I'm new here and building a v8 ranger

[prymetime1]

Ok, so it's basically the 74 torino drivetrain? Don't think I saw mention of what trans your using, c4, c6,4 sp? What are ur plans to get the 200hp out of it? My build is similar in that I'm using old school stuff, 69 block n 73 or 74 c4 transmission. Should be alil easier for u if the trans n everything where from same car.

 

[Moose_]

Not from same car, unfortunately. AFAIK Engine is '74 (smog?) which was in a 69 mustang. Transmission is C4 from a Torino, not sure what year. Car also had a C4.

Don't know enough specifics to identify any specific types or years. Any advice on what to look for?

Since it was already a swap ('74 into '69) the optimist in me hopes for different heads or something (engine has been *recently* painted blue) that would raise the compression.

I would like to increase performance before it goes in (easiest way is 4bl carb so im told), but budget is key. AKA I have no more money to spend. Wife is already telling me Ive used up my beer budget for the next year on this project!

Anyone know what I should salvage off the old 2.3 before trying to scrap or sell it?

 

[prymetime1]

Moose, I think ur in good position. It was all together all ready in the mustang so it should all work together for u in the ranger. For the c4, they had a few variations along the way. From all the research i did, the smaller 157 tooth bellhousing gives the most clearance and is the desired one for our tight fitting trucks. U might be in good shape there being ur combo. There should be a tag on the side of the trans with its build code. Here's a great resource for c4 trans: http://www.pigseye.com/sadie/trans/c4.htm

getting some more out of the engine, the carb will def help..Letting it breath well exhaust wise will help max it out with out going over budget here since u said ur going with some flows. Header clearance may be an issue but I've read that some of the older stock 302 manifolds worked. If they don't, grab some patriot long tubes:

These so far have cleared everywhere for my build. If u have the 157 th bell housing then they "should " work for u.

 

[Moose_]

Moose, I think ur in good position. It was all together all ready in the mustang so it should all work together for u in the ranger. For the c4, they had a few variations along the way. From all the research i did, the smaller 157 tooth bellhousing gives the most clearance and is the desired one for our tight fitting trucks. U might be in good shape there being ur combo. There should be a tag on the side of the trans with its build code. Here's a great resource for c4 trans: http://www.pigseye.com/sadie/trans/c4.htm

getting some more out of the engine, the carb will def help..Letting it breath well exhaust wise will help max it out with out going over budget here since u said ur going with some flows. Header clearance may be an issue but I've read that some of the older stock 302 manifolds worked. If they don't, grab some patriot long tubes:

These so far have cleared everywhere for my build. If u have the 157 th bell housing then they "should " work for u.

The engine was mated to a different C4. So I guess fingers crossed its the right bellhousing. Ill clean it up and take a picture tonight and try to decypher what I have to work with.

Pretty stoked overall... was expecting to spend 6 mos looking for drivetrain

 

[prymetime1]

Gotcha, thanks for clarification on that bud. I may be alil slow today lol . If u have pics and can reference the site n or report back n we can try n help. I'm hoping u are set with the correct mating stuff and can rock n roll fwd with ya build.
U CAN use the 164 tooth bell housing, it's just alil tighter.
Here's a few pointers I experienced in my build so far:
1. Engine backing plate is different for 157 n 164 bellhousing, check there to make sure u got right one. Starter won't work right if they are missing matched
2. Flexplate may need to be swapped, again depend on what was on it to what u have to go on it
3. If u have to change the flexplate, check the clearances per proper installation. I ran into issue where I needed spacers since I used aftermarket parts.

Good luck with it all broman, looking fwd to seeing how it all comes together doe ya.

 

[Moose_]

trans

Took some pictures of the transmission. Doesnt appear to have a tag on it, but I was in work clothes so not going to get too crazy with the engine-brite. Measured the flexplate- hope I dont have to count it!

 

[prymetime1]

Moose, thanks for posting the pics. Looks to be the 157 th bell housing on the c4. It appears it may be missing some side linkage, not sure but looks alil diff than mine. Does it fill through the case or pan? I am not sure on the flex plate measurement. The lil ring is the reinforcement plate ford recommends. Goes on the outside of the flexplate to help reduce stress on flexplate.

 

[prymetime1]

Edit, I see it's a casefill. Think ur good there man. [emoji106]

 

[Moose_]

Thanks!

Heres what im working with in the engine department.

 

[prymetime1]

Heads up, if ur engine has a front sump pan on it like mine did, assuming since u ordered up the dual sump, check to make sure it comes with a new pick up, you'll need it so the pump picks up oil from the deep side.

 

[Moose_]

Found the tag! On the other side, not sure how i missed it. Will try to decode later. Also just test-fitted the fleplate to converter, and flexplate to starter. Starter pinion fit, but I'm not 100% on it. i would assume if thats what the guy had on it, then they would be matched. Oh well.

 

[prymetime1]

Trans might be a 68? C8? Does the flex plate clear all around? If so should be good. I've heard u can't use a stock starter with thr 157 th. Get a high torq mini to solve thst issue

 

[Moose_]

Identifying my engine

Okay- so Ive been working on this and that, trying to find parts, and trying to identify my engine specs.

Here is what I have so far- Exhaust manifolds (D0AE-9481-L) 1970
Intake- (D10E-9425-AA) 1971
Carb- (D2AF HA) 1972, 2 bl

Found a stamping on the back of the block (not cast) with 2F103815 (serial number)

Thinking this engine is a mix of different parts. Where is the engine casting number? Couldnt see it easily (maybe the way I have it on the bench).

 

[RangerFabWorks]

essentially all 302 are similar. its really the heads that sets them apart. the casting for them is under the intake flange. so you would have to pull a head to see what you have. 69-73? are the most desirable (except for the new roller 5.0s) to hot rodders because they have higher compression pistons.

 

[prymetime1]

Moose, remove the starter and the cast stamping is above that.....here's a pic of mine