80xxx miles - automatic locking hubs - automatic transmission- been sitting for 8 years - no apparent rust

93 - 160xxx miles - manual hubs - manual transmission (blown tho) been sitting 6months - surface rust .

Both : 400$ - 4wd - rear drums :( - both have seats I need -

What’s your guys opinion on which car I should grab - I leaning more towards 93 with manual hubs since I may need ecu for auto (or wrig my own switch ) and although 92 has less miles it’s been sitting for 8 years - I’m sure I could clean rust off axels of 93 and I plan on getting new shocks and bushing during swap but what’s your guys opinion?

Ps. Once I swap axels to bronco can I take the old ones from my car and put em back on explorer?
 


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alwaysFlOoReD

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Do they both have the same gearing?
You could swap the axles back to the explorer, but why?
 

Gryphon

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I’m not sure about eithers gearing - not quite sure how to figure that one out, I’m assuming a sticker? And we need a farm truck at my work (just chop the top off ) figured I could swap something back over so atleast it can be driven around the farm .
 

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The front axle from the B2 will go right in, the rear one is gonna be funky. Ignoring the spring over/spring under differences the B2 had a pad spring spacing that was unique among the RBVs, so the perches won't be in quite the right spot.
 

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The front axle from the B2 will go right in, the rear one is gonna be funky. Ignoring the spring over/spring under differences the B2 had a pad spring spacing that was unique among the RBVs, so the perches won't be in quite the right spot.
Yes, the spring pad spacing is different. I overcame that by drilling a couple holes in the pad and using a piece of 3/8" flatstock welded to the pad. I have pics somewhere.
 

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Yes, the spring pad spacing is different. I overcame that by drilling a couple holes in the pad and using a piece of 3/8" flatstock welded to the pad. I have pics somewhere.
Yeah, and if it's just a farm truck and never goes anywhere it doesn't have to be pretty, it just has to sorta work.
 

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Well explorer will be used as farm truck but Bronco II should look nice - how to you go about spreading the spacing ? Get new perches welded on I’m assuming-
 

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But back to my main question which explorer do you think would be better to grab ?
 

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Grab the one with the transmission you want.

I'd go with the manual, it will have fewer parts that you need to go find for yourself.
 

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Does either have a manual transfer case? they're nice and would make some driveshaft things easier... although the TK trans you probably have is shorter so driveshafts might be an issue either way... I haven't dealt with that as everything I've ever had has had an M5OD or an A4LD (other than the 2 V8 explorers with 4R70W's)
 

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Does either have a manual transfer case? they're nice and would make some driveshaft things easier... although the TK trans you probably have is shorter so driveshafts might be an issue either way... I haven't dealt with that as everything I've ever had has had an M5OD or an A4LD (other than the 2 V8 explorers with 4R70W's)
88 4x4 should be an FM146. That's the same length as the A4LD/M5OD
 

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That makes it easier then... especially if one has the manual transfer case so you can just use the Explorer front drive shaft... the rear drive shaft just make sure there's enough room for some compression or move the axle back a little when you put the new spring mounts on the axle...
 

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Okay sweet, I was thinking of just replacing the rear tho , it’s a cv and it pretty messed up- I heard cv are better for dd and double cardigan for off-road - what’s your guys input? Also will the rear driveshaft have a wider track?
 

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What?

Driveshaft has nothing to do with track width or length, but due to the longer pumpkins on both axles the stock driveshafts might need to be shortened for the explorer axles. What Adsm and I were talking about is the drivetrain length is based on transmission length, there was about 4 on RBV's in the 80's just on 4x4's so driveshafts get confusing at times but the M5OD and FM146 manuals along with the A4LD auto are the same length so that helps on some of that. The easiest thing to do when swapping to a D35 front axle from a D28 is grab the front driveshaft and BW1354 transfer case so you get a dual cardan front shaft without the slip splines in the transfer case like the BW1350 uses. For the rear driveshaft I'm thinking from what you are saying you have the CV style not normal U joints or dual cardan. The CV driveshaft can take a higher angle of use constantly but I don't think they're made like a car's front shafts and have tighter angle tolerances so can't deal with lift and definitely can't take the in and out movement that happens with a lift in a leaf sprung vehicle. I think there's a way to use the stock front shaft from an Explorer in the back of a BII but I'm not sure...
 

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O sorry was thinking when I wrote that meant to “does rear 8.8 axel extend the width of track vs my stock” had driveshaft on the mind :p n ok I’ll make sure to grab transfer case and front driveline
 


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