Cab mounts

[adsm08]

I really don't know. On a truck that old that's a job I'd charge straight time on, require all new hardware with, and probably start the bidding around 5 or 6 hours.

I don't know what your guy charges for labor.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Got the prothane mounts, he's been kind to me lately if I bring it in when they aren't jammed up.
I'm finally feeling like I have a good truck if I can just save the frame & underside ?

 

[adsm08]

Don't fix your PS leaks. That will help with the rust.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Maybe I can run a drain hose from it to the back frame! ?

I alsohoping, as you mentioned previously and another thread Adsm, the cab will have more clearance for future transmission remove-ability. we had a terrible time getting over the crossover pipe because it kept hitting the bottom side of the hump!

 

[Denisefwd93]

Oh I've been busy working on boats with a new friend!

Anyhow, to those of you that are still tuned into my posts? I have a question about these cab mounts!

Do I want to get the new mounts in place with the nuts on the bottom instead of inside so that when we do
or have the new clutch done, the cab can be lifted and transmission can clear the crossover pipe? (it was a beach when we changed out the transmission)

Assuming that y'all understand what I just said.. how high can the cab be tilted fwd, before something breaks or snaps off?

 

[adsm08]

I have been able to lift the cab several inches in the rear without undoing the core support bolts, and I didn't break anything. It did make trans removal easier, although I still took my Y-pipe out, but I also have headers that get really tight to the trans.

I'm gonna say I ran out of space at about 2 inches. I got it high enough to be able to lay some 2x4 between the cab and frame.

 

[bobbywalter]

Dont usually have a problem getting a manual out unless the mounts are destroyed and it's sitting literally floor on the frame..... then I just jack it up and wedge 4x4 blocks between strong parts of the floor and frame. If there is any.

Are you opposed to a 1 in spacer lift?

On edit I read first page and see your ok with it.


Regulation nhl pucks are stronger and will Outlast anything you can buy from the store that bolts on. I have destroyed 3 nylon 3 in lift pucks and still used the same nhl pucks on top.

So new urethane mounts with a nhl puck likely work good but also probably not needed.

The bigger issue is the base steel of the cab mounts themselves....I usually have to weld new metal in. Or shortly after because the urethane is stiffer and wastes the deteriorating metal quicker.


Got to look at it careful

 

[Denisefwd93]

I have the new poly mounts,. Didn't get new bolts yet, but yes Bobby, the cab is pretty much sitting on the rail. I can hear it when it goes down the road tacking clacking shaking all the stuff that goes along with the ownership of a old Ford ranger.

I may have the clutch done I'm just getting, well I am too old, and my friend Hank isn't much younger than me lol

Thank you gents!

 

[bobbywalter]

Are you in Philly? I am up in tunk area still. Too far just to look. But you want to know if the steel face on the brackets is hashed before anyone tears onto it.

Is clutch slipping or just pm based on age and miles.

 

[Denisefwd93]

Just getting site haven't done much at all, but the truck is in the yard! Front to back, pictures will explain, more soon!

 

[Denisefwd93]

The very front underneath the radiator area mounts are the worst. Middle and rear it's more it seems about the washers then the rubber itself,

What should I do for washers use large fender washers or get a OEM style?

 

[ericbphoto]

Depends on the cost. If OEM are expensive, I would just get a piece of sheet steel of an appropriate thickness and make my own.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

You could also try a bolt supply warehouse.

 

[Denisefwd93]

getting bolts is not a problem.

I think what I'm asking is the inside washer bushing, is that unlikely to be rusted away because it's encapsulated by the old rubber? pictures of the new ones they have a metal bushing but it doesn't go all the way through and it seems to have a 5/8 ID which if I remember right is the size of washer bushing, which also is the OD size of 1/2" copper tubing.

I approach projects with "preparation is everything"

 

[Denisefwd93]

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