Glen66
New Member
- Joined
- Dec 20, 2015
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 0
- Location
- Nova Scotia
- Vehicle Year
- 2002
- Make / Model
- Ford
- Engine Size
- 4.0
- Transmission
- Manual
I've read a lot of posts on this and other sites regarding testing and troubleshooting my Ranger's charging problems but I'm stumped.
What happened and what I did:
The truck sat for a few weeks and when I last drove it, the battery light was on and the voltmeter was way below normal. I turned around and went home.
Battery voltage and alternator output were around 8 volts. I assumed it was the alternator which was 3 years old and 3 months out of warranty. To Napa's credit, they replaced it at not charge. Still no go.
I checked the cables, checked for voltage at the voltage regulator (the ISA 3 prong connector) and everything seems ok. I check just about every fuse in both panels and all were OK. I charged the battery and tried but it ran down and nearly stalled within minutes of starting the truck. I tried the battery out of my escape and it seems fine for a few minutes but then the battery light started to flicker on and the truck acted as if it was going to stall. The voltmeter on the dash was reading low. I put that battery back in the Escape before I ran it down.
While the truck was running on the Escape's battery, the alternator was only putting out 11.75 volts whereas I think it should be in the 14 V range. The Ranger's battery is exactly one year old and the Escape's is about 3 years.
My next step is to try to find a shop that can bench test the alternator and the battery.
Is it possible that the alternator is putting out 0 zero voltage and the reading I get by measuring the volts from the alternator post to ground is just the battery voltage being fed back to the post?
Based on my experience (although limited) a fully charged battery should run the truck for at least 30 minutes.
Is it possible that the battery AND the new alternator are shot?
What happened and what I did:
The truck sat for a few weeks and when I last drove it, the battery light was on and the voltmeter was way below normal. I turned around and went home.
Battery voltage and alternator output were around 8 volts. I assumed it was the alternator which was 3 years old and 3 months out of warranty. To Napa's credit, they replaced it at not charge. Still no go.
I checked the cables, checked for voltage at the voltage regulator (the ISA 3 prong connector) and everything seems ok. I check just about every fuse in both panels and all were OK. I charged the battery and tried but it ran down and nearly stalled within minutes of starting the truck. I tried the battery out of my escape and it seems fine for a few minutes but then the battery light started to flicker on and the truck acted as if it was going to stall. The voltmeter on the dash was reading low. I put that battery back in the Escape before I ran it down.
While the truck was running on the Escape's battery, the alternator was only putting out 11.75 volts whereas I think it should be in the 14 V range. The Ranger's battery is exactly one year old and the Escape's is about 3 years.
My next step is to try to find a shop that can bench test the alternator and the battery.
Is it possible that the alternator is putting out 0 zero voltage and the reading I get by measuring the volts from the alternator post to ground is just the battery voltage being fed back to the post?
Based on my experience (although limited) a fully charged battery should run the truck for at least 30 minutes.
Is it possible that the battery AND the new alternator are shot?