Replacing your timing belt (with pics)

[used to be a chevy man]

Hi, im new here.

I recently replaced my timing belt. the instructions accompanying the kit did not completely match what is under my hood and these instructions dont match as far as subtle differences go. for example the pulley labeled "INT" has no timing marks on my motor so i just left it pointing straight down like it already was. the problem is i dont know what this pulley goes to since it is not the cam or crank. I was hoping someone can tell me if straight up or down makes a difference (my instructions say straight up) and what "INT" means. The truck does run but it feels like something is "off" about it, and yes the crank and cam are lined up correctly(i triple checked).

NOTE: Before removing anything i made my own timing marks with a paint pen

 

[scotts90ranger]

that other pulley just spins the oil pump, it's orientation on your engine doesn't make any difference on orientation. In 1994 on the California models and in 1995 on the rest that drove a cam position sensor to sequentially fire the fuel injectors (before that they fire two at a time)

 

[aaronb2500]

Hi Guys,
New owner here of a 1998 B2500. I'm in the middle of a timing belt change and have a question - after installing the new belt, do I loosen the belt tensioner to spring out and apply tension and then tighten it or leave it loose? I would think tightening it would prevent it from adjusting to take up slack as the belt wears and stretches.
Thanks in advance!

 

[tomw]

Aaron, after installing the belt, and getting all the 'slack' in the span between the cam and crank sprockets on the passenger side, you release the tensioner bolt and allow the spring to load the belt. Then tighten the tensioner bolts to the block. Rotate the crankshaft a couple turns and get it back to TDC, or where the crankshaft keyway is at the 12:00 position. Check the triangle and, if needed, the diamond marks. It seems the belt will be right on, or off a tooth or two depending on how well you threaded the teeth into place and got the extra length all on the span where the tensioner can take up the slack.
tom

 

[texas_ranger]

How much labor time should a novice expect it to take when changing the timing belt? I'll have to take out the radiator since it's leaking and needs to be rebuilt/replaced. I'll likely replace the water pump, thermostat, and tensioner too.

 

[scotts90ranger]

Leave yourself a whole day to be on the safe side, but I expect about 3 hours to do all that if you take your time and bolts come out reasonably. If you have A/C it could get more interesting, some of the newer ones have more going on up front than the older ones.

 

[texas_ranger]

Leave yourself a whole day to be on the safe side, but I expect about 3 hours to do all that if you take your time and bolts come out reasonably. If you have A/C it could get more interesting, some of the newer ones have more going on up front than the older ones.

Thanks, good to know. I definitely like to allow myself plenty of time since I always seem to encounter difficulties, let alone the inevitable part or tool run.

 

[scotts90ranger]

You shouldn't need any special tools, the only real hard part is getting the crank bolt out which if you have a manual transmission either put it in 4th with the parking brake on and go at it with a breaker bar, or tie the breaker bar to the bottom side of the passenger side frame rail and bump the starter (hey, it works...)

 

[texas_ranger]

Got it disassembled. Though reluctantly, as suggested I did the bump-start to loosen the crank bolt. Since the belt was already broken I didn't really have any other choices. After two failed attempts at hitting the ignition for a split-second, I keyed it on for two split-seconds causing it to loudly roar as it loosened and stopping my neighbor in his tracks as he walked to his front door, lol. Tomorrow morning I'm renting a harmonic balancer pulley removal tool.

---Note to all, to minimize the risk of a tool shattering, I used a 1/2" breaker bar with the black (impact-style?) swivel head, and an impact socket. I once had the swivel head on an all-chrome breaker bar shatter while trying to loosen an axle nut, so I didn't want to chance that again. I also strapped the breaker bar beneath the passenger side frame rail as recommended above with the arm angled slightly toward the pulley rather than straight or away. I did this with the hope that if the breaker bar did move that it would drive itself onto the bolt harder, and if it dropped that it would fall down instead of getting kicked into the evaporator core (radiator was out). I also put a double-layer of cardboard between the breaker bar and evaporator core to hopefully cushion any blow or shattering.---

This thread doesn't mention replacing the timing belt tensioner, do most people not change it? Will I need to use the Ford timing belt tensioner tool (#303-097)?

 

[kimcrwbr1]

I just use the poor mans impact wrench in a tight spot. Hold your hand on the damper pully pushing the socket on and just whack the breaker bar with a ball peen hammer a bunch of times.

 

[texas_ranger]

I neglected to mention that I have an automatic transmission so there wasn't any way to keep the pulley from spinning like putting it in gear with a manual trans. Though I'll keep that method in mind for the future. I just added this scenario to my list of reasons why I prefer manual transmissions.

 

[scotts90ranger]

No need for a special tool for the tensioner, I've just used a prybar to move it out of the way... You shouldn't need a balancer removal puller unless your truck is rusty, it "should" just slide off, sometimes it'll take a little back and forth massaging with a rubber mallet or a dead blow hammer...

Last time I had mine apart I got a timing belt and tensioner set, it was like $5 more than just the belt so it was a simple decision...

 

[texas_ranger]

Thanks, pry bar worked for the tensioner. I had already rented the harmonic balance pulley puller so used it since I had it.

So prior to completely buttoning it up, I read somewhere where a guy ran the motor beforehand to verify it was timed. I had already rotated the gears to verify proper alignment of the timing marks, but when attempting to start the motor it would not fire. I verified the timing marks and they were still aligned so I suspect it's because the coil packs were damp (it was drizzling while I reinstalled the plugs and replaced the wires). I'm letting them dry out overnight, hopefully that's it. As I type this I just realized it could also be that the battery cables were slightly loose, which probably was worsened by the cold weather (45F) shrinking the terminals. Guess I'll find out tomorrow morning.

But before I try starting it again, each time I tried starting the engine the belt crept slightly off the pulleys. The Haynes manual says to "rotate the tensioner assembly against the belt with approximately 30 to 33 lbs pressure". Any suggestions how to confirm tensioner pressure? Right now it only has pressure from the tensioner spring which seemed enough when prying against it to install the belt, and though it is a new pulley, it's still the old spring. Is the belt creeping off the pulleys because it's too loose, or could it be too tight causing it to roll off to alleviate pressure?

Guess I'm just looking for confirmation of my suspicions since I'm not able to work on it any more tonight. Thanks in advance.

 

[texas_ranger]

Just to follow-up on my earlier post. I made a total rookie mistake. In trying to start the engine to make sure it ran properly before reattaching everything, I left off the harmonic balancer (crank) pulley. The engine can't start without it because the crank position sensor needs to read the gear attached to the backside of the pulley.

As for adjusting the timing belt tensioner "pressure". I read elsewhere that the tensioner spring applied sufficient pressure itself. Also, after installing the harmonic balancer (crank) pulley the timing belt is prevented from creeping off the pulleys.

 

[Mark_88]

The tensioner spring "hypothetically" applies sufficient pressure...it can, however, become jammed so that it doesn't apply any pressure...or not enough pressure...on the older ones, anyway.

I've had problems with the tension removal due to grease and rust on a few heads...so I make sure it is clean and rust free...painting the head can help a bit...or make it worse if the paint doesn't bond properly...

So...hope you got it working or nearer to completion...they are not hard to do but the later ones can certainly be more complicated!