Frame Prep for POR 15 coating

[Vindictus]

I decided I should do something about my rusty Ranger

pulled the box so I can start on the frame

started beating and scraping and then took the wire brush to it I picked up a cheap electric pressure washer and gave it a bath

I pulled the bumper, pulled the wiring back. removed that carbon box fuel thingy mounted on the front of the spare tire carrier and found this I have everything here to fix it if I can remember how to weld. It's been 15 years at least.

And more rust I also found these 2 small spots but with POR 15 going on both sides I'm not going to fix them

Tonight I went at the rear spring mounts, on a side note i'm really liking this Milwaukie impact gun. Wasn't sure getting the 3/4 drive was the right choice but it twisted those rusty shackles like pretzels.
So out came the Sawzall and cut it off. It looks like the trailor hitch needs to come off so I can get the bolt out of the spring

 

[franklin2]

The spring perches rusting is so common on the larger trucks, Dorman makes the new bracket and a complete kit to replace both sides.

P.S. Here's a set but I don't know what year it fits. https://www.amazon.com/Ranger-Hanger-Shackle-Replaces-E3TZ5775B/dp/B008D2LHG8

 

[franklin2]

For s rusty truck like that, I have found this thing from harbor freight works really well at knocking those layers of rust loose.

They call is a needle descaler. I bought their cheaper one, but I see they do not sell it anymore, only the more expensive one.

 

[19Walt93]

I drilled the rivets and cut off my spring hangers with an air chisel because a torch makes too much of a mess. I'd ideally weld or at least bolt reinforcements to any holes in the frame itself- you'll never be closer to it. The instructions with the POR 15 I used said to knock off the loose rust and then coat it, if the metal is too clean the POR won't stick well.

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

To knock out rivets I use a 4.5" grinder and cut a cross in the rivet head. Then a hammer and chisel makes short work of popping the left over head off. Next a hammer and punch to get rid of the body of the rivet. A 1/2" step drill bit works great to enlarge the holes for bolts. Drill one hole, loosely bolt the bracket on, drill second hole and bolt both tight. Then drill out the rest.

 

[franklin2]

I drilled the rivets and cut off my spring hangers with an air chisel because a torch makes too much of a mess. I'd ideally weld or at least bolt reinforcements to any holes in the frame itself- you'll never be closer to it. The instructions with the POR 15 I used said to knock off the loose rust and then coat it, if the metal is too clean the POR won't stick well.

That's what I do. I center punch and drill with a small drill bit, and then drill with a larger bit, about the size of the rivet shank till I get to the depth of the frame, then a couple of wacks with a hammer and chisel knocks it right off.

A 3/8 bolt will slip right through the hole with some play. If you want it tighter, you can use 7/16 bolts but you will have to drill the hole out a little bit. That is the good thing about rivets, when they hammer them in place at the factory they swell up tight in the hole, unlike a bolt. But bolts seem to work ok.

 

[Uncle Gump]

I've found that grinding the rivet body (not just the head) flush to the frame makes pushing the rivet through much easier.

 

[sgtsandman]

I've found that grinding the rivet body (not just the head) flush to the frame makes pushing the rivet through much easier.

There have been times where I had to drill out the center of the rivet in oder to get the thing to knock out.

Have I mentioned that Murphy and his damn law likes to follow me around?

 

[JoshT]

I've messed with frame rivets one time. I tried drilling and chizel (air and manual), didn't work well for me. I tried cutting a X in the head and chiseling, didn't work well for me. What I found to work best for me was the 4.5" grinder with a coarse flap sanding disk. Quickly removed the rivet heads, then a punch and hammer knocked them out of the frame.

 

[Blmpkn]

Scrap the whole por15 idea.. I've seen it fail too many times to ever consider the cost & hassle worth it.

Corroseal, then fluid film. If your feeling froggy.. corroseal, implement paint, then fluid film.

 

[Vindictus]

For s rusty truck like that, I have found this thing from harbor freight works really well at knocking those layers of rust loose.

They call is a needle descaler. I bought their cheaper one, but I see they do not sell it anymore, only the more expensive one.

@ranklin2 I looked at getting one of those but my big compressor is not hooked up and I cooked one of my small compressors sand blasting the other weekend.
Had to settle for the wire brush and small ball pein hammer

 

[Vindictus]

To knock out rivets I use a 4.5" grinder and cut a cross in the rivet head. Then a hammer and chisel makes short work of popping the left over head off. Next a hammer and punch to get rid of the body of the rivet. A 1/2" step drill bit works great to enlarge the holes for bolts. Drill one hole, loosely bolt the bracket on, drill second hole and bolt both tight. Then drill out the rest.

I cut most of the hanger out of the way with Sawzall ground the rivets flat and knocked them out with punch and trusty 3lbs sheldge. With by the way if your knocking out a universal joint with it do not look up at big brested lady while swinging it removes thumb nail in an instant

 

[Vindictus]

Scrap the whole por15 idea.. I've seen it fail too many times to ever consider the cost & hassle worth it.

Corroseal, then fluid film. If your feeling froggy.. corroseal, implement paint, then fluid film.

Thanks for the advice @Blmpkn but I have it all preped por15 bought. I'm gong to coat it tomorrow. Your only a couple hundred miles west of me you know the salt eats everything I'm just trying to slow it a bit

 

[JoshT]

With by the way if your knocking out a universal joint with it do not look up at big brested lady while swinging it removes thumb nail in an instant

I'm not sure whether to laugh or cringe. Atleast you weren;t using the sawzall at the time.

In light of this, I feel like I should advise keeping the hootus put away while working with the POR15. It's not Herculiner, but I suspect the outcome wouldn't be much better.

 

[fastpakr]

I'm not sure whether to laugh or cringe. Atleast you weren;t using the sawzall at the time.

In light of this, I feel like I should advise keeping the hootus put away while working with the POR15. It's not Herculiner, but I suspect the outcome wouldn't be much better.

Hard to believe that was over twenty years ago now.