What coilovers should i buy? and more info about the coilover conversion kits

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Comfortably just over 1/2" higher than the Ranger ever was at a "non-Cranked" front height. Half inch to 3/4" over stock height at maximum with a livable geometry & with non harsh ride.

Sounds good.

My 2011 is up as high as the factory system will let me go on explorer V8 torsion bars, either pre key or lift keys (cant remember),1250 or 1750 (can't remember) rear leaf springs, lift shackles, etc. End result is a horribly bumpy ride and extended range front cv joints. Need to come down an inch or two.

Since I'm starting this from zero, what are the shock hoops you'd consider? I'm not quite sure what you mean. And how much longer of a shock would you go to?

 

[04ranger420]

The 980-02-006 is the shock I recommend. It will level out the front. The ride is superb with not alot of spring preload, I would stick with the Eibach 800 pound/in spring. Relocate the brake hose mount an inch away as so you may build up the tower gussets. If I had to do this mod again, I may consider a shock hoop & longer shocks because things get very tight up in there. This is one of the best mods I've done as the ride is pretty nice considering the short A arm & related geometry. Remember, you don't want that A arm too deep (too far down). The shock pressure is NOT adjustable. The first 2 inches travel is nice & soft making the expected difference one can expect. Good luck & post your ongoing progress when you can. -Doug

Hey Doug. Thanks for the info. Very helpful. My original plan was to use the 980-02-006 6.5in stroke but was under the impression it would be too long. Now you mention it will level out the front, it if I was to lift the back about 2.5 inches, do you think it would have a heavy rake?

 

[MaicoDoug]

My 07 Level II has a 3/4" rake at the rear for carrying a load (spacer), which places a tad more weight on the front. There is a whoop in the road where I live that will almost bottom out the entire chassis in numinous vehicles. Makes for a good test.

As far as the shock hoop & actual shock length determination goes, let me say this.......one can over & under travel a shock very easily. Being able to find the sweet spot needs to start at the mechanical geometry, such the lower A arm angle at full extension, then noting ride height after suspension settling. From what I've noticed with mine, there is a 30 degree negative angle at the settled (weighted) point. Limit straps would be installed to limit the up travel at this extended travel point. Maximum shock overlap (compression) is now calculated. Moving through the travel up to the maximum travel (shock compression) noting any excessive bump steer, now your bottom out bump stops can be adjusted and/or accounted for noting the shock's maximum collapsed length.

Between the Fox application engineers & myself we both decided that the FOX PN 980-02-006 would neither bottom out nor top out within the modified stock Ranger front end. Remember that the upper rod hanger (drop out) has been bolted into the shock tower at my specific point. Where one of the two through holes was already installed at the factory, I used the 3/8ths hole available, drilling my own second. So in conclusion regarding the shock length, when specifying the shock length, one must never bottom out the shock, nor top it out either. I now have about 40kmi on this T bar delete.

The term "shock hoop", best describes what a taller, longer shock & installation compartment can look like, especially how much better the install will be with some more room and less cramped upper access. Shock hoop fun>>>>

 

[04ranger420]

Appreciate the help. I’m going to go with the 6.5” stroke 980-02-006. Will have those with BTF uniball uppers, and deavers g50 in the rear. Hoping I don’t have too much rake. Another question I have is related to mounting the bottom bracket for the coilovers. Where did you find was the best area to drill the holes? I will be running oem style lower control arms.