2.9l Fuel Fouling Number 3 Cylinder

[88 XLT Ranger]

exactly what do you mean by "popping"?

have you put a vacuum gauge on the intake?

"Popping"

What I hear is sharp tick---tick good misfire at idle once I give it quick throttle it pops it seam more within the intake plenum. On the road it bogs bad and I hear popping even going down the highway grade just a little throttle pop---pop. When the engine is under a load it pops at idle it ticks misfire. Today I fired it up as soon as I back out of the driveway it died I tried to start it on its own no go it seamed to be loaded up. I did the flooded deal put my foot to the floor turned it over it fired up. I haven't checked the vacuum I am not sure where to test it at on the engine and what the vacuum should be?

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Sounds like you have a random misfire issue. Believe it or not my brother had a bad distributor cap on his boat. It would run for a couple minutes then die. After it cooled down it would restart. He thought the clear fuel filter was getting clogged (you could see it wasnt clogged) and once he would change it it would cool down and run fine for another couple minutes. He swapped the old distributor cap on and it has run fine since.

Have you taken a compression test yet?

I have a new Borg Warner dist cap and rotor on it now I haven't done a compression test on it. The number three plug was burning fine yesterday all the way to town and back. Today its popping off the get go all the to town and back. I pulled number 3 plug it was carbon fouled I put a clean plug in fired it up misfiring I pulled the wire I her the pitch in the engine. It now misfiring on another cylinder it seams

 

[RonD]

You really need to do a compression test on all cylinders, to either take it off the table as the problem, or find out it is the problem so you don't waste your time on other things.

The "popping" reads like ignition timing is off, which could be physical Base spark timing, 12deg BTDC, or TFI module is acting up
2.9l firing order here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_9_Page.shtml
Needs to be checked............3 times by 4 different people, lol, easy to reverse things.

TFI module test here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml

Vacuum gauge is one of the oldest and BEST tools to have in the tool box for gasoline engines.
Testing info here: http://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html

Carb or fuel injection doesn't matter, points or electronic ignition doesn't matter, testing vacuum is just about air flow thru the engine, which can tell you a whole lot

 

[Hagan]

I agree 100% with Ron.

Do a compression test and check your engine with a vacuum gauge.

Trust me, I know all of this is frustrating. I was in the same boat as you 2 weeks ago with an F250 I just picked up recently. Had an intermittent issue where the fuel pump would shut off and the engine would die.

Keep diagnosing and don't give up.

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

You really need to do a compression test on all cylinders, to either take it off the table as the problem, or find out it is the problem so you don't waste your time on other things.

The "popping" reads like ignition timing is off, which could be physical Base spark timing, 12deg BTDC, or TFI module is acting up
2.9l firing order here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/2_9_Page.shtml
Needs to be checked............3 times by 4 different people, lol, easy to reverse things.

TFI module test here: http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/TFI_Diagnostic.shtml

Vacuum gauge is one of the oldest and BEST tools to have in the tool box for gasoline engines.
Testing info here: http://www.gregsengine.com/using-a-vacuum-gauge.html

Carb or fuel injection doesn't matter, points or electronic ignition doesn't matter, testing vacuum is just about air flow thru the engine, which can tell you a whole lot

Thanks Ron & Hagan


I bought a brand new Sunpro vacuum & pressure tester and a Sunpro compression tester kit. My friend had them never he never used them he needed the money hard times. Ok the vacuum test question? where did you guy's "T" into for the vacuum tester? and my next question when compression testing do need to pull all the plugs out first or can I do it one by one? now with your guy's help I hope to get to the bottom of this issue. I spent enough money on this it can being you down in a hurry. Again thank you for taking the time and effort in helping

 

[Andy D]

Tee into vacuum on the hose for the FPR. How are the vacuum hoses? I like vacuum gauges. I used the one I have to set the timing on the jeep. Highest vacuum,equals best timing at the distributor. When my timing light broke, I used the vacuum gauge and never looked back. I used a compression test er to discover the burnt exhaust valve on a Honda. A very useful tool. It is better to spend money on tools than on parts you don't need.

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

Tee into vacuum on the hose for the FPR. How are the vacuum hoses? I like vacuum gauges. I used the one I have to set the timing on the jeep. Highest vacuum,equals best timing at the distributor. When my timing light broke, I used the vacuum gauge and never looked back. I used a compression test er to discover the burnt exhaust valve on a Honda. A very useful tool. It is better to spend money on tools than on parts you don't need.

Thanks Andy

The vacuum hoses all look good I replaced one "Mr Pack Rat" ate through. I guess it as in his way the one on the brake booster I replaced years ago. I hope to get the vacuum test done today if this storm lets up a bit. I did notice there is two vacuum hoses going the air filter box top. One has vacuum going plenum the other don't it goes under the battery box not sure if that is the way it should be or not?

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

"Vacuum test results"

I just did the vacuum test taking the elevation factor in where at 4300ft with engine at normal temp

Idle 800rpm's smooth steady reading at 15 1/2 inches

Quick open and close of the throttle drop to 3 inches and rebound 21 inches

I also did the Pro Tip in my info sheet with vacuum tester to make sure it was connected right. I increased RPM's to 2500 for a few seconds it dropped to almost 0 I let off throttle back to 15 1/2 sheet said connected good

I did notice once fired up cold running crappy for a few seconds before it started running smooth again. I notice a sharp ticking sound coming from the coil. Once it started running smooth no ticking sound

I checked number 3 plug real quick burning clean and perfect engine running very smooth wish it stay that way

 

[JerryC]

At 2500, if you had vacuum and then it dropped, that is an indicator of a restricted exhaust system, typically the catalytic converter.

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

At 2500, if you had vacuum and then it dropped, that is an indicator of a restricted exhaust system, typically the catalytic converter.

Jerry

I appreciate your help very much maybe I didn't put that right I do have a way of that as I am not to computer smart. This was the "Pro Tip" on the Vacuum test sheet with gauge. Its to make sure your taped into the right vacuum fitting on the intake for testing. It states start engine and in-crease the rpm to 2500 for a few seconds while observing vacuum gauge the vacuum should decrease sharply towards 0 as you increase rpm from an idle vacuum reading between 15" and 22" as rpm returns to idle

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

I did an ignition coil test

My Chilton Repair Manual on the primary resistance test it should be 0.3-1.0 (ohms) mine is at 00.5 the secondary resistance test it should be 6.500-11.500 mine is at 7.17 looks like it is good

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

I need Vaccum testing 101

I just did another vaccum test the weather has been very rough here. Its now 30% outside I am a little over 4000ft elevation. I thought about what JerryC said about restricted exhaust. I drove to town today same results popping at the top of the highway grade popping all the way home. I let it sit 20min hooked the tester up fired it up running like crap than within a few seconds running normal again

Results at idle 16 inches real steady I brought it up to 2500 it gained to 17 inches. Once I let off it jumped to 19 inches than back to 16 inches. I did a quick hit of the throttle 16 inches drop to 0 inches quick than back to 16 inches. The strange thing the only way to start this thing now is to crank it over with my foot into the throttle a bit

I am just real tired of this popping issue it can't be a lifter once popping bogging if I put my foot down on the throttle it will go into low gear and rev up to 4000rpm's. I wish I had a spair computer to try I can't afford a new one any thoughts on this

 

[Mark_88]

It seems a bit low for normal engine and may indicate rings (which a compression test might show)...but your altitude could affect that...

Here is the link to the Tech Article on vacuum testing...

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Summer2003/VacuumLeaks.shtml

Being at higher altitude will lower your readings from that of someone at sea level...so...take a trip to the lowlands and bring your tester along...but it sounds like your ending is working as it should.

here is a bit more reading material that goes a bit into altitude...

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2011/05/check-your-engines-health-with-a-vacuum-gauge/

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

It seems a bit low for normal engine and may indicate rings (which a compression test might show)...but your altitude could affect that...

Here is the link to the Tech Article on vacuum testing...

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/Summer2003/VacuumLeaks.shtml

Being at higher altitude will lower your readings from that of someone at sea level...so...take a trip to the lowlands and bring your tester along...but it sounds like your ending is working as it should.

here is a bit more reading material that goes a bit into altitude...

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2011/05/check-your-engines-health-with-a-vacuum-gauge/

Thank you Mark


The first link I went through mine is "Normal Motor" by the reading on the animated gauge. Now when its running rough before it goes back to normal I did run out and see the gauge once it was like "Sticking Valves" animated gauge reading and it will cause ignition misfire. Now my question is if in fact a lifter does not pump up normal would this cause this effect? what baffles me the motor will rev up once trans goes to low gear. If a lifter issue the motor wouldn't rev up right? It does it cold or after being under a load hot

 

[88 XLT Ranger]

"Mark and TRS folks"

This sounds like a long.............shot when I was getting the 5 quarts of Lucas oil stabilizer at the auto store months ago. I told the parts guy there my issue he told me it may not be oil pressure issue in fact it could be a sticking valve and or lifter. He told me to use "Marvel Mystery Oil Top Cylinder Lubricant" with the oil. I thought no way what is this stuff more liquid waste of money. Has anyone ever used his stuff? maybe due to the lifter not pumping up sticking and not opening the valve thus fouling out the plug on and off like it is

I don't know