07 level II YELLOW submarine

[MaicoDoug]

The're on their way...
Oiled paper packing +
I sanded the crate with 33 grit sandpaper 'cuz unclegump wants 33s
As compaired to 0 grit sandpaper, which is actually a cinderblock. Works great for "block sanding".
-Doug

 

[Uncle Gump]

Thanks Doug...

I'll keep an eye out for them.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

FOX link.....https://www.ridefox.com/product.php?m=offroad&t=shocks&partnumber=980-02-006

View attachment 92391

Just out of curiosity, what made you go with the 800 lb springs?

 

[MaicoDoug]

PJ, great question....

Eibach stocked nothing between 700 & 800 lbs. So thinking that the 700 pound spring would be too soft, I went with the 800 pound model. The spring preload is about 1.25" on the shock body. For a "2.5 inch I.D." spring, there must be another manufacture out there that would stock a 750lb/2.5" spring. The other adjustment is the shock nitrogen preload. I considered going with a "dual rate"spring setup, may still give it a try. Springs are cheap.

Right now with this coilover mod, the front suspension has gained 1.5" of additional travel. I had been having interference issues with the 31 inch tires rubbing the inner fenderwell, currently that problem is solved. So currently after some 5kmi on the suspension lift with these coilovers, I would say that they must be some more adjustment to make the ride a little bit softer. However, not wanting to loose much travel, I am considering adjusting (lowering) the shock preload pressure. Other that that, a winch & a pre-runner style front bumper will weight it down. Which is really the next step now that the coilover modification has proven itself out and the "cement truck" style of ride quality is gone. Getting ready to fab up some longer A arms. But sourcing longer axles are the issues here. There have been roomers of some longer china junk axles. I like to go fast, an old desert racer.

Planning on hauling the Ranger to Durango for some off roading in the very near future. Just an axle dolly pulled behind the F150. I believe that keeping the yellow sub level 2 as stock as possible maybe what happens in the long run, and pickup a 2wd and go crazy with it. The 4wd ones are around. I see them often.

- Doug

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

PJ, great question....

Eibach stocked nothing between 700 & 800 lbs. So thinking that the 700 pound spring would be too soft, I went with the 800 pound model. The spring preload is about 1.25" on the shock body. For a "2.5 inch I.D." spring, there must be another manufacture out there that would stock a 750lb/2.5" spring. The other adjustment is the shock nitrogen preload. I considered going with a "dual rate"spring setup, may still give it a try. Springs are cheap.

Right now with this coilover mod, the front suspension has gained 1.5" of additional travel. I had been having interference issues with the 31 inch tires rubbing the inner fenderwell, currently that problem is solved. So currently after some 5kmi on the suspension lift with these coilovers, I would say that they must be some more adjustment to make the ride a little bit softer. However, not wanting to loose much travel, I am considering adjusting (lowering) the shock preload pressure. Other that that, a winch & a pre-runner style front bumper will weight it down. Which is really the next step now that the coilover modification has proven itself out and the "cement truck" style of ride quality is gone. Getting ready to fab up some longer A arms. But sourcing longer axles are the issues here. There have been roomers of some longer china junk axles. I like to go fast, an old desert racer.

Planning on hauling the Ranger to Durango for some off roading in the very near future. Just an axle dolly pulled behind the F150. I believe that keeping the yellow sub level 2 as stock as possible maybe what happens in the long run, and pickup a 2wd and go crazy with it. The 4wd ones are around. I see them often.

- Doug

Doug,

That makes a lot of sense.

Did you wind up putting the extended eyelets on the coilover bodies, or running them as is?

As of right now, I am about maxed on my suspension - combination of #1 bars and a set of leveling keys. Ride quality is that of a brick, combined with a front sway bar links life of a few weeks. So, dropping down an inch or two is the goal, and coilovers seem to be cut out for the task.

Brackets were ordered yesterday.

 

[MaicoDoug]

Yes, I am running extended eyelets. It's the only way to have anything out and away from the axle. Found them also at https://www.kartek.com/ for 25% of retail. Crazy deal for an OEM Fox Factory part.

 

[Uncle Gump]

Torsion bars showed up today...

I haven't un-crated them yet... thanks Doug!

 

[MaicoDoug]

Don't worry about the splinters, I block sanded the cedar. Enjoy friend.

 

[MaicoDoug]

Been awhile since I posted in this section on this old thread, so I'd drop an update or two here.

Gauges are installed, way too bright for night time. So time to find some tint material. Also I'm one of those with the faded out FORD emblem, front & back. This truck came with the 8 inch version so they are all too visible. Gives the impression that everyone should indeed pass me on the two lane highway when I'm doing 5mph faster than the speed limit. Or maybe it's the factory mudflaps? Or it might be that dent in the tailgate which sometimes pops back all by it's self, then just with the absolute slightest touch, pops back in. Anyway a few TLC projects are in the works.

 

[MaicoDoug]

Finally got the scraping sound after tire balancing figured out, it's the wheel weights that I requested to be installed on the inside of the wheel slightly touching the caliper rattle clip. I'll need to get in there with a tiny cut off wheel and trim that buger.

For some of you who have been asking, it's a lot easier than you think. I took a few more coil over pictures.....

Pic below: Notice the upper shock heim receiver available from some off road shops pre fab'ed. I looked on Kartek's website, did not see anything. If anybody knows who has these please post here. Google fails big time because "heim joint" makes them big china bucks I'm guessing they can't list the receiver because there junk. I'd not buy anything not made in the US for that use.

Pic below: notice the gusset placement-

Gusset installation including this one

Below a pic of the lower shock mounting bracket-

These MIG welds were done with a 125Vac, 10 Amp "Hobart 190" is maxed out with 3/16" material so for this 1/4" steel, it took an extra pass. Looks worse than it really is. This mod has 9000 miles on it, so far no bad issues that I can discover. Perhaps one day I'll find another 4x4 ranger & put in something more substantial. Like a shock hoop and some longer A arms that can articulate much better. Now that there seems to be a somewhat reliable source of longer CV axles. I love to TIG CroMo tubing ! Makes these rat turds look like...real welds. I should of pulled the trigger on that $800 2004 4x4 that needed "a new motor".

As for any further modifications on this truck, I believe I will pass. I have apreacheation for this truck like it is now, and besides the typical upkeep, nothing else except some added protection like a skid plate as my lower radiator mount has a custom bend, could use some repair, or replacement. Maybe a not too ugly homemade aluminum skid plate with holes.

Need an oil sender "switch" that doesn't leak, it's a year old napa part, cost $34 and it leaks out the wired end, not the threads. Time to visit the junk yard. Is there a good oil pressure switch that won't leak oil all over my driveway that has a 1/4" NPT or MPT as they call it?

 

[Corey H]

Seeing your coilovers makes me want to get mine figured out sooner then later!

Also you need that $800 4x4, you need projects for the shop in Durango haha

 

[MaicoDoug]

Streaming down the passenger side, the plastic radiator is cracked on the upper side. Wondered what that was leaking on my driveway. Been chasing it for a couple days. This 4.0 has never ever gone above 190f, always ran cool. You can watch the thermostat open up when it's cold on the temp gauge. My only worry now is what is made in china...and how it's not going to perform as well as the OEM Ford part, which may be the brand I go with.

Time to get on the phone & see about price & availability.

 

[sgtsandman]

Streaming down the passenger side, the plastic radiator is cracked on the upper side. Wondered what that was leaking on my driveway. Been chasing it for a couple days. This 4.0 has never ever gone above 190f, always ran cool. You can watch the thermostat open up when it's cold on the temp gauge. My only worry now is what is made in china...and how it's not going to perform as well as the OEM Ford part, which may be the brand I go with.

Time to get on the phone & see about price & availability.

That's one of the things I dislike about the side tanks. It's so much more difficult to see leaks on them.

You could look at all alluminum radiators of you can't find an OEM one. People seem to have had pretty good success with those.

 

[MaicoDoug]

Thx again Sgt. Sandman- The aluminum should be general issue!

I got one yesterday for Apx $225 w/ the vets discount from advance auto. The same exact radiator from Napa but 20 bucks cheaper. Reading some of these reviews are depressing; transmission lines not interfacing correctly & leaking internally & externally. I may just attach a completely separate tranny cooler to address that concern as my 5 speed auto is on it's last legs I assume anyway w/ 160kmi.

Time to gather tools & wait till it gets light outside and get started.

 

[MaicoDoug]

Installed in 1 hour. With only a half cup of coffee.

I believe the tranny cooler was leaking ATF into my engine coolant. Enough to leave a little "jelly" type residue on the bottom of the radiator cap. After the 1 week / I drove 1800 miles, 4 weeks later, there was a slight strawberry milk looking engine coolant appearance when I changed out all the coolant, but this type of coolant already looks red. Spotting a possible internal ATF radiator to transmission cooler cross leak could be not so much of a color change, but I saw the jelly slime.

167f max on a 105f day driving to the local pick & pull junk yard & back. With the AC on max, that's about a 15 degree drop. It already ran cold, but now. A the yard, I showed up searching that lower thin junk plastic cover that bolts up to the lower frame rails. Found one, now time to spray it with my favorite dollar store tub & tile cleaner. 3% Oxalic acid has the greatest effect with the least amount of manual labor. So if I do the hard work, the outcome is really good. And hopefully a working rear view mirror, Uncle gump has one, exactly like my old 2002 Avalanche. I found one! 4 wires, hummm. Gentex 455. Just ordered a temp sensor, most likely a RTD.