Cheap 2" lift on 1987 4x4 ford ranger

[4x4junkie]

No you don't necessarily have to use Rough Country shocks... You can go with just about anything if the length and mountings are correct (~14" fully-extended, +/- an inch for the front shocks (stem-top/eye-bottom), ~28" extended +/- 1" for the rear shocks (eye-eye)). Unless the shocks specifically state "For 4" lift", you may have to peruse the specifications page in some catalogs to find ones the right length (for example I have KYB Gas-A-Just shocks on the front of my '94... KYB didn't list a "lift" shock for it, but I found that the forward shock position on a '79 Bronco having the "Quad-Shock" option was the right length and mounting).

Lately there's been some fairly decent shocks coming from the suspension lift companies vs. what was common a decade or two ago... Rough Country's "N3" line is decent, as is the Skyjacker "M95" line. Of course neither will compare with a higher-end shock such as from Fox or King, but they are a great choice if there are any (not-too-excessively-crimping) budgetary concerns.

4.10 gears will work decent with 31" tires. 4.56 (or even 4.88 since you have an automatic) would be ideal, but unless you have another reason to open the axles (such as adding lockers) I probably wouldn't bother with a swap from 4.10.

 

[franklin2]

You don't "have to" run a larger tire with a lift. I will tell you larger tires will kill the power of the truck. My f250 had a 4 inch lift and 35's on it, and I went to a smaller tire and it's like a new truck. Tows better, runs down the road better. It lost the redneck truck look, but as far as using it for truck things, it's 10 times better with the smaller tires on it.

On the shocks, I am cheap. Mine had some expensive Rancho lift shocks on it. Stupid expensive in my book. I finally ended having to change the front ones for inspection reasons, and I was not going to pay that price for the proper lift shocks. So I took the shock mount and unbolted it, cut 4 inches out of it, re-welded it back together and then bought stock shocks for it.

I see in the picture below that truck (if it's like yours) has a interesting bolt on bracket on the bottom for the shock mount. I think I would unbolt that and modify it so it was 4 inches higher and then just use the stock shocks. Also don't forget about your brake lines, you can lower them and re-bend the hardline to make them fit.

 

[SenorNoob]

If cheap is the ultimate thing, then the catalog is pretty handy. I found superduty shocks are excellent for a couple inches of lift.

 

[scotts90ranger]

For budget shocks I've had great luck with the Skyjacker shocks I put on my '90, a decade later and still going strong... back in the day I got them off the TRS store for $75 a pair I think, it was silly cheap and it rides good... They're still pressurized and work fine... back then there was a chart on extended lengths or something and I just picked what I thought was right and it's worked out, junkie's lengths are probably better than whatever I got as I was a little optimistic

That lower mount on the pic above is stock on a Dana 28, they had double shear where the D35 is single shear on a stud... can't really move it up as it's just 3 holes drilled in the radius arms with a bracket on the outside...

 

[RustyDusty]

I decided not to get the kit from the junkyard after I phoned the guy and asked what he wanted for just the brackets, coil springs, spacers and pitman arm and he was firm at $200. Seemed really silly to pay another $200 for shocks and be $100 shy of the kit new. Especially with the kit’s bad reputation. I’ve also seen some first Gen rangers look a little weird with 4” lifts. I’m back to planning for a 2” lift. I think I’ll go with an add a leaf in the rear (some don’t come with new u-bolts, I need new ones right? I read they won’t tighten down the same after undoing them and they become weak if you try.) up front I’m thinking of getting some 1.5” leveling coil springs up, potentially a few washers under it if the fronts not sitting as high as I want. Or maybe just do all washers rather than get new leveling coils. Then take it to an alignment shop and either give them some adjustable camber bushings I pick up online or call ahead and see if they already have some bushings on hand that would work. I’ll have to figure out what sized tires would go well for a 2-ish inch lift. Any recommendations?

 

[4x4prepper]

> I think I’ll go with an add a leaf in the rear (some don’t come with new u-bolts, I need new ones right?

I put a 1.5" add-a-leafs in my 1985 B2 and used the same U-bolts. Though Rangers might be different with factory blocks.

 

[franklin2]

I re-use the u-bolts anytime I can. The only time I don't is if they are rusted really bad. I did find out a impact gun doesn't help much taking them off. They flex too much and take all the impact out of the driver. Socket with breaker bar and long pipe works usually. With lots of penetrating oil.

 

[RustyDusty]

> I think I’ll go with an add a leaf in the rear (some don’t come with new u-bolts, I need new ones right?

I put a 1.5" add-a-leafs in my 1985 B2 and used the same U-bolts. Though Rangers might be different with factory blocks.

Did you need to get longer shocks when you did that? If so what did you choose?