Common Oil Leaks For Rangers


ddmiddle7

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Hey guys. I just bought my first truck a few days ago and I got a '95 Ranger XLT. It has a slight oil leak and I am wondering what some common things to check for. I don't know much about mechanics, but I want to learn. I am so glad I found this forum site. I have only had it three days and have a list of forums to read and start some projects.

Any ideas on common oil leaking problems, and also where to find them in the engine would be great.

Thanks in advance!!
 


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koda6966

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Oil pan.

Mine loses about a half quart every time I drive 60 miles or so. And slowly loses it while I sit (thicker).
 

ddmiddle7

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the leak is right in the center near the back of the engine, i don't know anything really about engines but have some friends who do, just wanting to get a list of things to check.

thanks
 

MikeInIdaho

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Valve Cover Gasket
 

RobbieD

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^ +1 Put a socket on them (think they're 8mm) and just check that they're snug. Mine had loosened, and tightening them significantly reduced the engine's oil leakage.
 

aj23

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the transmission in rangers are known to leak after a lil while check that
 

scotts90ranger

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the seal housing, oil pan, and valve cover are the main things I've ran across, with all of them if you tighten them up it will reduce the leak almost completely.

the things that are somewhat more difficult are the front and rear seal.
 

96Greenster

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Maybe rear main seal? Its between Engine and Transmission.
 

tbphanzer

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Rear main seal sounds like it might be it too. pretty sure my 89 is leaking from the same spot. my pop says its rear main seal and the leak sound like same spot yours is from. other then that i'd go with the other guys advice.
 

96Greenster

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I replaced my Rear Main Seal when I replaced the clutch, even though it didnt need it. Now I need to replace the Front Main Seal. Its located close to the timming belt area, accordindg to mechanic. My truck is all splattered from under because of that little seal. When its leaking it makes a oil path from the front towards the tranny, i thought it was the oil pan gasket, but I pressure washed every thing under the truck to see were it started to leak... And found out its coming from the timming belt cover area and thats where the front seal is. Hope I made sense.
 

E4Ranger

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sounds good- ya need to take the cover off and see exactly where. could be front seal,most likely, or the cam seal. fyi-when ya tightening any bolts like suggested above, be sure not to tighten too much. this can make matters worst and warp parts(from experience), use a torque wrench when able and go by torque specs.
 

scotts90ranger

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on oil pans and valve covers use a nut driver, as hard as you can tighten with one will be about the right torque for those bolts... just a little tidbit...
 

Live Aloha 50

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I have 2002 Mazda B2300 - Aka Ford Ranger - Front Main Seal was my problem... what a mess - Easy seal - $7 seal - but it's major - major - major - job to fix...

The front seal is located behind the main pulley - getting it off is a drag - why? It wouldn't be so bad to take out the radiator - but then the Radiator Air conditioner is still in the way - or in other words - let's hope you have no AC and an oil leak... Otherwise - good luck getting that main pulley off...

Okay so let's say - after 2 days you do get the bolt off - without removing the AC radiator - you will notice "there is no notch on the inside the pulley..." WTF?

Yikes! By removing the main pulley - you just threw the engine out of time!!!

That's okay - all you have to do is remove everything from the valve cover up - without the valve cover on - gander at the cams - place an aluminum ruler to lock the cams - turn the pistons until - the number 1 piston in the TDC position - hold - go under the engine - screw in a special pin - rotate the drive shaft until it hits the pins - that dance means the cams and the drive shaft are now in sync - then put the pulley back on... valve cover...
 

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I have 2002 Mazda B2300 - Aka Ford Ranger - Front Main Seal was my problem... what a mess - Easy seal - $7 seal - but it's major - major - major - job to fix...

The front seal is located behind the main pulley - getting it off is a drag - why? It wouldn't be so bad to take out the radiator - but then the Radiator Air conditioner is still in the way - or in other words - let's hope you have no AC and an oil leak... Otherwise - good luck getting that main pulley off...

Okay so let's say - after 2 days you do get the bolt off - without removing the AC radiator - you will notice "there is no notch on the inside the pulley..." WTF?

Yikes! By removing the main pulley - you just threw the engine out of time!!!

That's okay - all you have to do is remove everything from the valve cover up - without the valve cover on - gander at the cams - place an aluminum ruler to lock the cams - turn the pistons until - the number 1 piston in the TDC position - hold - go under the engine - screw in a special pin - rotate the drive shaft until it hits the pins - that dance means the cams and the drive shaft are now in sync - then put the pulley back on... valve cover...
I hope he found some time to fix his oil leak in the past 10 years.

Your 2.3l is a totally different design... On the old 2.3/2.5 the crank pulley and timing gear are keyed. There's no worry about messing up the timing by removing the crank pulley.
 

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Get the best 'rubber' cam cover gasket you can find. The 'cork' and 'cork/rubber' gaskets will not seal well, and my experience is that no matter how clean you get the cover and head, they won't work, will loosen and seep oil. The oil will/can leak out the back end, down the bell housing, and appear to be a rear main leak. Don't get fooled. Replace the cam cover gasket, clean the bell, and everything else, and drive a few K miles. Check. My pan gasket seems to be so leakproof that there's not enough oil to prevent slight corrosion.
Remember, the PCV system must work or you'll get pressure buildup in the crankcase which can force oil past the easiest leak spot.
tom
 


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