2.3 intake manifold and carb options?

[itlives]

AND -it's bookmarked!
I got in both adapters. One from Esslinger ($95) and one from Summit Racing ($17). I'm sending the Esslinger back and getting the one you just linked to.
It's the carb I'm running now on my VW engine and I never get into the second barrel so I know it will be enough.
All this AFTER I drilled and filed the Summit adapter to fit the OMC intake. It didn't just bolt right on
I'll run the Holley 350 for awhile and see what MPG is. If it's good, I'll just keep the 32/36 as a back-up.
It's good to have options. What a country!

 

[Kenneth S]

AND -it's bookmarked!
I got in both adapters. One from Esslinger ($95) and one from Summit Racing ($17). I'm sending the Esslinger back and getting the one you just linked to.
It's the carb I'm running now on my VW engine and I never get into the second barrel so I know it will be enough.
All this AFTER I drilled and filed the Summit adapter to fit the OMC intake. It didn't just bolt right on
I'll run the Holley 350 for awhile and see what MPG is. If it's good, I'll just keep the 32/36 as a back-up.
It's good to have options. What a country!

Mine just did bolt on, I got mine a few years ago. I get 22 in the city, 26-27 on the hwy with 3.73 gears, 205/65/16 tires, OMC intake with the Holley 350 on it (my truck weighs around 3000 lbs)

 

[itlives]

Well , I don't know how they figure the gears in a VW. But I looked up some info.
Weight 4,982 lb.s with canopy (I don't have it)
forth gear 0.82:1
differential 5.375:1
Top cruising speed 68 MPH
I've never had it over 64
Right now I get around 22-24 MPG
I have a later trans for the conversion- top cruising speed 75 MPH.
I will put taller tires on it.
This is going to interesting!Ideally, I would like an easy cruising speed of 65-70 MPH with the 2.3.. That means I'm getting the best MPG at that speed.
We'll see!

 

[Kenneth S]

My truck with the 5 speed overdrive at 65 mph the engine is running about 3200 rpm, that's where I'm getting 26-27 MPG on the hwy.

 

[itlives]

I run about 3200 at 60 MPH. But my VW engine is air-cooled. They need rebuilding a lot sooner the the ordinary engine. That's another reason why it on it's way out.

I think I have almost all my parts to start assembling my engine. Time to call my friend!

 

[Kenneth S]

My brother used to build the old air cooled VW engines for racing, the cylinder heads take a real beating from the heat. The main case would get main bearing bores beat out of round.

 

[DrewNukesEm]

Alright guys, I'm back. I am currently running a .98 Autolite 2100 (smallest they make) that was OEM from a '63 Ford Falcon, or Mercury Meteor. I had to run a electronic choke conversion on it because I couldn't fit the automatic choke on, it was running into the side of the valve cover. It was still a tight fit and I even had to "massage" the valve cover with a rubber mallet to fit the electronic choke. It runs well and everything, however I am not getting the greatest gas mileage out of it and more importantly I am having trouble with a high idle, even after it is warmed up. Basically in regular driving, the idle is way too high, and I have to "punch" the throttle to kick the idle down as you would to take the choke off, which once I do it goes down to normal idle, but if I give it any gas after that, even just to move up in traffic a little, the high idle immediately comes back, then I punch it to kick it down. It is quite annoying and I have a feeling gas wasting as well. I'm pretty confident I have the idle adjusted correctly because after being kicked down it is right where it needs to be.

Since the issue is occuring when the engine is warmed up, I feel it would indicate a choke issue, specifically the choke not opening enough when warm, which may be the result of a linkage bind. However upon lots of research, I believe the problem is likely the electric choke. Apparently the early type choke on the carb you have was not made to be used with the electric caps. It wasn't until 1965 that the choke housing could accomodate the relatively shallower electric spring and cap. Now I'm sure the OEM choke cap would cure this, but it is not an option for me as I stated earlier, I simply cannot fit it.

I will first check the if anything is possibly binding, which who knows, it may be the problem, after all it didn't start doing this after it was all newly installed. It has only been the last few weeks it started to so I will definitely need to make sure that isn't indeed the problem before going on to another carburetor, but if the electric choke is the problem like I'm afraid of, I am going to be back on the search for a new carb.

I really want something daily driving reliable, good low end torque for when on the trail, and good gas mileage. I would like to hear more opinions, or suggestions on carb choices. I have narrowed it down to 4 or 5 that I am interested in.

1. Holley 250, 350 CFM manual, or can be converted to electric choke. This seems to be a pretty common carb to bolt up, mainly in the mini stock crowd, however my Ranger is a daily driver/trail rig, I am seldom in the 5,000 RPM range, where this carb seems to really shine, plus they aren't cheap.

2. Weber single barrel (34 ICT which is a no choke carb, or 34 ICH which is manual choke) or maybe an old Ford single barrel? I would like the simplicity, good gas mileage and low end torque I feel I would get from one of these carbs. I would just need to run a adapter plate to run on my 2 barrel manifold (which I have found one).

3. Weber 32/36 DGEV electric choke. These are favorites of Toyota and Datsun guys (among others..), and are awesome on a daily driver, and are actually made for 4 cylinder engines up to 2300cc. This seems like it would be a "best of both worlds" type carb when it comes to crispy throttle response, and higher RPMs as it is a 2 barrel progressive. I found a couple on transdapt's website, however I am unsure exactly what adapter plate would be the correct one. It would either be the 2040, or the 2086 I believe.

4. Weber 38 DGES electric choke. This is basically the performance version of the 32/36. It is a 2 barrel synchronous, so the gas mileage won't be as good but from what I have read, the performance is much better from this carb, especially if you have any engine mods, and or run bigger tires (which I am). It would use the same adapter as the 32/36, and isn't much more expensive, but in the long run it may be on gas, plus I would rather have crispy throttle response than have to wind the engine up to notice the performance increase (who knows, maybe it is an awesome throttle response, I'm not sure).

Like I mentioned above, I am looking for the best carb for daily driving reliability, low end/throttle response, and gas mileage, not so concerned with top end RPMs.

Thanks guys!
You can check my Ranger out with link below
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V

 

[Kenneth S]

I've found the Holley 350 cfm 2bbl to be the best as far as gas mileage, and power increase than any of the Webers. Should you do need to get the engine into the 5000 rpm range the Holley will "be there" while the others won't. I use the Holley 350 cfm (I found one remanufactured off of ebay for $100.00). I get 27 mpg on the hwy, 22 mpg in the city, better milage, and power than 32/36 Weber.

 

[DrewNukesEm]

Alright, sweet. Thank you Kenneth! Did you have to re jet? Or play with the power valve at all? Does the Holley clear the valve cover alright? With my Autolite I had to use 2 - 1" spacers, then like I mentioned, also had to "massage" the valve cover a little with a rubber mallet to clear the choke, which needed to be the electric because I didn't have enough room for the OEM auto choke. Do you have your Holley electronically choked, or manual?

 

[Kenneth S]

I did have play with the jetting a little bit (it's been so long I don't remember what size jets I'm running). I did use a #35 power valve. My choke is manual, and on mine since I used the OMC boat intake manifold I had to make a 1/2" thick adaptor plate to go from the Rochester 2bbl bolt pattern to the Holley 2bbl bolt pattern. I didn't have any valve cover clearance issues since the carb is mounted sideways.

 

[ricardo93]

ok guys I found this while looking for a fuel pressure gauge. I have bought all my parts for my carb here as they are local to me. but they didn't have this when I put mine together which would have saved me some headaches. oh well
http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/Dataresults3.asp?Kit_Nbr=K740-CU&Model=RANGER
you can buy the parts separate

so if i were to buy this kit, and a manifold from the junkyard, my intake set up would be complete, correct?

i currently have a dead 2300 efi model, and im looking to go carb'd, the esslinger build inspired me.

basically i have to rebuild my entire motor, either the head or the gasket cracked, i'm not sure yet, because i havent dug into yet, and my entire motor had around 3.5 gallons of gas and oil sitting in it for like 2 months so i'm pretty sure it sustained damage from that... i am on an extreme budget, so if you guys could help me out with basically a list of parts, and places for discounted parts it would be amazing, especially since this will be my actual first build and as of around december 12th it will be my 1 year anniversary with my truck so it's special to me.


thanks for all the advice and input i've gotten so far, once i start doing the work i'll post a build thread

 

[Kenneth S]

As long as you didn't run it too much with the gas in the oil it shouldn't have hurt it too much, BTW drop the fuel tank, and get all the gas out of it, if you let the gas made these days in it for too long it will rust the inside of the tank, plus the gas will turn into tar. On 2.3's the head will "usually" be cracked.

 

[ricardo93]

thanks for the info, i think it ran for a day or so before it broke down... but when it broke down, it lurched like i had gotten rear ended, so that would be the head cracking, correct?

well it sat and soaked for a few months so im pretty sure i have to replace the rear main seal and whatever other gaskets are down there and probably the bearings also

oh and i meant like a horrificly small budget is what im working with, i have like 200 bucks to work with right now, because i am jobless at the moment, i was thinking of getting the intake manifold and head from the junkyard, but the rest i need to stockpile info and such and find the cheapest places to purchase them.

 

[ricardo93]

I think it ran with the leak for a day or so

 

[Kenneth S]

Check the timing belt, and check the crank, cam, and ignition timing, it could have stripped some of the teeth off the belt, or jumped time.