1993 Ford Ranger Cranks but does not start

[Adrianm1821]

Hey guys new here and pretty new to the car scene as well i bought a 1993 Ford Ranger XLT 3.0L v6 automatic with 140,000 miles a few days ago and it was turning on and driving pretty well when this morning it didnt turn on. I tried my best and looked up posts and videos and this is what i have done so far:
1. I opened the air filter and sprayed starter fluid while someone started the car to rule out fuel issues. (I read somewhere thats what to do) and i here the fuel pump start up as well when i turn the key.
2. I replaced the ignition coil out for a new one.
3. I replaced the ICM.
4. The distributor cap and rotor looks like it was changed by previous owner but i have a new distributor, Distributor Cap, and rotor on the way to try and replace.
5. I bought spark plugs to change them out butthat will probably be tomorrow afternoon untill i can test/replace the old spark plugs.

any other ideas for me or anyone that has had a similar problem that can provide some insight? I would really appreciate it. This is the first car i have tried fixing up myself and im enjoying this as a hobby but it is FRUSTRATING!!

 

[RonD]

Welcome to TRS

Called 50/50 test
Spray fuel into the engine manually
If its starts, runs and dies then fuel delivery is the issue
If it doesn't start/fire then spark is the issue(or compression)
50/50 instant results

You didn't mention results of the test?
I assume it didn't fire at all
Its better to remove the Air Plenum(big air tube) from the upper intake(throttle body) and spray fuel directly into the engine for 50/50 test

Gasoline engines need 3 thing to fire/start
Spark, at the right time
Fuel, mixed with air
Compression, above 120psi

After cranking engine over pull out any spark plug and look at its Tip, should be WET with fuel, light the fuel with a match/lighter, should burn quick and easily, if not its NOT fuel, most likely water
All gasoline has some water in it, and water is heavier than gasoline, and will not mix with gasoline
"Bad gas" is gasoline with too much water in it.
So the water settles to the bottom of the gas tank where the fuel pump pulls in "fuel"
So a no start
And the water can cause no start with 50/50 test because the water fouls the spark plugs
So test a spark plug its FREE and easy to do
If Tips are DRY then no timing pulse so no fuel injectors are opening(read on)

1993 Ranger 3.0ls have separate spark and fuel systems
Spark is run by TFI module(ICU) and fuel is run by engine computer(PCM)

Watch the CEL(check engine light)
It should come on with key on, this means the PCM has powered up
Try to start engine
CEL should go OFF as soon as engine is turning, this means the PCM is getting a Timing Pulse from the TFI module/distributor
If CEL stays on then there is no timing pulse so no spark and no start
Test that the Coil is getting 12v with key on, same 12v powers TFI module, and Hall Effect sensor inside distributor

 

[Adrianm1821]

Welcome to TRS

Called 50/50 test
Spray fuel into the engine manually
If its starts, runs and dies then fuel delivery is the issue
If it doesn't start/fire then spark is the issue(or compression)
50/50 instant results

You didn't mention results of the test?
I assume it didn't fire at all
Its better to remove the Air Plenum(big air tube) from the upper intake(throttle body) and spray fuel directly into the engine for 50/50 test

Gasoline engines need 3 thing to fire/start
Spark, at the right time
Fuel, mixed with air
Compression, above 120psi

After cranking engine over pull out any spark plug and look at its Tip, should be WET with fuel, light the fuel with a match/lighter, should burn quick and easily, if not its NOT fuel, most likely water
All gasoline has some water in it, and water is heavier than gasoline, and will not mix with gasoline
"Bad gas" is gasoline with too much water in it.
So the water settles to the bottom of the gas tank where the fuel pump pulls in "fuel"
So a no start
And the water can cause no start with 50/50 test because the water fouls the spark plugs
So test a spark plug its FREE and easy to do
If Tips are DRY then no timing pulse so no fuel injectors are opening(read on)

1993 Ranger 3.0ls have separate spark and fuel systems
Spark is run by TFI module(ICU) and fuel is run by engine computer(PCM)

Watch the CEL(check engine light)
It should come on with key on, this means the PCM has powered up
Try to start engine
CEL should go OFF as soon as engine is turning, this means the PCM is getting a Timing Pulse from the TFI module/distributor
If CEL stays on then there is no timing pulse so no spark and no start
Test that the Coil is getting 12v with key on, same 12v powers TFI module, and Hall Effect sensor inside distributor

Yes the truck didn’t start with the starting fluid when i did the test sorry about that, so it randomly started yesterday afternoon after i just started fiddling around but now this morning again no start I did pay attention to the CEL this time and it turns on when the key is in and turned in the on position but when I go to crank the car and the engine is trying to start the CEL stays on. So I guess I will have to have a look at the distributor/TFI.

 

[RonD]

Yes, if CEL stays on when cranking there is no timing signal coming from the spark system
And if there is also no spark, then it will be distributor/TFI issue not wiring to computer

Get volt meter or 12v test light and check for 12volts at coil and TFI

 

[Adrianm1821]

Okay so i bought an ohms reader and i checked the wire with the plug at the end that goes into the ignition coil one side of the plug is reading 5v and the other side is reading .2v, so then i checked the rubber plug that connects from the ignition coil to the distributor cap and that is jumping around from 6v to 11.4v sometimes it reads 12v and a little higher, is that supposed to be jumping around or staying at a steady 12v? Funny thing after i checked all that i tried to start it and it turned on like yesterday perfectly fine but then in the morning it didnt want to turn on today and scared it will happen again tomorrow morning.

 

[RonD]

You set the Volt Meter for DC volts, 20vDC if that setting is available

First test on battery, key off
Black probe on battery negative, red probe on positive, should see 12.3v to 12.8v

Key on, retest battery volts, it will drop a bit
This is the voltage you should see when testing other parts

Black probe goes to a Ground, battery negative or bare metal on the engine
Red probe to the part/wire you want to test
Should see "Key on Battery volts"

Both sides of a coil should read the same voltage, if Volt meter is properly grounded

Distributor's hall effect sensor is powered by 12volts and and is grounded, then as the distributor spins the 3rd wire/signal wire will go from 12v to 0v and back each time a "vane" passes by the Hall Effect sensor, can really test this 12v on/off with a digital volt meter,
You can test if sensor is getting 12v and has a good ground



An OHM Meter setting is to test resistance or connection in an UNPOWERED circuit/wire

 

[Adrianm1821]

Yea i did all of that and those were the results i had.

 

[Adrianm1821]

Battery read at 12.6 when i tested it with the meter with car off. i did all of those steps again to double check and same readings rubber connection from ignition coil to distributor cap reading jump around from 6v to 11v and i was holding it still, and the power cord i guess its called the one that goes into the ignition coil is reading 5v and .2v.

 

[Adrianm1821]

Okay so update, the TFI/ICM (i think those are the same part but have different names?) has already been replaced and so has ignition coil, at first when it wasnt starting the check engine would stay on while trying to start, it randomly started working after i finished testing the voltage and put everything back together, now when i drive it when the car upshifts to a different gear their is a sort of stutter/thud and the gas pedal doesn’t raise the rpms for a second or two until the car kinda thuds into gear i hope this is related to my spark problem and not a bad transmission because it wasnt doing this before today, the only thing i have not changed is the distributor which will be here on monday i hope this fixes the problem 🥲

 

[RonD]

Yes, in a 2.9l or 3.0l it was called the TFI(Thick Film Ignition) spark module
In a 2.3l it was called an ICM(Ignition Control Module) spark module
In a 4.0l it was EDIS-6, lol
But ICM could be a generic term for any electronic spark unit

Every one will know what you mean using ICM, as long as you include year and engine size

In 1995 and up no more "ICMs", newer larger computer ran fuel AND spark both


You have an A4LD automatic, it only has 2 solenoids, Torque converter lock(TCC) solenoid and 3/4 shift solenoid

1st, 2nd and 3rd shifting is base on ATF fluid pressure and physical RPMs, no computer control, only 4th(overdrive) uses the 3/4 shift solenoid
So wouldn't be connected to spark system issues

 

[Adrianm1821]

Yes, in a 2.9l or 3.0l it was called the TFI(Thick Film Ignition) spark module
In a 2.3l it was called an ICM(Ignition Control Module) spark module
In a 4.0l it was EDIS-6, lol
But ICM could be a generic term for any electronic spark unit

Every one will know what you mean using ICM, as long as you include year and engine size

In 1995 and up no more "ICMs", newer larger computer ran fuel AND spark both


You have an A4LD automatic, it only has 2 solenoids, Torque converter lock(TCC) solenoid and 3/4 shift solenoid

1st, 2nd and 3rd shifting is base on ATF fluid pressure and physical RPMs, no computer control, only 4th(overdrive) uses the 3/4 shift solenoid
So wouldn't be connected to spark system issues

Thank you so much you have been a great help! because of you i got my truck started again, Now hopefully i can fix it with the distributor so that it will start up every time i try it lol. Hopefully i will not have any more problems after this lol thanks again.

 

[Darascal101]

Welcome to TRS

Called 50/50 test
Spray fuel into the engine manually
If its starts, runs and dies then fuel delivery is the issue
If it doesn't start/fire then spark is the issue(or compression)
50/50 instant results

You didn't mention results of the test?
I assume it didn't fire at all
Its better to remove the Air Plenum(big air tube) from the upper intake(throttle body) and spray fuel directly into the engine for 50/50 test

Gasoline engines need 3 thing to fire/start
Spark, at the right time
Fuel, mixed with air
Compression, above 120psi

After cranking engine over pull out any spark plug and look at its Tip, should be WET with fuel, light the fuel with a match/lighter, should burn quick and easily, if not its NOT fuel, most likely water
All gasoline has some water in it, and water is heavier than gasoline, and will not mix with gasoline
"Bad gas" is gasoline with too much water in it.
So the water settles to the bottom of the gas tank where the fuel pump pulls in "fuel"
So a no start
And the water can cause no start with 50/50 test because the water fouls the spark plugs
So test a spark plug its FREE and easy to do
If Tips are DRY then no timing pulse so no fuel injectors are opening(read on)

1993 Ranger 3.0ls have separate spark and fuel systems
Spark is run by TFI module(ICU) and fuel is run by engine computer(PCM)

Watch the CEL(check engine light)
It should come on with key on, this means the PCM has powered up
Try to start engine
CEL should go OFF as soon as engine is turning, this means the PCM is getting a Timing Pulse from the TFI module/distributor
If CEL stays on then there is no timing pulse so no spark and no start
Test that the Coil is getting 12v with key on, same 12v powers TFI module, and Hall Effect sensor inside distributor

Dude you are awesome. I have been trying to get my '94 to start after an engine swap and was beginning to think I had the timing off but using your advice in this post I was able to confirm it was a fuel delivery issue. The truck has set for 8-10 months and I think the gas has gone bad. Thanks for the post it helped ALOT!!

 

[Darascal101]

Dude you are awesome. I have been trying to get my '94 to start after an engine swap and was beginning to think I had the timing off but using your advice in this post I was able to confirm it was a fuel delivery issue. The truck has set for 8-10 months and I think the gas has gone bad. Thanks for the post it helped ALOT!!

The only bad thing is I think I am now going to have to pull the bed and replace the fuel pump

 

[helpme]

Pulling the bed back is not that bad on a 94. I changed the fuel pump by myself in an afternoon and that includes walking up to the OReilly's and back to buy a new one. But wait, you can do a really easy check for testing your fuel pump. After cranking, simply depress the stem on your schrader valve under the hood. If it squirts up to the hood your fuel pump is probably OK. If it dribbles out, then you've got a problem.
There's really 4 things you need to make an engine run. Air/fuel mixture, spark, compression and TIMING!!!

 

[Darascal101]

Pulling the bed back is not that bad on a 94. I changed the fuel pump by myself in an afternoon and that includes walking up to the OReilly's and back to buy a new one. But wait, you can do a really easy check for testing your fuel pump. After cranking, simply depress the stem on your schrader valve under the hood. If it squirts up to the hood your fuel pump is probably OK. If it dribbles out, then you've got a problem.
There's really 4 things you need to make an engine run. Air/fuel mixture, spark, compression and TIMING!!!

yeah I tried the Schrader valve trying to see if i could purge the air out. each time it barley dribbled out. Looks like I will be pulling the bed to replace the fuel pump. I pretty much only have myself to blame because I let it sit so long with gas in it and no stabilizer. I was hoping that wouldn't be the case since I can hear the pump prime. But first I will try the fuel filter.