Where to find diagram of Engine compartment?

[PonyUp]

Good morning.

Thanks for responding yet again Unoleisu.

Three of the wires are missing about 3 inches of wire. Will have to add wire. Since you use a lighter...You think one of those long lighters made for fireplaces and grilling woulds work? They run around $5 I think.

Here is something I found about "tinning". Not sure if it is the same as what was referenced by previous poster.

>>>>"Melt a little solder on the tip of the iron.
This is called 'tinning' and it will help the heat to flow from the iron's tip to the joint. It only needs to be done when you plug in the iron, and occasionally while soldering if you need to wipe the tip clean on the sponge."<<<<<

Will look for a youtube video with helpful visuals.

Hopeful the Shop manual I bought will tell me where those last 2 connectors go. Media mail so not sure when it will arrive.

Thank again everyone.

 

[bobbywalter]

Unoleisu...thanks for the instructions. My client might have one i can borrow. Can I just use a roll of 16 gauge wire to practice on? I may have room since the harness with the most chewed wires has a little play in it and I have a drop light. will also get the correct gauge wire. I think all wires in that harness use 18 gauge. Will the heat shrink tubing shrink with a 1200 watt hair dryer?

Ponyup, Sure you can practice with 16 gauge. It'll solder about the same. If there is enough slack in the harness to easily join the two chewed ends of each wire together, you shouldn't need to splice in a piece, I'd just solder them together. (I'd make sure you have all of the little copper strands for each wire, not just half the strands, this might require trimming the chewed ends back a little.)
I simply use a lighter to heat the shrink tubing. There is some little butane Pintorch with an attachement for this, but I've never needed to spend the extra $$ for it. (I think I saw it at Harber fright tools) Although I'm not sure what "tinning the ends" means, I am interested in hearing about it. If it works better I'm sure I'll try it myself, but twisting and soldering has worked well for me. It was the way I learned back when I took my ASE electrical class. And seems to be the method some manufacturers used on splices for their harnesses, at least the ones I have taken apart. I try to keep in mind that there is more than one way to kill a zombie.

i have been building and modifying harnesses for over 25 years, and have never seen a twisted soldered oem harness, be it gm toyota ford or chrysler honda saturn.....and a few others i have done.... if you twist it you have to touch it, unless there is a twisty tool i have not seen yet, which is entirely possible as i am unfamiliar with the technique.... dont recall it as ase either, need to look at that. maybe it is better to do. maybe i am outdated. this would not be the first time my methods would be outdated....and i hope not the last.

Good morning.

Thanks for responding yet again Unoleisu.

Three of the wires are missing about 3 inches of wire. Will have to add wire. Since you use a lighter...You think one of those long lighters made for fireplaces and grilling woulds work? They run around $5 I think.

Here is something I found about "tinning". Not sure if it is the same as what was referenced by previous poster.

>>>>"Melt a little solder on the tip of the iron.
This is called 'tinning' and it will help the heat to flow from the iron's tip to the joint. It only needs to be done when you plug in the iron, and occasionally while soldering if you need to wipe the tip clean on the sponge."<<<<<

Will look for a youtube video with helpful visuals.

Hopeful the Shop manual I bought will tell me where those last 2 connectors go. Media mail so not sure when it will arrive.

Thank again everyone.

tinning.....yes the tip is tinning, but not what i am referring too....



tinning is tinning the bare ends first. strip them and flatten them a bit. clean with alcohol dip in flux, touch the "tinned" tip to the base of the prepped end and flow just a bit of solder at the cut end..., then after they cool add the shrink wrap...and when soldering the ends together, done properly you will not need to add solder to assemble the joints....just some heat.


the hard part is finding an actual good soldering iron to do close quarter awkward combat work in-situ. especially upside down....use a face shiled of some sort when working upside down!!


my favorite iron i can not find, so i usually use a hi end torch, which for the unititiated will likely end in disaster.....and equal fail with a standard solder iron to the uninitiated with cold boogered joints.


with a hot trigger activated 100-175 watt single post iron , and proper backing/holding tools-fixtures its easy easy easy to do. those things are not so easy to find.

 

[unoleisu]

Ponyup, I'm sure any lighter will work for the heatshrink tubing, as long as you can get the heat around it. The long one might be a little cumbersom in certain tight spots. I just use a regular throw away bic.
I won't insist on "my method" of soldering. Do it the way you feel is best. It's not rocket science, and really doesn't have to be expensive or overly difficult.

It is clear that our experiences are different, so perhaps bobbywalter wouldn't mind posting a little step by step writeup (with detail pics) to illustrate his preferred method. I'm sure it would be very helpful for many on here. I think it would be handy in the Tech section, as well.

 

[unoleisu]

PONYUP: FYI

http://www.teamnovak.com/tech_info/how_to/solder/index.html#Anchor-TINNING-23240

Here is a decent link on soldering. It shows tinning and mentions twisting.

 

[PonyUp]

Thanks unoleisu and Bobby. Much appreciated. One thing about life...what may work for one person, may not work for another.

I certainly learned some words which were not in my vocabulary.

Both ways are good to know about. I know a guy who is always working on his older JEEP Cherokee and contacted him about giving me a lesson. Offered to pay him and will set up a day next week. He is kind of a "stickler" about doing things right the first time so will be interesting to find out which method he uses.

The link is good unoleisu. It does help with a visual. Will go over it several times to see if I can get the "jest" of it. At the very least I will not be a total "dummie" in my "lesson".

Now to find where those two plugs go.

Thanks to all of you for taking time to help and share.

 

[DFWBII]

I have a 1988 Ford Truck Shop Manual for Ranger/Bronco II I got from Helm's on-line. its about 2 inches thick and is a lot better than Hayne's book. FPS-12013-88 (Litho in USA August, 1987 on back cover) is, I believe, the library number. this is published by Ford Parts and Service Division, Training and Publications Department. go to Helm's on-line to order it. this manual is Ford blue of course, very explicit and fine detail,,drawings of all circuits, type of plugs, schematics, etc etc. youll love it,,,Larry in sweltering N.Texas.

 

[unoleisu]

Ponyup, can you clean the grunge off of the two plugs' wires and see what the colors are? That will help in identifying them in a schematic.

I have the Ford Shop manual and the Electrical/ Vacuum manual for my 87 BII. I agree with DFWBII, If you get these for your 86, you'll love it. I got mine cheap off e-bay, slightly used, but in great shape. ( It took a couple of weeks watching, to find the best deal). The electrical/ vacuum manual tells you every splice, connector, fusable link, ect, and their locations. Detailed as you want. I strongly suggest anybody who owns one of these RBV's to get these books for their vehicle. They greatly impower you to solve your issues on your own.

 

[jhammel85]

Wow, I have been looking to see where these go to for ages. Although, The one on the right might be for one of the sensors on the upper intake if they are not connected.

I have both of these disconnected in my truck too. I really hope you find where they go!

By any chance, does your truck have cruise control? Maybe it's from some kind of factory option that you or I do not have? Just a thought...

I second getting the grease off and telling us the colors.

 

[PonyUp]

Good!! I am not alone then jhammel.

Thanks DFWBII. I did buy some kind of 86 BII Shop manual and waiting for it's arrival. I don't remember it being blue though.

unoleisu..Thanks again. I will look for a Electrical/ Vacuum manual. i am going certainly need all of the help I can get.

The larger plug has two wires. One is a yellow wire and the other is a black with white pinstripe?

The smaller plug has one wire which appears to be a light green. They are larger gauge..maybe a 20?

Thank to all of you. You are awesome and helped me so very much in so many ways. Since deciding to do something with BRII and joining the Forums..I have not cried even once ....yet. Not throwing tools either.

Oh...jhammel. I did have cruise control when it was running.

 

[jhammel85]

Just throwing it out there (might be obvious) that the small plug is also hot when the key is on.

 

[PonyUp]

Good morning.

jahammel...ummm..not sure what you mean by" plug being hot when key is on".

I am waiting to fix the wiring before I put a new battery in to try to start.

By the way. brother told me to hook a oil pressure gauge up to it because of the light coming on but....I went to Auto Zone and was told by a guy there, they do not carry such a thing. Huh? Am I asking for the wrong thing? I told him what I needed it for. It plugs where oil sending unit is correct?

Borrowed a vintage Solder tool. Will post a pic. Will this be a good one to use?

 

[jhammel85]

Hah, I love the soldering kit!

By "hot when the key is on" I meant that it has power when the ignition key is on.

As far as oil pressure gauge, I think he thought you meant something that you can use for diagnostics. Best thing is the mechanical gauge you can buy that is usually installed inside of the car.

 

[PonyUp]

Hello jhammel.

Got it on the plug. So...are you saying it will be "hot" and is supposed to be plugged in somewhere? Guess I am not understanding completely as to the purpose of plug, where it should go, or if it is just a "dead end "hot" plug for a feature my BII does not have. Just strange both plugs have a black plastic tie thing keeping them next to each other.

I have plans to do the gauge thing after I know what is going on with oil light. Brother is saying there is such a "oil pressure device" you can plug into where oil sensor goes which will show oil pressure when key is turned over. told me to make sure I get one which will reach all way to top of engine for me to see when turning on key or have to get someone out here to read it while I turn it over. Darn...maybe time to pester brother again. Sometimes I think he is avoiding my calls.

Vintage set is cool even though I do not know what is what...yet.
Thanks jhammel..

 

[jhammel85]

No problem. We're here to help!

Well, I found that the plug has electricity when running because I tested it yesterday. I guess that rules out the options / feature far fetched theory I had.

 

[PonyUp]

Thanks jhammel.

Basically you are saying you have the same 2 plugs "dangling" unplugged and your BII still runs like a champ?

Should be getting my Ford Shop manual in mail soon. Not sure if I have to get the Vacaum /electrical to track plugs down or not.