2000 explorer wiring diagram

[scotts90ranger]

Ok, my explorer needs some love... 2000 model year with 5.0L, I have a feeling I know where the issue is since there's a mouse nest under the upper intake manifold, but knowing where things go would help...

It's happened twice now that it's blown the 15A fuse for half the fuel injectors, O2 heaters and transmission shift solenoid stuff (based on the like 8 codes it got last time that went away when I put a fuse in it...)

If I could confirm the wiring is as expected I'll pull the upper intake manifold apparently and figure some things out...

Thanks!

 

[RonD]

I have a 1998 V8 diagram and is this fuse #13 in engine bay fuse box, 15amp?
If so its the same for 2000 wiring

And it doesn't power any injectors, I would be very surprised if it did in any year

It does power all the O2 heaters(3 or 4), EGR solenoid, 4 transmission solenoids, and EVAP solenoid

Most common reason for this fuse to blow is an O2 sensor harness got to close to exhaust pipe/manifold, so melted and shorted, can even be a bad O2 sensor heater
Only 3 or 4 of them to check so run your hand along each harness and see if you feel any "odd spots"
These also get pinched between bell housing and engine when reinstalling either

You can unplug EGR solenoid and then EVAP solenoid, either will set codes but still drive-able

Fuse should blow with just key on if its a direct short, or may take a few minutes if indirect, engine running might take less time because of the higher voltage

If it does blow then you can unplug the transmission harness and try again, not drive-able but if fuse holds then you have a shorted wire or solenoid inside the transmission

You can use an OHM meter as well on Load side of the Fuse, non-12v side
But ohms will be lower with heaters and solenoids, I would expect higher than 200 ohms if no shorts

Diagrams 3 and 4 are the ones with fuse 13 wiring

 

[scotts90ranger]

Thanks Ron! I'll look into it next weekend, getting sent out for work Tuesday afternoon through half of Thursday...

All I know is when it goes out it runs like garbage, I was at a stop sign trying to cross a highway last time and once it got bad enough I had to shift into low range and floor it to cross the intersection like I just let off the brake at idle running normal... changed the 15A fuse (I don't remember which spot, but I bet you're right). The first time it went out I was hunting in the woods about 15 or so miles from town, last day of season after waiting for it to get dark, shifted like a shotgun and only had two gears and ran like garbage... . At least the second time I still had a spare fuse and knew what to look for...

 

[scotts90ranger]

Finally tore the upper intake manifold off tonight, unfortunately they just made a nest and didn't chew on any of the wires, now I have to chase down the circuits and find the problem...

I did look and the two fuses that are blowing are 10 and 13, so now it's time to dig into Ron's recommendations... I put the transmission in last around 3 years ago so I don't think I pinched a wire, but it happened when I was driving spirited on logging roads, lots of sticks and low hanging exhaust... O2 heaters would explain a lot, that would be low voltage so it would add all the fuel and run like garbage and misfire and stuff possibly which is what it was doing... I'll get the thing on some ramps so I can roll under it tomorrow and poke around for smushed wires, and check the O2 heater resistance for good measure...

 

[scotts90ranger]

Found the drivers side pre cat O2 sensor heater wires rubbed through on the front driveshaft, so that's that... headed to town to grab gaskets to put the intake manifold back on...

 

[scotts90ranger]

Got it running again, only missed one vacuum line putting the upper intake manifold on... stupid MAF system does NOT appreciate that... . I'm pretty sure it's the cam sensor that's tied into fuse 13 that was causing the extreme runability issues...

Ok, next wiring question on this stupid beast... Fuse 10 (15A mini) blows if I push the horn button, while the fuse was still good and after I had just started it in park not moving the cruise control light on the cluster was flashing intermittently, figured what the heck and tried the horn and the interior lights dimmed indicating the fuse blew... So, clock spring or something mouse related? First time this happened was a little over a year ago, I had a roll of TP under the back seat which had been relocated to the glove box and related area by tiny rodents... after cleaning it out I pulled the glove box and checked for any signs of chewed wires and didn't see anything but there's wires everywhere on this thing... Fuse 10 in the drawings you attached is a 30A so probably a maxi (and since the mini's are marked mini in the rest of the drawings...) and goes to the powertrain circuit which has nothing to do with the horn or cruise control...