Another A4LD to M5OD Swap

[dcpppf]

Been fighting with my A4LD for a bit now and after all of my research I figured M5OD was worth it over getting the A4LD rebuilt.

I've read numerous threads and watched every youtube video I could find, but still figured I'd post up here. Most of the threads i'd seen were pretty old so if anyone has done this semi recently and had any newer tips/tricks i'm all ears.

I started some disassembly last night, but plan to take my time. First hiccup was getting the auto and 4x4 shifter knobs off; think i need to just pull hard, but not positive.

Other than that any info (pics/videos) on how to install the clutch pedal assembly would be helpful. Couldn't find a ton of info there either. Rest of it doesn't look so bad.

 

[NakedDucks]

I used a small block of wood and a hammer. Lightly tap to remove the knobs. Be careful bc you can break them.

Be sure you swap the computer. The auto and manual trans have different ones.

Driveshafts *should* be the same. I could be wrong here, but I haven’t had an issue with mine.

There is a plate in the floor on the trans hump that is removable. Get the correct one, or cut yours. Measure 5 times, cut once!!

 

[dcpppf]

I used a small block of wood and a hammer. Lightly tap to remove the knobs. Be careful bc you can break them.

Be sure you swap the computer. The auto and manual trans have different ones.

Driveshafts *should* be the same. I could be wrong here, but I haven’t had an issue with mine.

There is a plate in the floor on the trans hump that is removable. Get the correct one, or cut yours. Measure 5 times, cut once!!

Thanks guy, I'll get more ham fisted with the knobs tonight. Computer is on the list to grab when i go get the trans. According to my research I agree that the driveshafts should be the same as well since the overall lengths of the two transmissions are the same. sure as hell hope that's true at least.

that plate in the floor... Is that where the auto/4x4 levers come thru the floor or is that further towards the rear and covered by the carpet? Since I haven't gotten the levers off yet I can't tell, but on the explorer vids seems like everyone has their seats out and the hole in the floor is MUCH bigger than what my levers look like they'll open up.

 

[NakedDucks]

The floor plate is where the shifter come through.

It bolts in.

 

[NakedDucks]

Location

 

[NakedDucks]

What it looks like.

 

[JMF661]

How are you going about acquiring the components for your swap? Just just yard diving?

I am interested in performing this swap as well and am curious as to how your experience went.

 

[RonD]

Your current brake pedal assembly needs to come off and then you bolt in a clutch brake pedal assembly in its place

The assemblies are year specific, 1984-1988 might be the same, then 1989-1992 are different

Yes, on a 4x4 the drive shafts should be the same because of transfer case, so auto or manual shouldn't matter

M5OD-R1(M5R1) model manual is the best one to use, but it is engine specific(bell housing doesn't come off)
If you have a 2.9l then you can use one from a 4.0l 4x4, 1990-2011
If 2.3l engine then you can only use an M5R1 from a 2.3l 4x4

 

[Shran]

Seems to me you can get the pedal assembly out without completely removing the dash but you will need to remove the gauge cluster for sure to gain access to the upper support bolts.

I would try to stick with a pedal assembly for 1988. It is a one year part, older ones fit but are slightly different, '89 up will not work.

You can use your automatic ECM, just minor wiring changes involved so that the engine will start. I would; no reason to spend any money on a manual trans ECM in this case.

 

[NakedDucks]

M5OD-R1(M5R1) model manual is the best one to use, but it is engine specific(bell housing doesn't come off)
If you have a 2.9l then you can use one from a 4.0l 4x4, 1990-2011

Not entirely true.

Yes, you can use a 4.0 trans behind a 2.9, but you’ll hate yourself. The 2.9 and 4.0 use different gear sets. If you use a 4.0 behind a 2.9, you’ll notice a huge loss of power. The ratios are to “tall” for the 2.9 powerband, where as the 4.0 will “run out of breath” if you bolt a 2.9 trans behind it.

 

[Shran]

The difference between the 2.9 M5OD and 4.0 M5OD is essentially one step in factory axle gearing - for example going from 3.55 to 3.73 or vise versa. I'm not sure you would really notice much difference and regardless, it's well within what a 2.9 is capable of. In the right application it might actually be kinda nice because you could let 1st and 2nd gear run a little longer before shifting. The FM-145 in my '87 has the same gear ratios as the 2.9 M5OD and I sometimes wish they were a little taller, 1st and 2nd in particular. I would not hesitate to use a 4.0 trans.

 

[NakedDucks]

I did it with 3.73’s, and a fresh built 2.9 bored .20 over, and couldn’t hardly pull a greasy string out of a cats ass.

The 2.9 will spin the tranny gears, but not in any rush and surely not have any torque.

But each his own.

 

[dcpppf]

Thanks for the insight on the brake/clutch pedal removal... I guess I was just thinking that'd be a few bolts I could get at with ease and not tearing the cluster/dash out. I also was unaware they changed those from year to year; figured anything from 84-91 or so would work (my trans is coming out of a 91 so I was hoping to just rob that clutch pedal honestly). So thanks for that heads up!

I've got a 2.9l currently and the new trans is out of a 2.9l as well so trying to keep it similar on that front.

As for sourcing parts yeah i'm junk yarding most of them, but buying new slave cylinder, throw out bearing, clutch disc (and maybe pressure plate), and probably flywheel. I'll see how these ones look in the trans once I get to the yard this weekend, but is one of those things I don't want to have to pull the trans again right away if I just have to spend a bit more money for new.

As for the shifters... I got the auto one off last night and am just going to try to leave the 4x4 shifter on. Looks like the plate will slip out over the knob and it'll just be in the way a bit lol. Tonight I'll be looking in to getting the brake pedal assembly out

 

[NakedDucks]

If you have a 2.9, do yourself a huge favor and use the 4.0 clutch. The 4.0 is basically a bored and stroked 2.9.

The 2.9 clutch is 8 7/8” whereas the 4.0 is 10” and will swap directly on!!

You need:
-The flywheel (I recommend replacing the pilot bearing also, but not needed)
-4.0 clutch and pressure plate
-4.0 starter and wire. Has to be from a 4.0 manual truck.
-The 4.0 trans dust plate. The 2.9 will work, but you’ll have to make the hole bigger so the 4.0 starter will fit.

I have a good starter and can get you a wire if needed.

It’s a worthwhile swap and you’ll be very happy with the results.

 

[RobbieD]

Other than that any info (pics/videos) on how to install the clutch pedal assembly would be helpful. Couldn't find a ton of info there either. Rest of it doesn't look so bad.

"For what it's worth"- yours is an '88, I've done this on a 1990, so close but not exactly identical.

On mine, on the pedals it was much easier to dismount the parking brake and fusebox, and slide the auto pedals out of the bracket, and then slide in the manual pedals. By "dismount" I mean remove the mounting bolts so you can move the fusebox and parking brake out of your way to clear sliding the pedal shafts out of and into the bracket. While you're doing it this way, you can also replace the plastic bushings on the shaft (Dorman makes kits of new ones for this, most parts stores have them or can get them), and make the pedals tight and smooth.

Again, I can't tell you for sure that an '88 will be the same, but it's worth looking at.