The pictures posted are of the reduction gears not the motor, the cover plate with the 4 or 5 wires, over the larger gear, are for the "contacts", which are, in essence sensors, for the control module, and do not power the motor, they "tell" the controller the position of the larger gear, which would be the position of transfer case shift rod
The electric motor is the black cylinder and its Brushes are the usual problem when you have intermittent issues
Motor is powered by the 2 wires that enter the housing at a different location from the others
Picture here of housing with electric motor removed:
https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/rebuild_transfer_case_shift_motor/rebuilding_a_ford_transfer_case_shift_motor-4.JPG
Brushes seen hanging
Picture here of the Rotor contacts for the electric motor, these need to be cleaned:
https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/rebuild_transfer_case_shift_motor/rebuilding_a_ford_transfer_case_shift_motor-8.JPG
Picture here of the brushes, springs and holders:
https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/rebuild_transfer_case_shift_motor/rebuilding_a_ford_transfer_case_shift_motor-9.JPG
The springs go into the holders first, then the brushes, when assembled, the springs push brushes out to hold them in contact with the Rotors contacts
This setup allows the Rotor to turn while maintaining an electrical connection, all electric motors operate this way, except "brushless" which are not available for these shift motors.
Picture here of the brushes, springs and Rotor in place:
https://therangerstation.com/tech_library/images/rebuild_transfer_case_shift_motor/rebuilding_a_ford_transfer_case_shift_motor-13.JPG
The brushes can get stuck so spring can't push it down, or spring can break so not enough force to hold brush against the Rotor.
Rotor's contacts can get corroded so voltage doesn't transfer between brush and Rotor
Quote: The pictures posted are of the reduction gears not the motor, the cover plate with the 4 or 5 wires, over the larger gear, are for the "contacts", which are, in essence sensors, for the control module, and do not power the motor, they "tell" the controller the position of the larger gear, which would be the position of transfer case shift rod
The electric motor is the black cylinder
I am perfectly clear on this and thanks.
Quote: and its Brushes are the usual problem when you have intermittent issues
Im assuming you mean intermittent motor just plain not spinning issues? Up until this point Ive been told by everyone that light blinking on dash is MOST likely an indicator of the little knub inside the housing that either gets squished/deformed out of shape or just falls apart in which case the sensor dosent park correctly and the GEM gets confused.
Sound correct still?
So here again are my observations/questions and I understand you have prob forgotten more than I may ever know about Ranger but maybe ( and its OK ) you will just not have an answer
Here are 2 motors,
https://postimg.cc/Q9BkBsZD the one on the left was removed from a 2000 ranger this weekend, the one on the right is out of my 98, dont know if it is original but I would assume.
Look down into the cavity, two different castings, the one on the left has a raised area to presumably act as a stop for the knub/pin deal.
The one on the right ( out of my 98 with the black motor housing ) has a plastic insert down in there with half moon cut-outs to accept ( what I am assuming to be complete and not missing a nylon or plastic knub ) the steel pin that I will show in the next picture.
Here is the next picture
https://postimg.cc/Kkd7BVmM
Again one on left 2000 ranger and right my 98
The one on left has the familiar plastic or nylon knub over what appears to be a Phillips head machine screw, mine on the right has a steel dowel that appears identical in size to mate with the plastic/nylon female receptacle down in my housing that I showed in previous pict.
Moving on lets talk about how to access the contacts......
https://postimg.cc/0KDYffNH
As you can see I have taken a screwdriver and have chipped away at the edge of the housing, as I hope you can see in the next couple of pict I dont see how to access anything inside as far as contacts, yes the base is a separate piece but because of its conical shape the only real way that I can see it being removed without being destroyed would be thru the top and yet I dont see that as possible either so can someone tell me how to open this thing up properly?
https://postimg.cc/kDbvqnyF
https://postimg.cc/0b1dNLWg
Thoughts, comments, suggestions welcome.