handling/driveability ?'s with rear flip, 2" coil chop up front on 96....

[waynaferd]

Here's the plan on a 96 2x shortbed ranger.....My rear rails are rusted out about 6" in from the rear (spring eye resting against 2x4 under bed, ratchet strap holding up bumper), and in plans to repair that, I have some thick 3" tubing to use for a c-notch, and another length for a crossmember or two. That way the repairs will be plenty strong.....

So in the rear I want to do the easy DJM axle flip brackets, with c-notch and new OE style hangars/shackles(no add'l drop).....

In the front I want to either cut or buy 2" lowering springs, and do poly pivot and radius arm bushings. I did the bushings on my lifted 94 f-150 4x and what a difference!! I don't want to get carried away with drop beams and such, as I have a b-b-b-b-budget. And a small one at that

Anyway, would the tail-dragging stance affect handling? I should also mention a heavier 302 is going in in place of the 2.3, and the battery will find its way to the bed.

Also, would stiffening up the rear of the frame cause more stress to other parts, like the forward parts of the frame, or susp?

The only other thing I can think of is I'm swapping from manual to power steering.

Right now I hit a bump or heave and I bounce and sway all over the place, partly due to bad shocks, partly due to a sliding on a 2x4 rear spring eyelet.

Any suggestions or horror stories with a 2/4-5 drop? Let alone with 5.0 power?

Thanks for any!!!

 

[sacredauto]

all i can advise is to not cut the springs, it will adversely affect handling, especially with the heavier engine up front

 

[waynaferd]

Would trimmed f-150 or aftermarket drop coils work with the V8, or what would be the best option, springwise?

Thanks!!

 

[Hazmat Ranger]

Would trimmed f-150 or aftermarket drop coils work with the V8, or what would be the best option, springwise?

Thanks!!

Aftermarket Drop Springs will get you lowered, but you cannot get the front end aligned with springs. The adjustment is not enough to overcome the effect of the springs and your tires will wear out on the inner edges - I know this from experience.
I also agree with the statement above - NEVER cut your coils. Save a little and get the drop beams new or used from someone you trust. This is simply the best, safest, and easiest way to drop the front in the long run.

Good Luck

 

[slammedxonair]

These coils https://www.illusivefabrications.co...d=216&osCsid=9c7b50cb45375190c9a82b2b8bb474da are fully alignable with NAPA +- 4 degree camber caster eccentrics part number 264-3950

 

[waynaferd]

Alrighty....so far I ordered new factory rear hangers, and chevy lowering shackles (which will lift my ass-end 1-2", they have different holes). Since I'm only going 2" in front, this will keep the rear from being too low with just a flip, and now won't need to notch the frame for clearance. I'm just going cut off the rusted section of frame, replace that and the cross member, and call it good.

Thanks for the link to springs and info on the eccentics from Napa. Once the motors in that'll be the next project, along with poly bushings and and anything else that needs replacing (ball joints, tie-rods, etc)

I also decided to keep the manual steering. One less project, one less pulley to steal power, and one less thing to add more weight.

Other than that I need new shocks, and the cheap sport truck shocks from Summit Racing caught my attention (key word being cheap....this is just a "practice" ranger build)

So how does this simpler and easier plan sound? Any more suggestions? I should add I live in Maine and drive on rough roads, in the winter, and haul a 500 pound snowsled or 400 pound ATV from time to time.

Thanks!!