What coilovers should i buy? and more info about the coilover conversion kits

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Comfortably just over 1/2" higher than the Ranger ever was at a "non-Cranked" front height. Half inch to 3/4" over stock height at maximum with a livable geometry & with non harsh ride.

Sounds good.

My 2011 is up as high as the factory system will let me go on explorer V8 torsion bars, either pre key or lift keys (cant remember),1250 or 1750 (can't remember) rear leaf springs, lift shackles, etc. End result is a horribly bumpy ride and extended range front cv joints. Need to come down an inch or two.

Since I'm starting this from zero, what are the shock hoops you'd consider? I'm not quite sure what you mean. And how much longer of a shock would you go to?

 

[04ranger420]

The 980-02-006 is the shock I recommend. It will level out the front. The ride is superb with not alot of spring preload, I would stick with the Eibach 800 pound/in spring. Relocate the brake hose mount an inch away as so you may build up the tower gussets. If I had to do this mod again, I may consider a shock hoop & longer shocks because things get very tight up in there. This is one of the best mods I've done as the ride is pretty nice considering the short A arm & related geometry. Remember, you don't want that A arm too deep (too far down). The shock pressure is NOT adjustable. The first 2 inches travel is nice & soft making the expected difference one can expect. Good luck & post your ongoing progress when you can. -Doug

Hey Doug. Thanks for the info. Very helpful. My original plan was to use the 980-02-006 6.5in stroke but was under the impression it would be too long. Now you mention it will level out the front, it if I was to lift the back about 2.5 inches, do you think it would have a heavy rake?

 

[MaicoDoug]

My 07 Level II has a 3/4" rake at the rear for carrying a load (spacer), which places a tad more weight on the front. There is a whoop in the road where I live that will almost bottom out the entire chassis in numinous vehicles. Makes for a good test.

As far as the shock hoop & actual shock length determination goes, let me say this.......one can over & under travel a shock very easily. Being able to find the sweet spot needs to start at the mechanical geometry, such the lower A arm angle at full extension, then noting ride height after suspension settling. From what I've noticed with mine, there is a 30 degree negative angle at the settled (weighted) point. Limit straps would be installed to limit the up travel at this extended travel point. Maximum shock overlap (compression) is now calculated. Moving through the travel up to the maximum travel (shock compression) noting any excessive bump steer, now your bottom out bump stops can be adjusted and/or accounted for noting the shock's maximum collapsed length.

Between the Fox application engineers & myself we both decided that the FOX PN 980-02-006 would neither bottom out nor top out within the modified stock Ranger front end. Remember that the upper rod hanger (drop out) has been bolted into the shock tower at my specific point. Where one of the two through holes was already installed at the factory, I used the 3/8ths hole available, drilling my own second. So in conclusion regarding the shock length, when specifying the shock length, one must never bottom out the shock, nor top it out either. I now have about 40kmi on this T bar delete.

The term "shock hoop", best describes what a taller, longer shock & installation compartment can look like, especially how much better the install will be with some more room and less cramped upper access. Shock hoop fun>>>>

 

[04ranger420]

Appreciate the help. I’m going to go with the 6.5” stroke 980-02-006. Will have those with BTF uniball uppers, and deavers g50 in the rear. Hoping I don’t have too much rake. Another question I have is related to mounting the bottom bracket for the coilovers. Where did you find was the best area to drill the holes? I will be running oem style lower control arms.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

The term "shock hoop", best describes what a taller, longer shock & installation compartment can look like, especially how much better the install will be with some more room and less cramped upper access. Shock hoop fun>>>>

Really good video, and I now understand exactly what you're talking about.

I'll stick to gusseted shock towers. As much as I'd like to go to something longer, it's a daily driver, and I don't want to go that deep into it.

Appreciate the help. I’m going to go with the 6.5” stroke 980-02-006. Will have those with BTF uniball uppers, and deavers g50 in the rear. Hoping I don’t have too much rake. Another question I have is related to mounting the bottom bracket for the coilovers. Where did you find was the best area to drill the holes? I will be running oem style lower control arms.

North Peak 4x4 Off Road Parts for Rangers, Explorers, And BroncoII

This site was created to show different items I have made for the Ford Ranger based group of vechicles. This includes the 1983-2011 Ranger, 1991-2001 Explorer,

www.northpeak4x4.com

This guy is still making install kits. Just email him. Parts are extremely high quality, and I believe the kit is still $150. Not sure what that converts to in fermented herring and volcano ash, but can't be too bad.

 

[04ranger420]

Really good video, and I now understand exactly what you're talking about.

I'll stick to gusseted shock towers. As much as I'd like to go to something longer, it's a daily driver, and I don't want to go that deep into it.

North Peak 4x4 Off Road Parts for Rangers, Explorers, And BroncoII

This site was created to show different items I have made for the Ford Ranger based group of vechicles. This includes the 1983-2011 Ranger, 1991-2001 Explorer,

www.northpeak4x4.com

This guy is still making install kits. Just email him. Parts are extremely high quality, and I believe the kit is still $150. Not sure what that converts to in fermented herring and volcano ash, but can't be too bad.

I have the ricks rangerz kit. Pretty obvious where the top bracket goes, need to drill holes in the lower to mount the bottom. Just curious where his ended up

 

[04ranger420]

My 07 Level II has a 3/4" rake at the rear for carrying a load (spacer), which places a tad more weight on the front. There is a whoop in the road where I live that will almost bottom out the entire chassis in numinous vehicles. Makes for a good test.

As far as the shock hoop & actual shock length determination goes, let me say this.......one can over & under travel a shock very easily. Being able to find the sweet spot needs to start at the mechanical geometry, such the lower A arm angle at full extension, then noting ride height after suspension settling. From what I've noticed with mine, there is a 30 degree negative angle at the settled (weighted) point. Limit straps would be installed to limit the up travel at this extended travel point. Maximum shock overlap (compression) is now calculated. Moving through the travel up to the maximum travel (shock compression) noting any excessive bump steer, now your bottom out bump stops can be adjusted and/or accounted for noting the shock's maximum collapsed length.

Between the Fox application engineers & myself we both decided that the FOX PN 980-02-006 would neither bottom out nor top out within the modified stock Ranger front end. Remember that the upper rod hanger (drop out) has been bolted into the shock tower at my specific point. Where one of the two through holes was already installed at the factory, I used the 3/8ths hole available, drilling my own second. So in conclusion regarding the shock length, when specifying the shock length, one must never bottom out the shock, nor top it out either. I now have about 40kmi on this T bar delete.

The term "shock hoop", best describes what a taller, longer shock & installation compartment can look like, especially how much better the install will be with some more room and less cramped upper access. Shock hoop fun>>>>

Hey Doug. Another question for you. Working on my build right now and was curious if you’re running limit straps to prevent the shock from bottoming out. Will install them while I’m here if need be.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Well, looks like Fox has discontinued absolutely everything that would allow me to finish doing this after I started building a pile of new parts.

For those that know suspension better than I, any suggestions?

 

[JoshT]

Well, looks like Fox has discontinued absolutely everything that would allow me to finish doing this after I started building a pile of new parts.

For those that know suspension better than I, any suggestions?

What did they discontinue?

Planning to do this myself in the near future. I'll be doing it in conjunction with a Rough Country lift and the truck has a V8 swap, so probably need longer shocks and different springs.

 

[Shran]

Kartek has those shocks in stock at the moment? That's really all you need from Fox, everything else can come from elsewhere. Fox does sell other 6.5" travel shocks though, these for example: https://accutuneoffroad.com/product...e-series-coilover-shock-6-5-travel-5-8-shaft/

Or there are others if you don't need/want the remote reservoir.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Kartek has those shocks in stock at the moment? That's really all you need from Fox, everything else can come from elsewhere. Fox does sell other 6.5" travel shocks though, these for example: https://accutuneoffroad.com/product...e-series-coilover-shock-6-5-travel-5-8-shaft/

Or there are others if you don't need/want the remote reservoir.

Thanks on the kartek tip.

Definitely want reservoirs.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

What did they discontinue?

Planning to do this myself in the near future. I'll be doing it in conjunction with a Rough Country lift and the truck has a V8 swap, so probably need longer shocks and different springs.

*apparently* the Fox 980-02-006 was/is/will be discontinued. Apparently. When I talked to summit this morning, they offered to substitute a different one that is over double the cost

Oh well. Looks like Kartek wins.

Do I spring for adjustable valving?

 

[JoshT]

Sounds like I need to get on the ball then. Not sure I need the same 6.5 length with a lift kit, but if they are discontinuing that one they are probably getting rid of other lengths too.

 

[Shran]

You could call that AccuTune place I linked above, that's where I got my 14" coilovers and I was happy with their service. Down South Motorsports might have some too. https://downsouthmotorsports.com/ Or Poly Performance https://www.polyperformance.com/

There are a million coilover variants out there, one being discontinued wouldn't worry me too much. I'm certain there are many applications that would use a 6.5" travel shock. Maybe they just figured out that a 7/8 shaft sells better than a 5/8" shaft or something like that. The main things you need to worry about are the extended and compressed lengths, and the size of spring you are putting on it (will it physically fit inside the control arm, etc.)

As for adjustable valving, I don't know. Probably would be nice. I could see myself adjusting them softer for offroad stuff. But I am a cheap ass and if it was a big difference in price, I would probably go for the non adjustable unless I had a great reason not to.

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

You could call that AccuTune place I linked above, that's where I got my 14" coilovers and I was happy with their service. Down South Motorsports might have some too. https://downsouthmotorsports.com/ Or Poly Performance https://www.polyperformance.com/

There are a million coilover variants out there, one being discontinued wouldn't worry me too much. I'm certain there are many applications that would use a 6.5" travel shock. Maybe they just figured out that a 7/8 shaft sells better than a 5/8" shaft or something like that. The main things you need to worry about are the extended and compressed lengths, and the size of spring you are putting on it (will it physically fit inside the control arm, etc.)

As for adjustable valving, I don't know. Probably would be nice. I could see myself adjusting them softer for offroad stuff. But I am a cheap ass and if it was a big difference in price, I would probably go for the non adjustable unless I had a great reason not to.

Got a call back.

Fox part number Fox 980-02-006 is being replaced with part number Fox 981-20-106.

Same coilover. New part number.

And i think ima go for the adjustable valve. Probably never use em. But at 160 per side, better to have and not need...