3.0 turbo questions

[Trick450r]

i was looking this afternoon at the flowmaster exhaust that was on the truck, and it looks like the drivers side swings right down and under the oil pan to the passenger side. I think i may just cut this exhaust apart, put a 90* on the end of it and come right up next to the passenger side manifold which will be flipped, put a 2 into 1 right ontop of that manifold right into the turbo. That way i dont even have to flip the drivers side. Then i will run the downpipe down behind the crossover pipe into the rest of the flowmaster.

My turbo has 3 banjo bolts in it for oil. I can just use one as my feed, one as my return and cap the last one right?

I found out my turbo is off a saab 900...it is a t25 and the wastegate is set at 8 psi, im gonna work with this turbo for the time being...putting a t3 flange on later and redoing it around that is not something i consider a big deal.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

routing the exhaust that way is a little more complicated, but ive always thought it gives a much cleaner look to the engine compartment...not to mention i dont like passing a hot exhaust tube in front of the motor. i vote go for it. there is plenty of room on the passanger side to pass the drivers side 2" uppipe and a 2.5-3" downpipe. i think this will make for a very clean setup.

 

[Trick450r]

routing the exhaust that way is a little more complicated, but ive always thought it gives a much cleaner look to the engine compartment...not to mention i dont like passing a hot exhaust tube in front of the motor. i vote go for it. there is plenty of room on the passanger side to pass the drivers side 2" uppipe and a 2.5-3" downpipe. i think this will make for a very clean setup.

That was my other worry, that pipe is going to be pretty hot and you never know what its going to touch/melt while its rattling ontop of the engine. Plus ill have to remove it to do almost anything.
On rps their is like 3 guys in the 3.0 fi section looking at doing this, looks like i better get moving and beat em all lol. If i find the balls to hack apart the original exhaust, then fab work begins today. Otherwise ill hold off, finish my firebird and put the ranger inside and start on it next week sometime.

 

[turbo cat]

as long as nothing is touching the pipe everything will be fine. I have my headlight harness only a few inches from the turbine housing with no issues. I also have the hotside only about an inch from the radiator with no issues there after a year as well.

 

[fixizin]

I'm getting bit by the 3.0Turbo bug BIG time!... lol.

Anyway, with Trick's proposed tidy exhaust routing, if I'm picturing it accurately, you have hugely UNequal flow lengths between the right manifold (almost ZERO), and the left (several FEET)... any problem? Backpressure? Heat differential?

 

[turbo cat]

it dosent matter as the biggest restriction is the turbine housing itself

 

[Trick450r]

I'm getting bit by the 3.0Turbo bug BIG time!... lol.

Anyway, with Trick's proposed tidy exhaust routing, if I'm picturing it accurately, you have hugely UNequal flow lengths between the right manifold (almost ZERO), and the left (several FEET)... any problem? Backpressure? Heat differential?

shouldnt cause a problem. Seen many aftermarket turbo "kits" for all kinds of cars where the crossover is way longer than the manifold the turbo is on. Once the exhaust reaches the turbo it is not going to matter, the pressure will be the same anyway. So it will be running on one bank for about 2 seconds on startup lol.

Took some messurements today, everything is looking good, going to pick up my parts to make my crossover and 2 into 1 today or tomarrow, and may get the flange and turbo on that next week sometime when its in the garage.

Question, i have an fmic and piping but im thinking for 6-8 psi i prolly wont need one just yet. I should be fine getting my tuning down and making sure everything is good to go before retrofitting the fmic correct?

 

[fixizin]

No, I would posit that if your FMIC is as effective as it's supposed to be, then it would have quite a significant effect on tuning.

But hey, if it gets you going sooner "under boost", and practicing your tuning skills, then have at it without, and plumb it in later.

If you blow up anything, I will say "thank you brave soul, for saving me from that mistake"... lol.

 

[Wicked_Sludge]

fixin is right. the FMIC will have a significant impact on the tune. if you choose to run without it now, you will have to retune later.

i would mount the FMIC now and be done with it. i dont like the idea of stuffing all that heat into a motor...but thats just me

 

[Trick450r]

fixin is right. the FMIC will have a significant impact on the tune. if you choose to run without it now, you will have to retune later.

i would mount the FMIC now and be done with it. i dont like the idea of stuffing all that heat into a motor...but thats just me

good answer, i honestly didnt know that it would be that detrimental to my tuning...im exited to put the fmic in, usually in turbo builds you dont have room like this ranger does lol.

 

[dieselboy740]

I found out my turbo is off a saab 900...it is a t25 and the wastegate is set at 8 psi,

That turbo is a restriction on a 2.0l engine. You will melt the wg housing fast. I melted a 13c wg hole at 10psi on a 2.3l. Go to the junkyard and get a real t3 off a 81-84 volvo 240 turbo if you want a .42/.63 housing or off a newer readily available 86-89 740 turbo for the .42/.48.. Or a dodge something or other with a t3. Even a small 15g turbo is better than that thing. Btw if you do turbo it get rid of the flowmaster muffler they dont get along with turbo's.

Edit: where you located? I have a t3 .42/.48 that has a flat flange that needs a rebuild send me 50$ and its yours. Its a water cooled turbo also.

 

[turbo cat]

I agree with the T3 comment. That turbo you have is tiny. It will cause backpressure issues which lead to elevated egts and detonation

 

[Trick450r]

I agree im going to get a t3 (dont have a local place to rebuild one dieselboy)
Which is better, coolant cooled turbo or oil cooled? or both lol?
Coolant would be much easier to hook up (no tapping of the oil pan)

 

[turbo cat]

water cooled dosent mean that you don't need oil hooked up. oil lubricates and cools the bearings. Some turbos have watercooled jackets around the center section to help prevent cooking of the oil which leads to coking up of the bearings. Also let the motor idle a few minutes before you shut her down to let the oil cool off a little.

 

[dieselboy740]

^ yeah you still have to have oil. Its just a safety to keep from coking the bearings. Coking occurs when you shut a hot turbo down and the oil in the center section boils and carbonizes and sticks to the turbo shaft eventually wearing out the bearings or causing total failure.
Ive built a twin turbo 5.0 in my old car, my truck is a turbo diesel, i have 2 volvo's that are well into the 300hp range and the other will have excess of 500hp. I run standalone megasquirt on the expensive one.

Im halfway tempted when i have the time to put two 13c turbos that i have on my BII with the 2.9 and see how quick i can crack the heads lol. Remember to keep the "up" pipes to the turbo a little thicker to keep them from cracking very easily. Btw its all trial and error ive learned alot since the beginning.