High pressure in tank fuel pump

[Terry]

What about the reservoir?

 

[RonD]

Reservoir in the frame rail was only there to keep the high pressure pump in the frame rail Primed, so can be eliminated

High pressure pumps have no suction, they can't "pull" fuel in, so must always have fuel at the intake side to pump fuel out, that was the purpose of the reservoir
In tank pumps are immersed in fuel so no issues

 

[Terry]

Ron,
I am aware of the reservoir. I was referring to the previous post about just removing the frame rail pump and adding a filter. If I understand this correctly, I will have two filters on the frame as well as the reservoir? Its raining here today so when it clears up I will get back on this but I pretty much have my plan. I will have high pressure pumps mounted on the stock senders. This will retain the stock gauges. I am keeping the stock switching valve. Everything else on the frame will go. I want to find a place in the engine bay to put the filter so I don't have to climb under to change it. I will run new lines from the switching valve to the fuel rail.

 

[RonD]

Yes, adding a 2nd filter in place of the high pressure pump was so you could use existing fittings/hoses with no changes, plug and play

If you want to change things then run a new OUT line from the frame mounted Tank selector switch to the engine bay and your chosen location for the new filter
Return line will stay as is

One heads up, high pressure fittings are where leaks can happen, which is why the fuel filter is where it is, away from exhaust and engine
Many vehicle fires came from the low pressure line from mechanical pump to carb, either from a leak or stuck open float valve, didn't happen a lot but happened

There are already 6 injectors with 2 ends each and then 2 fuel lines that can leak, so 8 possible high pressure leak points, adding 2 more for a filter is not a lot more but IS still 2 more places for a fuel leak in a hot area

 

[kodogtwh]

Just to add to the conversation, I've converted mine to a HP in-tank pump. as long as your fuel lines are up to par, just grab a pump (alone, without a sender) from pretty much any later model ranger. Mine was originally from a '91 2.3. After that I put a walboro 255 in the stock hanger because of my dumb ideas under the hood. I dunno how the tank selector would deal with it, though. Maybe get a tank selector from a full size truck, since they were HP from the tank and are a lot more common than twin tank rangers.

 

[Terry]

I have been hunting fuel lines. I know what I am going to do but I have the older style connectors the have the little clip that holds the line on. All the other lines I am seeing a the push on type. Will they work on my truck?

 

[PetroleumJunkie412]

Both my 1988 and 2011 have the same high volume in tank pump. It's in my build thread.... somewhere.

 

[kodogtwh]

I have been hunting fuel lines. I know what I am going to do but I have the older style connectors the have the little clip that holds the line on. All the other lines I am seeing a the push on type. Will they work on my truck?

They should fit. They should all fit the standard tube with a ridge-style quick connect.

 

[Terry]

Just ordered the 5/16 90 degree fitting with 18 inches of line. I also ordered the 5/16 quick connect to splice the return line. Next the two pumps I found on ebay and the fuel line and fittings.

 

[Terry]

I saw some people talking about changing the in tank fuel pumps on my 1987 ranger from low pressure to the high pressure pumps in the newer rangers. I have dual tanks and I am looking for what year pump I need to buy.

Sorry no posts. Got hurt at work and could not do anything. My truck has 2 pumps. I bought 2 pumps with all the parts, flow and pressure for a later model truck. It even came with both style filters for 77 dollars. I pulled the bed. Then I pulled the rear tank pump not knowing what I needed to do to fit the new pump. The old low pressure pump is shorter than the new pump. The fuel output is also smaller than the old pump. The provided hose would not fit the metal line. After a trip to the autoparts store for bigger hose, I was ready to go. I had to cut 3/4 off of the metal line. After that and a little bigger hose it went onto the old frame. I did the same thing with the front pump. I tested both of them. Started up and the gage worked. Of course it overflowed the reservoir but it worked. Now I need to remove the reservoir, frame rail pump and redo the lines. I am attaching some pics for reference.

 

[Terry]

Sorry no posts. Got hurt at work and could not do anything. My truck has 2 pumps. I bought 2 pumps with all the parts, flow and pressure for a later model truck. It even came with both style filters for 77 dollars. I pulled the bed. Then I pulled the rear tank pump not knowing what I needed to do to fit the new pump. The old low pressure pump is shorter than the new pump. The fuel output is also smaller than the old pump. The provided hose would not fit the metal line. After a trip to the autoparts store for bigger hose, I was ready to go. I had to cut 3/4 off of the metal line. After that and a little bigger hose it went onto the old frame. I did the same thing with the front pump. I tested both of them. Started up and the gage worked. Of course it overflowed the reservoir but it worked. Now I need to remove the reservoir, frame rail pump and redo the lines. I am attaching some pics for reference.

Well, I removed the frame rail pump, the reservoir and for not the brack covering the reservoir. I think the low pressure return line should be OK. The line from the selector valve to the filter line is leaking to put it mildly. I bought the 12 inch metal lines for both lines, the replacement lines with fittings and the funky push connectors. DONT EVER USE THE PUSH FITTINGS. I am going to call NAPA tomorrow and see if can build me a fuel line. I got barb connections but that's the last resort. I'm posting a picture of the removed part and leaking fuel lins and fitting.

 

[Magic]

I have access to the Dorman 800-300 fuel/evap line repair kit. With some practice you can make some good replacement or custom fuel or evap lines. You are free to use any style, size, length of tubing, or type of end that you want.

See if a local auto parts place will rent you the kit. Be patient and use hot water or a heat gun to warm the tube slightly first. When you return the kit then just pay for the supplies that you used. The end result looks professional.

 

[Uncle Gump]

@Terry

I'm going to agree with the above post about the Dorman nylon hose tool. I also bought the kit to make new fuel lines. Works like a dream. I would see if you can get the tool on loan to do the job before you go piecing things together.

A quick question and a favor about your fuel reservoir.

Does it have a filter in it? Some do... some don't.

The favor is... can you take an overall picture of just the reservoir and post it. I would like to put it in the tech library so one can determine if their reservoir has a filter. My guess is that yours does not.

 

[bobbywalter]

evil energy kits are cost effective....quantum has a nice fitting set to go from f clip to 6 an.... really cleans it up....


. some of the newer aftermarket switchport systems only reroute the return and rely on the check valve in the pump to not flow back through the pump. i have had that bite me in the past....i just ran manual returns...but dirty fuel held the check open. so keep that in mind if you get into a parts replacement situation.


or just run baricade efi hose with efi hose clamps after you liberate your fittings from thier current lines. i did that for over 600k miles .... hard thrashing miles... sometimes with 100 pounds of fuel pressure and a 340 pump. they said it was hack..... but it is not.

worked fine for 12 years.

you should see the low psi crap i have now.

 

[Terry]

Well, I got my system complete. I tried the heat gun and did not really like that method. I liked the rental tool you guys recommend but I could not get it for at least 4 days. I had also ordered the correct crimp style crimp clamps. I decided to make my own fuel line press. I used two pieces of 2 x 4 some 3/4 all thread with nut and washers. The fuel line are about .325 diameter so I drilled a hole thru the 2 x 4's with a 5/16 drill for tight enough clamp pressure without cracking the line. I notched out the 2 x 4 thru the center of the 5/16 hole so I could assemble the line ad barb fittings. I put the line and barb fitting into the press with a little wd40 for lube and pressewd them together. I attached pics of the line and my press to give a better idea of what I did. It runs very well and I have about 34 psi at the fuel rail.