Cheap 2" lift on 1987 4x4 ford ranger

[RustyDusty]

They were only present on STX trucks and only a small percentage of those had the lift components.

If you click on the link in my signature (1988 Ranger High Rider - info thread here) you can view some pictures of what to look for... I took one apart and took pictures of everything compared to a normal truck.

Wow, incredible restoration!

 

[Shran]

Wow, incredible restoration!

Thanks! It's been a fun project.

 

[gaz]

How much did you end up paying for it at the junkyard? I feel like adding up all the pieces I'd end up paying most of what the kit would cost new at the junkyards here in California haha.

$50 for the pitman arm, all 4 drop brackets, front springs, the radius arms, the front sway bar with all brackets/hardware and both complete rear spring packs.

The owner felt like he had the best part of the deal after watching me pull those parts from the yard with only hand tools.

 

[bobbywalter]

2 inch spacers net more then 2 inches of lift. There was a "radical" 2.75 degree bushing for the d 28 at one point but not sure these days.

 

[4x4prepper]

If I were you, I would go with a 3" body lift. Barring that, 1.5" billet aluminum spacer (not the cheaper painted Delrin plastic) for the front. I would skip the 2" springs, they tend to bow out.

By now you need new body mounts anyway, so, you might as well do it the right way. Buy the mounts, hardware kit, and body lift from James Duff for about $300 and be done with it. I would lift the bed at the same time with 3" tubing at each bed mount and do NOT put a beam rail to rail. As it can block access to the gas tank you just created.

Now if you do rail to rail behind the cab, it does provide a secure mount for a winch in the truck bed. Basically a rail under the bed and then a rail in the bed, with both rails attached by the same bed bolt. So, you do not drill new holes in the bed. I have never regretted having a winch in my full sized truck bed. As an example with only a 5k boat winch in my F-100, I winched a big 36"+ DBH oak tree right over, and it makes loading cars onto trailers much easier.

if I do not go with a James Duff suspension lift, since I already put in the 2" add a leaf in the back of my B2, I plan on buying something such as this:

1.5" Silver Lift Leveling Kit Fits 83-96 Ford Ranger 4WD 4X4 w/ Stud Extenders

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The body lift opens up many possibilities for upgrades including later v-8 engine swaps, while keeping the center of gravity lower. What I did with one B2 I had, I added a 3" lift, then I ran true 2" dual exhausts without the cross over pipe down, each side of the B2 and they exited between the body and rear under the rear hatch. This made the 2.9L MUCH more responsive along with teh cherry bomb mufflers. Plus, gave the B2 more off road clearance (water fording) and even more important, it would not stuff the B2 exhaust full of snow (or mud) when backing forward and backwards off road in deep snow drifts. You CAN jam your exhaust hard enough off road to break the flange on your exhaust manifold ...

 

[franklin2]

With a 3 inch body lift I think I would convert to an electric fan. The body lift fouls up your mechanical engine fan and puts it a little too low in relation to the radiator.

 

[4x4prepper]

You are sort of correct in that, but, after market electric fans pretty much stink compared to the engine driven fan. I tried one of the best at Summit and removed it after going through the hassles and motions of adding a 40 amp relay and extra wiring. Now, adding a fan from a Taurus that pulls 40 amps, that might be an okay all electric upgrade with the fan shroud, but, many RBV only came with 60 amp or so alternators from the factory. I would consider adding an electric fan for idling while keeping the stock fan and modified shroud, though at any sort of driving speed, the lift makes it cooler under the hood, from experience.

 

[Northidahotrailblazer]

With a 3 inch body lift I think I would convert to an electric fan. The body lift fouls up your mechanical engine fan and puts it a little too low in relation to the radiator.

I've had a 3" body lift with the stock mechanical fan for years. This summer it was well over 100* pulling the mountain pass's to work and never had an issue. I also at one point never had a fan shroud also and I never had any over heating problems. 2.9 or 4.0....... I'm also lifted and big tires never had issues. Just my experience anyways......

 

[4x4junkie]

I lowered the fan shroud on mine (2" body lift). I used pieces of thick sheetmetal to reattach it to the radiator. No issues.

 

[RustyDusty]

So I stopped by a local wrecking yard that has a lifted ‘86 ranger and snapped some pics of the hardware. Curious if any of you are able to ID this kit. The shocks say rough country but I’m wondering if this is the one this website warns everyone about because of potential damage to the differential with the poorly made drop brackets. The owner of the yard said he’d want around $200 for all the components. There might be some wiggle room on price when he better understands the components I’d be taking. I believe it’s mainly just the drop brackets for the radius arms, front coil springs, shocks all around, blocks in the rear, u bolts, and maybe a pitman arm and the camber bushings? Looks like it also has a steering dampener I supposed came with the kit as it also says rough country. Am I missing anything? If this is one of the more expensive kits then it’d be worth the effort of prying everything off even at $200 but I don’t really feel the same way if it’s just a $5-600 kit new. Here’s some pics if anyone can help me with an ID and if it seems complete:

 

[franklin2]

However cheaply made it is, that will be the better way to lift it than just using spring spacers or taller springs. If it ends up having the cheap brackets, you could probably beef them up if you had a welder.

 

[4x4junkie]

Yeah that looks like a Rough Country kit.
The main problem with those kits is the drop plate extension used to drop the OEM bracket for the passengerside axle beam. It is possible to modify it, but is bit of work (and does require a welder and a gusset or 2 to have it remain sturdy)

A friend of mine bought an Explorer Sport with said kit on it a few years back... Rather than ditch it, we beefed up the brackets, cut the offending part off the drop extension & OEM bracket, put on a set of extended radius arms, new steering, and XJ springs, and it actually turned out pretty well.

A few pics of the modded brackets:

 

[SenorNoob]

That modded bracket looks very similar to the Skyjacker bracket. Actually looks heavier.

 

[4x4junkie]

That's kindof what we were going after when widening the bracket for the driverside axle (the design of the STX Highrider bracket came into play too). I've seen another kit that had a similar (but less robust) brace for the passengerside axle bracket, though I don't remember what brand it was.

 

[RustyDusty]

I think I'll go grab the rough country lift kit from the yard tomorrow and maybe I'll make some modifications to the drop bracket. If the shocks on the truck are shot does anyone know what my options are for buying new ones all around with the 4" lift? Do I need to buy some new rough country shocks specifically or do I have other options that will reach? And more importantly it sounds like with a 4" lift I should move up to 31" tires. Would I need to re-gear if my truck has the F7 axle? Apparently that would be the 4.10 limited slip. Thanks