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I'm new here and building a v8 ranger


Moose, remove the starter and the cast stamping is above that.....here's a pic of mine
88c9466c6772483a4fe9c0462fb9736b.jpg

pryme... can't see that photo.

Starter is off, so casting number should be there on the right(pass) side? Do I need to pull the heads? Manifolds?
 
pryme... can't see that photo.

Starter is off, so casting number should be there on the right(pass) side? Do I need to pull the heads? Manifolds?
Yes, it's on the bottom of the block, like you need to look up when the starter is out. Headers need to be off too. Heads can stay on.
 
Great! Thanks. I am picking up the oil pan tonight, then will post a pic of the casting code.

Oil pan is $82 CAD from local parts guys (CAPS). Didnt end up going with rock auto, shipping and import kinda made it all a wash. Gonna do it piece by piece and not drain my bank account too fast now.

On an unrelated note- what does it take to hook up the shift linkage for the C4?

and Did the girst gen ranger come with a column shifter? Want to swap in a real bench seat (like from a minivan or maybe an impala/ lincoln) and the shifter aint real helpful.

Not alot of seat swaps on here except people putting in explorer buckets.
 
Floor shifter out of a C5 truck would probably work for the C4. I am using a B&M Unimatic for my C5.

First gens never had a floor shift. I don't know what it entails to adapt a 2nd gen (89-92) column into a first generation.

They came from the factory with a bench seat, it would probably be easier to find a factory one than adapt something.

Explorer buckets are a decent size, Mustang buckets too. BII is a no brainer since it is basically the same carcass as a Ranger. The getcha on many of them is depth on a standard cab, they hit the back window. Depending on how big you are you may not care.
 
Thanks for the tips. Have the factory 60/40. Just been in a field for a year, and unknown quantities of mouse excrement were present upon my receiving the truck. Pretty grimey in there right now. Plus its blue, and im going with a black and red motif ;)

I guess I will look for a shifter in the junkyard... any recommendations on a donor?
 
U can def use a floor mounted shifter with thr bench seat. That's my set up. Granted, my shifter in park is almost touching the lighter/ash tray. Using a different one might place it in better position. They also have lokar kind thar mount to the trans and do not use a cable like the b&m. I will say, the ratchet function is pretty cool.
 
Try a 60-40 bench seat from a 94 ranger what came in mine before I swapped for expo power seats


I just wanna go fast [emoji48]
 
Engine block code

Found the engine block code, looks like:

D10E-6015-AA

Will get pic up in a minute.

Is this a '71 motor... or do all 70's motor bear this code?

I was told it was a '74 from the guy I bought it off of.


EDIT: I went back out, the second line of the casting has a semi-spherical protrusion followed by "1F1"
 

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That block casting number was used from 70-74. Above those numbers would be the casting date (a number, letter and two more numbers)it was poured (I don't see them in picture). The heads were just about all the same from '68' thru '76', same valve sizes and combustion chambers. The big difference was in the deeply dished pistons used '73-76' that dropped compression one point. Further was the deck was raised ,023" resulting in a 8:1 compression. The crankshaft also had its timing retarded a couple degrees. The new oil pan you ordered better have access for the dip stick, yours in now in the front cover and won't work. 79 Stangs had the one you need.
Dave
 
Picture of date code. May 1, 1971?
 

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More like 1 June 71 but that means it not the heavily smoged motor. Dave
 
Thanks for the tips. Have the factory 60/40. Just been in a field for a year, and unknown quantities of mouse excrement were present upon my receiving the truck. Pretty grimey in there right now. Plus its blue, and im going with a black and red motif ;)

I guess I will look for a shifter in the junkyard... any recommendations on a donor?

83-84 Ranger/BII with a 3 speed C5.

You already have bucket seat tracks under your split bench if you want to go with buckets.
 
Got some parts

Picked up oil pan and motor mounts today. Got the DEA A2725 &2726 motor mounts.

Got the oil pan, but doesnt look like there is a dipstick spot... So that could be a deal breaker. Might bring it back tomorrow and eventually spring for the kit http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Ford-Racing-...ash=item58c27545a0:g:MEYAAOSwNSxU~Tt2&vxp=mtr

Any thoughts on this? At least this would come with a pickup tube as well, but getting pretty pricey.
 
Picked up oil pan and motor mounts today. Got the DEA A2725 &2726 motor mounts.

Got the oil pan, but doesnt look like there is a dipstick spot... So that could be a deal breaker. Might bring it back tomorrow and eventually spring for the kit http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Ford-Racing-...ash=item58c27545a0:g:MEYAAOSwNSxU~Tt2&vxp=mtr

Any thoughts on this? At least this would come with a pickup tube as well, but getting pretty pricey.
Moose, That Is The Kit I used. I'm in a very similar situation as u. My block uses the front timing cover for oil dipstick and the pan does not have a provision for it. I left my front dipstick as is and since it's a fresh build I figured as long as oil looks clean and in the front sump, it should be ok. I do have to trim my original dipstick as it now bottoms out on the front sump. Just make sure u got 5 qts in that mojamma and call it good. If there is another way for us to get the rear sump dipstick, I'm all ears.
 
pryme,

Did you get a new oil pickup?

I guess one could always modify the pan to accept a dipstick...
 

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