Florida runner build

[AaronC]

If you do the 'C&T than you should extend each beam 2-3 inches while your at it... your going to have to get a longer passenger drive axle though.

You would need both axles unless.... You extend the driver beam before the diff. I wouldn't recommend doing that though. You will lose out on valuable up travel because the diff section will hit the bottom of the frame rail.

 

[nooch450]

You would need both axles unless.... You extend the driver beam before the diff. I wouldn't recommend doing that though. You will lose out on valuable up travel because the diff section will hit the bottom of the frame rail.

I could see why... Does yours really get that close?

Some other guys who have extended the beam on the bracket side of diff done seem to have the problem... But i guess it all depends on how far you want to tuck your tires into your fenders.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64186&page=18

 

[jesse93]

ok i think ive decided on what im going to do. im going to go with the ball joint relocation so i have the ground clearance plus the flex for trails and if i ever get air with it...let the work begain..off to the ranger cave!!

 

[AaronC]

I could see why... Does yours really get that close?

Some other guys who have extended the beam on the bracket side of diff done seem to have the problem... But i guess it all depends on how far you want to tuck your tires into your fenders.

http://www.therangerstation.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64186&page=18

Yeah my truck could bump in the stock location if it wasnt for having 14's. I could have stuffed the shock mounts up higher if I spent more time on em'. I bump a inch lower than stock. I still tuck the diff section up into the x member.

 

[jesse93]

ok.. i got my spare beams stripped down but my passenger upper ball joint lock bolt(the one that goes though the beam that locks the bj into the beam) is stuck..i tried wd40,pb blaster,heat,more heat,impact, and a snap on braker bar..and broke the braker bar and 4 sockets.

any ideas?

 

[nooch450]

You broke impact sockets?.... Keep trying lol

 

[nooch450]

Yeah my truck could bump in the stock location if it wasnt for having 14's. I could have stuffed the shock mounts up higher if I spent more time on em'. I bump a inch lower than stock. I still tuck the diff section up into the x member.

Becasue I am running drop brackets my beams dont even get close to the stock bump points...

I guess you would have to either make your lower shock mounting points lower or raise up you shock hoops if you wanted to bump in stock location...

 

[jesse93]

You broke impact sockets?.... Keep trying lol

one impact socket and 1 craftsman and 2 snap-on...im going to weld a pipe to it

 

[jesse93]

ok guys i need advise...

i was thinking about my light bar, how about doing a headache rack attached to the bed cage with a light bar across the back of the cab with bar going from the top of the shock mount to the rack. or i can stick to my idea of doing it across the windshield with 2 adjustment bars going from the top of the light bar to the back of the cab....


what do you think?

 

[doyouquaxu]

why do you need a light bar, why not lights on the bumper?

 

[jesse93]

idk, i like the look of it i guess....

 

[doyouquaxu]

its hard to mount it to the front of the roof without a cage without the sheetmetal ripping over time.

mounting it in the back is easier by building an external hoop like you'd see in a roll cage, then mounting the light rack to that. if built right and tied into the bedcage/ frame well it can actually help in a roll over.

using a 4" elephant dick sized 'roll bar' that the hicks use will look really tacky.

 

[LameDuck]

Get yourself a D44 TTB and be done with it.

 

[low~n~blue]

idk, i like the look of it i guess....

They look awesome! Want one for the sandrail haha, btw your truck is SWEET! If you want it mounted towards the front windshield could you just do tabs and bolt/weld it to the door jam/pillar support? They aren't heavy, I would think that would support it without having to do any drilling into the sheet metal on the roof. Idk though my off road knowledge is limited haha that's why I love reading what all you guys have to say.

 

[jesse93]

They look awesome! Want one for the sandrail haha, btw your truck is SWEET! If you want it mounted towards the front windshield could you just do tabs and bolt/weld it to the door jam/pillar support? They aren't heavy, I would think that would support it without having to do any drilling into the sheet metal on the roof. Idk though my off road knowledge is limited haha that's why I love reading what all you guys have to say.

thanks dude, i was always a mini trucker and this is my first 4x4, so im trying lol.

the "roll bar" will be the same size as my bed cage. i live around a bunch of backwood hillbillys with sewer pipe as bumpers and 6in roll bars..so i will NOT be doing that.