2007 Red Trailer 4X8 Utility Trailer

[Dirtman]

My trailer uses c channel for the tongue.
View attachment 64496

2 and they are probably 1/8th...it's spreads the load out way better than a long single.

I think you are still required by law to have a bolt through the A frame tounge? Anytime Ive done them I weld then drill a half inch bolt on either side. Not because I don't trust my welds, I think that's law...

 

[sgtsandman]

Looking at that thing... Yea that tounge is very long for being thin C channel... I dunno if I've ever seen a trailer that wasn't full square/rectangle. I'd be tempted to even weld some flat bar on the sides even when you replace it with full square tube for some extra resistance to twisting.

Most of the Chinese trailer are built like that. I got some better pictures now that the mud has dried and been cleaned off. The metal is just under 1/8" wall thickness, it looks to be about 3mm if I'm reading the calipers correctly. Stepping up to 3/16" should make a huge difference, not to mention that the lower stressed part is now solid metal.

Unfortunately, there isn't enough room between the angled portions to go wider or add flat bar. I was looking for 2.5"X2.0" rectangle tube but no one offers that dimension for whatever reason. I might be able to add some flat bar to the upper or lower side of the tube but I don't know how much that would help. One thing I did do to stiffen up the connection points under the tongue box is to order another triangle shaped T-Plate to place under the tongue bar and extending the length to take advantage of the third set of holes in the angle iron under the trailer where the tongue anchors to the trailer frame.

Since I no longer plan to fold the trailer up anymore or use the tilt bed feature, adding length to the tongue and adding an additional plate to bolt everything together under the tongue shouldn't be an issue.

Another issue that cropped up, but we found a work around for, was that the front offers no points to hook to without a coupler. So, I need to get rated eye bolts installed on the front corners to fix that. Maybe with some shackles.

 

[sgtsandman]

@Dirtman I've decided that I'm going to upsize the tongue a little. After laying the 2X1.5 next to the original bar, I don't like the look of losing about 1/2" in bar depth. So, do I order a 2.5"x1.0"X 0.125" to fill in the gap with both tubes laid out so that they look like this [][] or do I just order a 2.5"x2.5"x0.250" wall square tube? Weight wise, both would be about the same (55#). So it's either add to what I have or just get a bigger tube.

If the first, do I put the thinner tube toward the tongue jack or away from it (torsional load from the jack being off center)? Then I would have to see if I can talk the guys in the weld shop to weld it up for me.

I looked into the idea of welding .5"X2.5" flat bar on either side of the existing tube I have but man that would be heavy! 96# of weight hanging off the front of the trailer. I would never be able to get the weight and balance right with that.

 

[scotts90ranger]

If you already have the one stick, I'd get the other instead of getting a whole different thickness... and it shouldn't really matter on which one is on the tongue jack side, I'd probably put the thinner one next to it for more crush resistance though...

I might play devils advocate on having a welding shop do it, you'd probably be money ahead just getting a welder and doing it yourself... something like THIS and a $40 helmet will get the job done, and is a really easy welder to learn on... it's frigging tiny. It wouldn't need to be fully welded, a 2" weld every 6" would be sufficient...

 

[RustyShackleford94]

I could ditch that whole section from here forward

Then just bolt in a new piece of C channel of square tube. 3/16 or 1/4 would be plenty heavy for what it is. Thoses holes on top are 100% to blame for it breaking.

Disclaimer: Im not 100% clear on what your current plan is lol.

 

[sgtsandman]

I could ditch that whole section from here forward

View attachment 64563
Then just bolt in a new piece of C channel of square tube. 3/16 or 1/4 would be plenty heavy for what it is. Thoses holes on top are 100% to blame for it breaking.

Disclaimer: Im not 100% clear on what your current plan is lol.

The plan is to replace the entire tongue bar with one solid piece. The length is necessary for when I haul the canoe to make sure it doesn’t smash into the back of the tow vehicle and to have enough room for the winch and the tongue jack. The length can’t change due to the clearance issues.

The tongue broke on the bottom next to a weld where a reinforcement tab is. The top didn’t let go until the flatbed truck driver started dragging the trailer on the truck. Thankfully, the top held long enough to allow me to find a spot to pull over and clear the road. Otherwise, the trailer would have gotten to play in traffic and cause more issues.

Keep the comments, thoughts and recommendations coming. I have time to wait and do it right.

 

[sgtsandman]

If you already have the one stick, I'd get the other instead of getting a whole different thickness... and it shouldn't really matter on which one is on the tongue jack side, I'd probably put the thinner one next to it for more crush resistance though...

I might play devils advocate on having a welding shop do it, you'd probably be money ahead just getting a welder and doing it yourself... something like THIS and a $40 helmet will get the job done, and is a really easy welder to learn on... it's frigging tiny. It wouldn't need to be fully welded, a 2" weld every 6" would be sufficient...

I’ll consider it. I’ve been wanting to learn to weld. I’ve got plenty of metal to learn on now.

I was thinking a continuous weld the entire length to prevent water intrusion.

I figure the two together would have more strength because of the support in the middle of the bar once they are welded together.

The square tube has the benefit of being easier to do all the drilling and other fab work for me due to there being less things to drill through.

Keep the comments, thoughts and recommendations coming. I have time to wait and do it right.

 

[sgtsandman]

After talking to a couple other people, I'm leaning toward getting the 2.5"X2.5"X0.250" side wall. If you all think I'm making a possible error, please explain. Better to hash out the subject before I spend the money and I'm committed.

 

[ericbphoto]

I'm good with that

 

[snoranger]

1/4” wall seems overkill... I like overkill.

 

[ericbphoto]

I love overkill. Proud graduate of "Overkill School of Engineering".

 

[sgtsandman]

1/4” wall seems overkill... I like overkill.

The OEM tow bar was only 1/8 of an inch and wasn’t fully enclosed. For on road driving, I’m sure it’s fine. With me yanking it around on trails, I want overkill. I never had a warm feeling about such a thin wall because of the trails.

I was planning to replace the tow bar, just not this soon. It is possible that I killed it and didn’t know on previous trips that took me on trails. It just took a while for it to completely fail.

While the trailer is never going to be a true off road trailer, it IS going to see trails again. So, overkill seems to be in order.

I thank you all for your input.

 

[sgtsandman]

Oh, and the attachment is getting upgraded. Instead of a bolt and a clevis pin, plus a stud welded to the bar with a wing nut, it will get 3 grade 8 bolts underneath and a grade 8 where the stud was. Also, an additional tie in plate is going under the tow bar to more securely tie in the bar and the angled c-channels. I figure the trailer will get ripped apart before the tow bar fails after all that.

 

[RustyShackleford94]

Yeah i seent that picture of this thing loaded with wood and gear. Overkill is just right lol.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Going to the full on square tube is well within what I would call reasonable with everything you have attached to that tongue, it's thick enough you would be able to just drill and tap it instead of through bolts too which makes things cleaner... I wouldn't be against that option, but don't feel strong either way with the two tube idea since you already ordered the one...

Don't be afraid of welding, as long as you go overkill even when learning and making not perfect welds will get you a long ways. Those inverter welders work WAY the heck better than the old stupid 100-125A transformer flux welders, those things CAN work but you learn some really bad habits with only two voltage settings and a knob for wire speed... I know $200 isn't chump change but it isn't what it used to be either, for a handy individual it'll pay for itself in not too long...