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When is it time to call it quits?


bobbywalter

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woodhaven mi
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sawzall?
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it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
if the fasteners are workable, its a 3 hour deal to change the rear main. tranny is real light.


if it has a nasty or messed up quick coupler at the slave....shit gets irritating.

sometimes its worth trying to snake the master out and down....but then you have to be real careful not to fawk it up.

if your quick coupler pops right apart your golden....probably wont even have to bleed it. make sure you buy the little tool to pop it apart....worth it.


most clutch kits come with the little tool.
 


wildbill23c

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I know the quick disconnect piece worked a month ago when the transmission was removed due to the flywheel bolts coming lose thanks to the previous owner's son screwing around with stuff. I knew I should have got that rear main seal then, but at that time it wasn't leaking, but of course after you tear stuff apart and get everything back together is when something else will fail in that area of course.
 

wild horse

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Well I figured I would upload some pictures of the work I have been doing on my "POS" B2 and so far it has taken me 2 days just to do the radius arm drop
and when I went to bolt up the brackets it sucked the frame out about 1" on each side so I guess my frame is bent as some of the bolt holes dont even come close to matching up so who knows? And then theres the big chunk cut out of the drivers side frame from the guy I got it from and I'm woundering if that has somthing to do with it ? O well I'm trying lol ! Sorry that my rig looks like a pile of shit because thats what it is lol !:sad:
 

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wildbill23c

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0
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19K, 19D, 92Y, 88M, 91F....OIF-III (2004-2005)
Your rig looks a lot better than mine as far as the body. My passenger side is rusted to hell. Not to mention the interior is gutted. All of this thanks to the previous owner's complete lack of mechanical knowledge, cleaning, and maintenance.
 

wild horse

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Thanks lol ! well i agree with you that some people have no clue when it comes to vehicals and should not be allowed to owen one (sorry bad spelling)
letalone be near one , Including the wounderful "Bronco 2" lol !
 

wildbill23c

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2WD
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0
Total Drop
0
Tire Size
215/70-R14
My credo
19K, 19D, 92Y, 88M, 91F....OIF-III (2004-2005)
I agree, I have a huge list of repairs I had to have done, or have done to my B2 because of the previous owner's lack of mechanical skills, I'm finding more and more all the time. Everytime I find one of their "fixes" I want to drive the 45 miles and beat them over the head. My B2 has 2 wiring harnesses in it even, half of one is connected and half the other one is connected to stuff this thing is a mess. If I had the parts and the knowledge to do a duraspark conversion I'd do it just to get rid of the whole wiring nightmare.

I will be on my 3rd starter solenoid in this thing next week after payday as it just blew this afternoon, luckily at home, so if I hook up the positive battery cable it starts turning over the engine, it won't start that way as the key isn't on, but still, that's number 3 in the past 2 months, and just replaced it about 2-3 weeks ago. This is getting pretty old very fast, can't pinpoint why it keeps blowing.
 

PetesPonies

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You need a Duraspark distributor, and HEI module and some wire and connectors. That is all that is needed . . other than a carb.
 

wildbill23c

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2WD
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19K, 19D, 92Y, 88M, 91F....OIF-III (2004-2005)
You need a Duraspark distributor, and HEI module and some wire and connectors. That is all that is needed . . other than a carb.
Yeah the carb is the huge problem. Without going new I'm SOL.
 

PetesPonies

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find a 1.08 2100 Autolite carb used. They are real easy to rebuild and you can install a main jet at the same time. You might have $50 into the entire carb deal.
 

wildbill23c

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2WD
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0
Total Drop
0
Tire Size
215/70-R14
My credo
19K, 19D, 92Y, 88M, 91F....OIF-III (2004-2005)
Yeah I know, trying to find one is the problem LOL. Doesn't do much good though if this thing keeps blowing through Starter Solenoids every couple weeks though.
 

wild horse

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I tell you what - I have the dura spark in mine and I hate it! It's been the biggest pyle of shit that I have ever seen and want to do away with it and go to the MSD off-road ignition system . It may cost quite a bit more money but in the long run will be a much better setup with alot less problems, Now it's just coming up with the $300 for the system lol!
 

wild horse

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Hey wildbill , You might want to check that your starter is not dragging causing your solenoid to burn up because a dragging starter will do that or if its drawing to big of a load? Thought this might help?
 

bobbywalter

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Joined
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Messages
23,470
Reaction score
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Points
113
Location
woodhaven mi
Vehicle Year
1988
Make / Model
FORD mostly
Engine Type
V8
Engine Size
BIGGER
Transmission
Automatic
2WD / 4WD
4WD
Total Lift
sawzall?
Tire Size
33-44
My credo
it is easier to fix and understand than "her"
since the trans was recently out the rear main should be a cake walk. thats a good positive...:icon_thumby:



I agree, I have a huge list of repairs I had to have done, or have done to my B2 because of the previous owner's lack of mechanical skills, I'm finding more and more all the time. Everytime I find one of their "fixes" I want to drive the 45 miles and beat them over the head. My B2 has 2 wiring harnesses in it even, half of one is connected and half the other one is connected to stuff this thing is a mess. If I had the parts and the knowledge to do a duraspark conversion I'd do it just to get rid of the whole wiring nightmare.

I will be on my 3rd starter solenoid in this thing next week after payday as it just blew this afternoon, luckily at home, so if I hook up the positive battery cable it starts turning over the engine, it won't start that way as the key isn't on, but still, that's number 3 in the past 2 months, and just replaced it about 2-3 weeks ago. This is getting pretty old very fast, can't pinpoint why it keeps blowing.



sounds like you just been getting shitty solenoids for the starter, or maybe the starter has a fault and is drawing more then normal.

this would prompt me to buy a plow solenoid for 10-15 bux and hook up another wire setup to the nightmare to run the starter....a sub system on a momentary switch to start it from now on.


of course...i would have threw the 2.8 in a dumpster and put a 4.0 in it as well...adding even more wiring to the mess.....i can buy 4.0's here for 150-400 bux all day, so the odds of me ever spending money to work on a 2.8 are literally nil. i dont know why anybody would use one.....hell intermountain auto recycling out there in idaho has a pile of them with 140-180k for 275 bux. i would buy two or three of those before i rebuilt or even simply put heads on any old rbv engine... but thats me.



thats how shit gets to look bad too....just dealing with things to stay on the road. if you know what you have its not a problem. i have absolutely no problem overlaying two systems to get what i want. if you looked at either the b2 or my ranger you would be pissed. but reliable is not an issue...i have mechanical issues based on hi milage and abuse....but thats replacing parts as needed.
 

wildbill23c

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TRS Banner 2012-2015
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Joined
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Messages
3,917
Reaction score
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Points
113
Location
Southwestern Idaho
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
0
Tire Size
215/70-R14
My credo
19K, 19D, 92Y, 88M, 91F....OIF-III (2004-2005)
How do you check for a dragging starter? The starter is 2 weeks old as well as the solenoid that just went out.
 

wildbill23c

Well-Known Member
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Messages
3,917
Reaction score
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113
Location
Southwestern Idaho
Vehicle Year
1987
Make / Model
Ford Ranger
Engine Type
2.9 V6
Transmission
Manual
2WD / 4WD
2WD
Total Lift
0
Total Drop
0
Tire Size
215/70-R14
My credo
19K, 19D, 92Y, 88M, 91F....OIF-III (2004-2005)
since the trans was recently out the rear main should be a cake walk. thats a good positive...:icon_thumby:


sounds like you just been getting shitty solenoids for the starter, or maybe the starter has a fault and is drawing more then normal.

this would prompt me to buy a plow solenoid for 10-15 bux and hook up another wire setup to the nightmare to run the starter....a sub system on a momentary switch to start it from now on.


of course...i would have threw the 2.8 in a dumpster and put a 4.0 in it as well...adding even more wiring to the mess.....i can buy 4.0's here for 150-400 bux all day, so the odds of me ever spending money to work on a 2.8 are literally nil. i dont know why anybody would use one.....hell intermountain auto recycling out there in idaho has a pile of them with 140-180k for 275 bux. i would buy two or three of those before i rebuilt or even simply put heads on any old rbv engine... but thats me.

thats how shit gets to look bad too....just dealing with things to stay on the road. if you know what you have its not a problem. i have absolutely no problem overlaying two systems to get what i want. if you looked at either the b2 or my ranger you would be pissed. but reliable is not an issue...i have mechanical issues based on hi milage and abuse....but thats replacing parts as needed.

I've never had an issue with the actual engine itself, I had an 84 Ranger that was given to me by my grandparents with the 2.8L engine and it did an awesome job pulling a 16' travel trailer all over the country. Its not the engine its the Ford computer BS they tried to put in them that's caused so many to go to the scrap pile. If I had the funds, and the ability I'd do an engine swap but it wouldn't be a POS 4.0L engine, it would be a 302 swap, or if I could figure out how to do it, a 460 swap.

The solenoid issue I hope has been fixed, I found a bare wire for the ignition switch this morning so I replaced that, then broke the new solenoid when I started installing it. So I took in both solenoids got a refund on those and bought the Duralast Gold solenoid which has a 3 year warranty instead of 1 year. Hopefully the bare wire repair fixes that problem. Then it will be on to the rear main seal which sounds pretty simple really, just extremely time consuming from what I can gather. Yeah, transmission was out of it about a month - month and a half ago so it wouldn't be too bad I don't think. I guess on another bright side note is the whole underside of the bronco 2 is well lubricated to keep the rust at bay LOL.
 
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