2.8 issues

[Jay_4_hut]

Unfortunately on the 2.8L with computer controlled carb (CCC) system a lot of the "smog garbage" is related to how well the engine runs and idles. A couple of more questions to help us:

Did the truck run OK to a point, and if so was something changed at the point your current problems showed up? (example: was it when the carb was rebuilt?)

What all have you removed or disconnected? Especially, since the carb's been rebuilt, is the solenoid on the rear of carb still in place and connected?

It's been over 10 years since I Durasparked mine, so it's been that long since I've dealt with the CCC system. I think if it were me, I'd start by temporarily disconnecting all of the vac lines at the manifold, plug the manifold vac ports and see if I could get the engine to idle. Then go from there.

Do you have a vacuum gauge, as a diagnostic tool? Very useful, and well worth getting one.

Does ccc would be on an 84 2.8? New with this stuff just trying to see if the duraspark is the best way and I’m not wanting to spend to much more money on this since I swap with a 4.0. Seeing if any other ignition and distributor combo could work with the external ignition that the duraspark offers.

 

[RobbieD]

Does ccc would be on an 84 2.8? New with this stuff just trying to see if the duraspark is the best way and I’m not wanting to spend to much more money on this since I swap with a 4.0. Seeing if any other ignition and distributor combo could work with the external ignition that the duraspark offers.

Yes, yours would be originally equipped with CCC.

If your eventual goal is swapping in a 4.0L, be sure that you research everything needed in order to do this on your '84 model.

ON THE OTHER HAND,
if your 2.8L engine is still basically sound*, be sure to also research the Duraspark conversion. There are articles in the tech section, and a lot of forum posts which can be found by searching.

* In post 5 you seem to say that you had to replace the head gaskets???

 

[RonD]

Shaking a PCV valve is popular way to see if the valve is stuck but doesn't mean the PCV Valve is working

The weight that rattles inside is heavy so when engine is idling the high vacuum will pull that weight UP, closing off the PCV valve which reduces Vacuum in the valve covers and crank case

Leave PCV Valve connected to its hose and pull it out of the valve cover
Start engine
Put finger over the under side of PCV Valve should be a slight pull, and RPMs should stay about the same, if a strong vacuum or RPMs drop alot then PCV Valve is not closing as it should at idle



When an engine is running every time a cylinder fires gases from that explosion "blows by" the pistons and rings and goes into the crankcase
This HOT gas also vaporizes some of the oil on piston sides and cylinder walls, this is where the oil vapor inside the valve covers comes from, no other part of the engine gets hot enough to cause oil vapor
This Blow-by(same as exhaust gases) used to be vented out the side of the crankcase and oil vapor would condense drip on the ground

PCV(positive crankcase ventilation) system was installed to reburn the Blow-by gases and any oil vapor, instead of sending it out into the air
Blow-by is low at idle, but as RPMs go up Blow-by increases
So the PCV Valve is made so it closes at idle(higher vacuum) and then opens as RPMs go up(lower vacuum)

 

[Jay_4_hut]

Yes, yours would be originally equipped with CCC.

If your eventual goal is swapping in a 4.0L, be sure that you research everything needed in order to do this on your '84 model.

ON THE OTHER HAND,
if your 2.8L engine is still basically sound*, be sure to also research the Duraspark conversion. There are articles in the tech section, and a lot of forum posts which can be found by searching.

* In post 5 you seem to say that you had to replace the head gaskets???

Yes I had to replace them assembled the engine back together, but before them the engine hasn’t ran for years. Once it was assembled mle all these issue are coming up.

 

[franklin2]

I would just go buy a new PCV valve. They are calibrated for their engine applications also. Possibly someone swapped in the wrong valve.

 

[Jay_4_hut]

The most research I’m doing seems like this engine takes a different kind of pcv and the one I have on it is bad for sure. So I’m on the hunt to buy one. And I’m checking to see what other distributor I can use and going to make my own if possible duraspark kit. What I did find out a Mustang II might be the winner and it’s has point but will need an external coil. But more to come with that as I’m researching.

 

[franklin2]

The most research I’m doing seems like this engine takes a different kind of pcv and the one I have on it is bad for sure. So I’m on the hunt to buy one. And I’m checking to see what other distributor I can use and going to make my own if possible duraspark kit. What I did find out a Mustang II might be the winner and it’s has point but will need an external coil. But more to come with that as I’m researching.

I am cheap. I just did this swap about 4 months ago. It's worth it. The hard part is finding a distributor. Parts for the 2.8 in the broncos and rangers is getting very difficult, finding 2.8 parts for a 70's pinto or mustang II is even harder. Everyone has to order it. I bought a distributor for a 1978 or 1979 Mustang II. I think the pinto is the same also.

My favorite place to get parts, rockauto is kind of a let down on this. They only have some sort of rebuild service. Hard to rebuild something you do not have in the first place.

I kept my eyes open for old pintos or mustangs sitting around locally, but most of them had 2.3 4 cylinders.

I can't remember exactly where I finally bought it from. It may have been Advance Auto. You can easily find a 20% off coupon when you go to their site or google it. But you can't pick it up in the store, you have to get it shipped to your house, they don't stock it.

Then I found out they had two different brand distributors Ford used. A motorcraft and a Bosch. I had no way of knowing which one they were going to send, so I had to wait, they take different distributor caps. They sent me a motorcraft. Found out the cap on the TFI distributor will not work. I had to go to the local store and they had to order it, the top part was a couple days to get, and the cap adapter on the bottom was a week to get. I suppose the top was possibly the same as a 300 six used, but the bottom adapter was 2.8 only.

Being cheap and wanting to use the original square TFI coil, I opted not to use the duraspark II ignition box, but instead bought a GM HEI module. I mounted it on a heatsink on the driver's side inner fender and wire it into the duraspark II distributor like this article explains. It works very good.

Spark It Up: How to Convert a Ford or Mopar Distributor to GM HEI

Feeding the coil with 14 volts instead of 7 improves spark intensity, improving throttle response, fuel mileage & even adding a bit more power.

www.streetmusclemag.com