My 2000 Green Ranger 5.0 lowered AWD

[lil_Blue_Ford]

So…

This showed up for the green Ranger thanks to my buddy Paul…

Stage 2 kit, I’m going to combine it with the Jmod and whatever else I can find. Going to try to get some reference points established before this goes in so I can check after and compare.

And then when I went looking for an exhaust leak (I found it, couple loose bolts and a couple pinholes), I found a real problem…

Plus there’s this stuff…

Put my laptop on the green Ranger... it has some issues…

P0453 - Evap Emissions Control System Malfunction
P0455 - gross Evap leak
P1409 - EVR circuit failure
P0174 - Bank 2 too lean

P1891 - Transfer Case Contact Plate Ground Return Open Circuit
P1867 - Transfer Case Contact Plate General Circuit Failure

C1155 - Left Front ABS sensor failure

ABS doesn’t surprise me although I hoped I was past this problem. This was a problem I had chased repeatedly prior to the 5.0 swap so yeah. Guess I take another stab at it…

The transfer case thing is because I’m using the AWD case so there is no plug. Of course the AS-BUILT doesn’t have a way to turn this off in the GEM. So I either need a different GEM or find a way to resolve this. I’m thinking I might just need to ground one of the transfer case wires (currently I have a blank plug in the wire) and then it will just read as 2wd all the time.

The Bank 2 too lean is a problem I’ve had since I swapped motors. Same with the EVR. I’m not exactly sure what to try next to deal with those.

The Evap problem is new. I suspect I’m going to have to do some smoke testing. The main Evap line running from the engine bay back is all new, I did it in aluminum tube and fuel line. Theoretically that should have resolved any issues there. Gas cap seems to seal tight and I don’t see any obvious problems…

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Thusly…

Some of that is broken into steps, some is stuff that was supposed to have been done already, some is wish list and some is necessary. I’ll add and delete things as needed, but since it’s going to be down for at least a few days, I’m going to take a little longer and try to resolve as much of this as I can

 

[JoshT]

ut my laptop on the green Ranger... it has some issues…

P0453 - Evap Emissions Control System Malfunction
P0455 - gross Evap leak
P1409 - EVR circuit failure
P0174 - Bank 2 too lean

The Bank 2 too lean is a problem I’ve had since I swapped motors. Same with the EVR. I’m not exactly sure what to try next to deal with those.

The Evap problem is new. I suspect I’m going to have to do some smoke testing. The main Evap line running from the engine bay back is all new, I did it in aluminum tube and fuel line. Theoretically that should have resolved any issues there. Gas cap seems to seal tight and I don’t see any obvious problems…

I had the EVAP thing after my swap. Turned out to be the line running over to the purge valve on the fender had deteriorated to the point of leaking.

I'm not going to say this it is the problem, but if that hose is leaking it could also be causing your bank 2 lean condition. Could have just taken some time for the truck to determine that the EVAP was a problem too.

P1891 - Transfer Case Contact Plate Ground Return Open Circuit
P1867 - Transfer Case Contact Plate General Circuit Failure


The transfer case thing is because I’m using the AWD case so there is no plug. Of course the AS-BUILT doesn’t have a way to turn this off in the GEM. So I either need a different GEM or find a way to resolve this. I’m thinking I might just need to ground one of the transfer case wires (currently I have a blank plug in the wire) and then it will just read as 2wd all the time.

Mine is throwing a whole slew of 4wd & transfer case codes. Those don't actually trigger a CEL and won't show up on a normal code scanner, so I've just ignored them. Unless you need to worry about it for an inspection, or just have a goal of clearing all possible DTCs, I wouldn't worry about them too much.

I'm not convinced that mine won't go back to a 4x4 transfer case. There aren;t codes in the as-built wizard for disabling this stuff, but it might still be in the hex code portion. If someone finds the codes to change I might do it, otherwise I'm not going to put much effort into getting rid of it from the computer. Maybe there's something that could be done on the plug end to fool it into thinking everything is good like you suggest.

C1155 - Left Front ABS sensor failure

ABS doesn’t surprise me although I hoped I was past this problem. This was a problem I had chased repeatedly prior to the 5.0 swap so yeah. Guess I take another stab at it…

I'm pretty sure that I've got the exact same code. I don't believe that I had it before I did the live axle conversion. Replaced the wheel bearings for the conversion and it appeared. I tried both the new sensor that came with the bearing and the old one that was already on the truck with the same results. That too does not seem to throw a code and or afect how the ABS system is working in anyway, so I'm just ignoring it at this point.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I had the EVAP thing after my swap. Turned out to be the line running over to the purge valve on the fender had deteriorated to the point of leaking.

I'm not going to say this it is the problem, but if that hose is leaking it could also be causing your bank 2 lean condition. Could have just taken some time for the truck to determine that the EVAP was a problem too.

I did put new hoses on there and from the solenoid thing down the frame rail, used aluminum tube and rubber hose. Probably just going to try for a smoke test and see what happens at this point because theoretically I should have resolved that when I put the motor in. Oddly enough, I wasn't getting an EVAP leak indication prior to changing the driveline, but there were some serious rust holes in the steel line running to the back.

Exhaust shop got my Bank 2 oxygen sensors hooked up backwards. I corrected it and reset the computer in hopes that it would fix my Bank 2 lean condition last year but it's still reading lean. Need to maybe monitor the O2 sensors and see if something is flaking out.

Mine is throwing a whole slew of 4wd & transfer case codes. Those don't actually trigger a CEL and won't show up on a normal code scanner, so I've just ignored them. Unless you need to worry about it for an inspection, or just have a goal of clearing all possible DTCs, I wouldn't worry about them too much.

I'm not convinced that mine won't go back to a 4x4 transfer case. There aren;t codes in the as-built wizard for disabling this stuff, but it might still be in the hex code portion. If someone finds the codes to change I might do it, otherwise I'm not going to put much effort into getting rid of it from the computer. Maybe there's something that could be done on the plug end to fool it into thinking everything is good like you suggest.

Those are the only 4x4 related codes I've gotten so far. Mine will likely not go back to a 4x4 case. I'd like to clear out those codes just because. I was hoping the As-Built would have something in the wizard or hex code (I was also hoping to find the speed limiter in there too) but no dice. Either Forscan hasn't been configured to read that stuff or it isn't there. I suspect something just needs to be grounded on the plug to solve it, but I haven't been able to figure that out yet. My other option would be to swap a 2wd GEM or maybe the GEM out of my donor Explorer.

I'm pretty sure that I've got the exact same code. I don't believe that I had it before I did the live axle conversion. Replaced the wheel bearings for the conversion and it appeared. I tried both the new sensor that came with the bearing and the old one that was already on the truck with the same results. That too does not seem to throw a code and or afect how the ABS system is working in anyway, so I'm just ignoring it at this point.

I've been fighting ABS problems since I got this truck. Both front bearings got replaced with new sensors because I was having the sensors randomly drop out at lower speeds and kick on the ABS. After changing those I'd randomly have the rear axle lock up. I replaced the ABS unit with the one out of my donor and ABS is still randomly giving trouble. I'm kind of wishing I would have done something to bypass it at this point because I'm getting frustrated with the system. I'll throw a new sensor and/or bearings at the front because I put cheap bearings on the last time around and that may not be helping things, plus the sensor wire is cracking on the left side.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Progress has begun... Standby for updates…

 

[Lefty]

With the frame repaired and the bed out of the way, I decided it was a great time to make some more adjustments to the rear suspension. Additionally I figured it would be a good time to cut the spring perches on the rear axle and the traction bar mounts so that I could adjust things to get the correct pinion angle and the correct locations for the traction bar mounts since I wanted to use the Explorer 8.8" as a spring under axle and with the Explorer goodies. So once again with some help from @sgtsandman , we got after it.

View attachment 120985

I should also mention that the 8.8" got new outer bearings and seals, new brakes all around, new clutches in the factory limited slip plus I did the mod to slip in a couple extra clutch disks for improved operation. Full synthetic oil went in as well, 75-140 if I mind right. The cover is a Perfect Launch aluminum cover with a truss for the main caps.

View attachment 120987

I also discovered that my changes resulted in my driveshaft being too long. After a lot of debate, I chose to cut it and weld it myself. Then I took it to a local spring/driveline shop for balancing. It wasn't perfect, but it worked and didn't take much to balance. On the positive, I didn't get charged much for the balance but on the downside the tech blew a hole tacking on the weight so now there's a weld slag BB rolling around in my driveshaft, lol.

View attachment 120988

Since time was then growing short in trying to make it to the TRS Roundup in LBL last year (2023), I hustled along with getting things together and up to get exhaust custom made. The exhaust is all stainless, Torque Monster headers into 2.5" pipe, stainless aftermarket cats, Magnaflow crossover muffler (want to say it's the 18"), and dumps behind the rear wheels on both sides, but tucked up under so it's kind of stealthy. The rumble it makes, is not so stealthy. I probably should have gone for a longer muffler to tamp that down some and not make it so obvious.

View attachment 120989
View attachment 120991

During all of this, I also worked on trying to get my Choptop back into shape, but that will get it's own build thread when I can get back on my desktop computer where all the early pictures are stored. I tried hard to make the TRS Roundup but I ended up limping into a friend's in Ohio puking power steering and transmission fluid. After a couple days of struggle, I gave it up and after hanging out there for a few days, I returned home to resume working out the bugs from my build.

Looking good, big guy.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Looking good, big guy.

If it will ever stop raining long enough for me to make progress, lol. But thanks, it’s a labor of love towards a youthful dream of having a lowered V-8 Ranger. Eventually the intention is supercharger or twin turbo on a 331 stroker with a 50 shot of NOS for fun. But that’s a few years out yet.

 

[Lefty]

If it will ever stop raining long enough for me to make progress, lol. But thanks, it’s a labor of love towards a youthful dream of having a lowered V-8 Ranger. Eventually the intention is supercharger or twin turbo on a 331 stroker with a 50 shot of NOS for fun. But that’s a few years out yet.

I certainly would not want to go that far. but for sure, you have boldly upgraded where few have ever gone before.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I certainly would not want to go that far. but for sure, you have boldly upgraded where few have ever gone before.

Best part is, I don’t even have a garage to do it in yet. This is what I’ve done for years. Eventually I’ll have a garage to work in. My temporary shop is a step forward. I have a temporary garage, just no flat spot to put it up on yet. Ranger needs fixed, Choptop needs some love, dump truck needs fixed. Once the dump truck is fixed, I have a line on a mini excavator I can borrow. Between that and fixing dad’s skid steer, I should be able to do the dirt work on my property to get a place to put it up. The temporary garage is big enough to put a lift in. That will help productivity immensely and I’m not getting any younger.

 

[Terrys87]

I have just now finished reading the first page on your build. You have been doing some serious work and enjoy seeing how this turns out.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I have just now finished reading the first page on your build. You have been doing some serious work and enjoy seeing how this turns out.

You see, I have this problem where I can’t leave anything alone. Think of Tim “the toolman” Taylor on Home Improvement with a better success rate, lol.

I look up to people like @bobbywalter with all the things they do to their rigs. It’s an inspiration. Once I get myself a garage with a lift, it’s really gonna be game on.

 

[Terrys87]

Just finished tour thread. You do have quite a bit of work done to your truck I evetaully want to add a 5.0 to a Ranger or Bronco2. Kind of my childhood dream as well.

I restored my first truck without a garage. I used a friends barn to do my first paint job. I have a shop now and I did like you are wanting to do, as I could afford it. I will pass on some information I wish I had known. Invest in insulation, it is great in summer and winter. Get a garage door that seals all the way around. I got the roll up door and it has a big gap at the top for the roll up assembly. I have seen some roll up doors that can seal but they are not insulated as far as any roll up door I have seen. Shops are never big enough, however many bay garage you want, add half of a bay for storage of tools and tool chest. An air compressor may be a 2x2 foor square but floor space goes quick.

I bought a Carolina Carport with just the 3 walls and roll up door. They intentionally want you to buy their products such as insultion. In pictures of my shop you will see on the roof 52 inches and 48 inches. They could of easily made it the same numbers between each rail. At the time I could of went with a home store, stick and wood building, but that was $300 more at the time. You guess it, I cheaped out. I am able to make Lowes/Home Depot materials work ,just had to get creative.

I like the green and black on your truck. My bike is green and black and when I seen all green and one green/black, I like the two tone better. I want to do a 5.0 OBD2 but like some of the codes you mention, they do intimidate me. Hang in there, you will get thru it.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

Just finished tour thread. You do have quite a bit of work done to your truck I evetaully want to add a 5.0 to a Ranger or Bronco2. Kind of my childhood dream as well.

I restored my first truck without a garage. I used a friends barn to do my first paint job. I have a shop now and I did like you are wanting to do, as I could afford it. I will pass on some information I wish I had known. Invest in insulation, it is great in summer and winter. Get a garage door that seals all the way around. I got the roll up door and it has a big gap at the top for the roll up assembly. I have seen some roll up doors that can seal but they are not insulated as far as any roll up door I have seen. Shops are never big enough, however many bay garage you want, add half of a bay for storage of tools and tool chest. An air compressor may be a 2x2 foor square but floor space goes quick.

I bought a Carolina Carport with just the 3 walls and roll up door. They intentionally want you to buy their products such as insultion. In pictures of my shop you will see on the roof 52 inches and 48 inches. They could of easily made it the same numbers between each rail. At the time I could of went with a home store, stick and wood building, but that was $300 more at the time. You guess it, I cheaped out. I am able to make Lowes/Home Depot materials work ,just had to get creative.

I like the green and black on your truck. My bike is green and black and when I seen all green and one green/black, I like the two tone better. I want to do a 5.0 OBD2 but like some of the codes you mention, they do intimidate me. Hang in there, you will get thru it.

My current temporary shop is an 8’x8’ tarp shed thing that’s getting expanded to an 8’x12’ and wrapped in steel. I’m not really going to do much for insulation to it. My temporary garage that I have was spray foamed. It’s nowhere near big enough, but that’s fine, it’s bigger than what I have and will let me have a temporary garage until such time that I can build the permanent one, which is intended to be a 30’x80-100’ with a full basement level (built into the slope of my property so main level will be level with the road and facing it, basement level will be open to the rear so all the stuff like tractors can get parked down there).

I’m well experienced in the construction trades so now worries there.

I really liked the green and black as well. Previous owner did the black. Originally I considered painting it eventually to match the fleet (blue), but after having it awhile I came around to really liking it. At some point the truck probably will get repainted, the black was just rattle cans apparently and it’s coming off, but I’ll do a proper black and maybe add some extra metal flake to everything to give that green and black the real dazzle-dazzle.

As for the codes, most of them were problems I was having before the swap. I thought I could get away from that by fixing everything that didn’t get replaced in the swap yet here we are. Frustrating, but as you mentioned, not the end of the world. Just have to keep hunting gremlins.

 

[Snoranger]

which is intended to be a 30”x80-100’ with a full basement level (built into the slope of my property so main level will be level with the road and facing it, basement level will be open to the rear so all the stuff like tractors can get parked down there).

I hope you rethink that garage size before you build it. That just sounds way too small for any practical use. 30” x 100’ just sounds like a long workbench.

 

[lil_Blue_Ford]

I hope you rethink that garage size before you build it. That just sounds way too small for any practical use. 30” x 100’ just sounds like a long workbench.

Ehh… that was a misprint, I’ll issue a correction… 30’x100’