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2007 Red Trailer 4X8 Utility Trailer


Roert42

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I wouldn’t say a trailer is a good first welding project, as we’ve already seen the results of a failure can be very dangerous.

Just make sure you do a bunch of practice in the same material/ position you plan to weld the trailer in. Plan to have someone with experience look at it and tell you how to improve.
 


scotts90ranger

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Good point, but if you do end up doing the two tube method any welds on the seam are not very critical, tongue bolts hold the front together, tongue jack holds it together just behind that, in the middle it's held together with the A part of the tongue and in the back it's held together in the rear bracket... The welds would mostly help it resist torsion which there SHOULDN'T be a lot of with a ball hitch...
 

sgtsandman

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The welds would mostly help it resist torsion which there SHOULDN'T be a lot of with a ball hitch...
The ball hitch is getting swapped with a Lock ‘N Roll hitch. Trail friendly, damn near theft proof. and rated for 11,000#.

 

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My credo
Its probably better to be self deprecating than self defecating.
The ball hitch is getting swapped with a Lock ‘N Roll hitch. Trail friendly, damn near theft proof. and rated for 11,000#.

In an age where gifs are as easy to make as skidmarks in your undies I really appreciate how they used stop motion for the demo clip lol.

Sweet hitch setup. How much does something like that hurt the wallet?
 

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In an age where gifs are as easy to make as skidmarks in your undies I really appreciate how they used stop motion for the demo clip lol.

Sweet hitch setup. How much does something like that hurt the wallet?
Off the top of my head, $430 for the hitch and coupler.

From what I remember back when I was researching the subject, a lunette ring and a pintle hitch was about the same. It accomplishes the same thing with out the potential binding issue and all the thumping and banging.
 

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The repair has started. I have a few more things I'm waiting for to come in and the rest I will get as I go. Anyway, I started drilling the tongue bar today. 8, 1/2" holes to drill starting with 1/8" bits and stepping up from there. My drill bits aren't long enough to drill straight through, so there was a bit of speed square and scribe work to make sure the holes line up. Tomorrow, I'll test fit to make sure none of the holes drifted.

 

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First test fit. Only screwed up the length on one eye bolt (too short. $12 mistake) and I need to open up a hole for the coupler.



New hitch combo

 

sgtsandman

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The final hole for the wiring and and safety chains has been cut and rounded. I used an 1 3/4" hole saw for the ends and an angled die grinder to connect the holes.



Just waiting on paint and bed liner to cure before I do the final coat. Speaking of which, I need to pick up more paint...
 

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The tongue bar replacement is complete. Now to move on to the counter balance/rock slider/spare tire mount surface for the back of the trailer to counter act the added weight in the front.





 

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If it theft proof simply because no one else on earth has a hitch like that or is their some inherently better locking mechanism too it than a standard ball trailer coupler lock?
 

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If it theft proof simply because no one else on earth has a hitch like that or is their some inherently better locking mechanism too it than a standard ball trailer coupler lock?
It’s a coupler and hitch combo designed for off road. Better articulation than a pintle hook and lunette ring with almost the same rating (11,000#) and without all the noise.

The anti-theft is just a side benefit.

Cost wise, it’s about the same as a pintle hook and lunette ring. So, zero sum game there.
 

Dirtman

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It’s a coupler and hitch combo designed for off road. Better articulation than a pintle hook and lunette ring with almost the same rating (11,000) and without all the noise.

The anti-theft is just a side benefit.
You should have added a surge brake coupler while you had it apart, just to make it even more theft proof. No one can figure out how to back up a trailer with surge brakes. :icon_rofl:
 

sgtsandman

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You should have added a surge brake coupler while you had it apart, just to make it even more theft proof. No one can figure out how to back up a trailer with surge brakes. :icon_rofl:
The original plan was to do that next summer along with an axle upgrade but the tongue broke. Just this project alone cost me about $800 with paint, hardware, and the couple/hitch set. It was about $440 for the couple and hitch. That doesn’t include the $203 it cost to get the trailer flatbedded home.
 

sgtsandman

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Finally got around to making a cover for the winch to protect it and the strap from the elements and sun exposure.

 

sgtsandman

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Got the rails with braces installed. Now I have to fabricate the brackets to mount the spare tire mounts onto. I have some left over 2.5”X1.5”X0.188 wall tube left that should work well along with the angle from the caster wheel mounts that were removed.





 

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