Keeping it cool while at low speed!

[JMF661]

So, I've been cruising around some in the 4.0 OHV A4LD. Its been real hot out, 100 plus for a week or two now. I've noticed while climbing or idling with the AC running my coolant temp is climbing out of the normal range for the truck.

Firstly, the fan clutch and fan are getting replaced, going to order the oem Motorcraft fan clutch and a new whatever brand fan. Im not real suspicious of the fan clutch being bad, however maybe its not hooking up as it should. Thought about tinkering around with doing an electric setup, bleh, seems like the factory setup will end up more reliable.

Secondly, I started looking into some options for a better radiator than the OEM two row aluminum with plastic tanks setup. Found the Champion brand, seems to be alright, not horribly expensive, and should fit without too much fuss. There is also the Be Cool brand, as seen on summit racing, substantially more expensive, maybe a better made product.

I am hoping to provide more cooling capacity for the motor and protect the poor A4LD from dieing on me. Maybe a substantial enough radiator upgrade would eliminate my plans for adding an additional transmission fluid cooler.

Now is my request for experience or input! Have any of you folks had any experience fooling around with these all aluminum aftermarket radiators? Are they worth the 300-700 dollars for some additional peace of mind?

Thanks folks.

 

[sgtsandman]

I seem to remember there being a three row radiator being available that will fit in a Ranger. Perhaps an oil cooler would help since oil is also a cooling agent for the engine. I would avoid messing with the thermostat temp if possible but it may be a way to go as well if the other stuff doesn't help enough.

 

[JMF661]

The Champion is an all aluminum radiator that is a 3 row setup. I got in contact with the distributor, they are currently backordered for an undetermined amount of time.

 

[sgtsandman]

Unfortunately, there is a lot of stuff on back order right now. It sucks.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Stock hould work fine. Make sure yours isn’t plugged with bugs and dirt. Make sure it doesn’t have cardboard in front of it too.

Clutch might not be bad to throw at it. You might try a thermostat too. Put both old/new in a pot of water with a candy thermometer and heat it to boiling to see how they compare.

Add a tranny cooler for the A4LD if you are worried about it. I wouldn’t fuss over a 3 row for a 4.0.

 

[Shran]

I'm not sure bigger is better in some cases and this is one of them. I kinda feel like putting a bigger radiator on a 4.0, especially one like yours that already has the auto with AC radiator option, just creates a bigger heat sink. More air flow would be my suggestion... a heavier duty fan clutch or an auxiliary electric fan in front of the radiator to push air through it. And make sure it's not full of dirt and bugs.

Additional larger trans cooler is a must as well.

 

[JMF661]

Yea, the radiator in it is in good shape, the system has been flushed out by me just a few months ago. The trans cooler and new clutch are probably a certainty at this point.

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

Well I don’t have A/C but I cool a 5.0 with a two row 4.0 radiator...

 

[Eddo Rogue]

I'm not sure bigger is better in some cases and this is one of them. I kinda feel like putting a bigger radiator on a 4.0, especially one like yours that already has the auto with AC radiator option, just creates a bigger heat sink. More air flow would be my suggestion... a heavier duty fan clutch or an auxiliary electric fan in front of the radiator to push air through it. And make sure it's not full of dirt and bugs.

Additional larger trans cooler is a must as well.

+1. I installed the thicker radiator (2.75") and it did not help. I went back to a new single core (.75") along with new fan and clutch and shroud, and that made the difference. It never overheats.I also installed a new oem motorcraft thermostat.

 

[RonD]

No on the larger radiator, no need for it

Classic symptom of rising temp gauge at low speed or idle, is fan clutch failing

If that doesn't help then radiator is clogged up or water pump impeller blades are dissolving from galvanic corrosion

When changing fan clutch, drain coolant and remove radiator from vehicle, just 2 bolts, and trans cooler lines
Should be VERY LIGHT, 0 coolant left inside, flip radiator over, if more coolant comes out replace radiator its clogged up


And remember to swap around heater hoses at the firewall ever few years, backflushing the core while driving, makes them last longer

 

[cbxer55]

I seem to remember there being a three row radiator being available that will fit in a Ranger. Perhaps an oil cooler would help since oil is also a cooling agent for the engine. I would avoid messing with the thermostat temp if possible but it may be a way to go as well if the other stuff doesn't help enough.

Why? I've run a 180 on my 98 for 20 years now/. Never been a problem. And the temp needle is always below the normal range a small amount. Usually points at about one third on the gauge. normal is exactly one half. I run a 170 in my Lightning, stock is 180. I run a 170 in my 07 Mustang, stock is 180. Never had a single problem with any of them.

 

[RonD]

While running a lower temp thermostat is fine, it won't solve a problem with fan clutch or clogged rad or water pump issue

Engine is just more efficient at 190-200degF, better MPG and better at burning off oil contaminates, but doesn't hurt anything to run it cooler, also doesn't help if there an overheating issues, the 10 or even 20deg lower starting point is maybe 5second delay if there is overheating

 

[franklin2]

Relying on the factory gauges for any useful info can be expensive. You can waste a lot of money without a real gauge with numbers or at least getting a cheap infrared gun and shooting the radiator when you think it's hot.

 

[sgtsandman]

Why? I've run a 180 on my 98 for 20 years now/. Never been a problem. And the temp needle is always below the normal range a small amount. Usually points at about one third on the gauge. normal is exactly one half. I run a 170 in my Lightning, stock is 180. I run a 170 in my 07 Mustang, stock is 180. Never had a single problem with any of them.

I view the change of the thermostat as the choice if nothing else works. I did the thermostat thing some years ago and it worked great in the summer but winter time was no fun. Of course, the OP lives in California, so winter isn't that much of a concern.

 

[sgtsandman]

Relying on the factory gauges for any useful info can be expensive. You can waste a lot of money without a real gauge with numbers or at least getting a cheap infrared gun and shooting the radiator when you think it's hot.

Agreed. Most don't even have numbers anymore. The gauge reads in the middle. Great. What temperature is middle? What temperature is red for that matter?