Why does this seem like a major design flaw on the wheel bearings?

[aeidian]

89 2.9 4x4

I had a noticeable bearing issue several months ago on the front axle. I replace both sides inner and outer and made it about a week before it sounded exactly the same as it did before I put the brand new bearings on there. I pulled it all apart again and one side the bearing was obviously trashed, looked like the rollers had been run through a meat grinder. When I first inspected them before I replaced them the outer lock nut was just a couple threads from the outside, I could freely spin it with my hand, so it wasn't tightened down. My mistake was not using the proper axlenut socket (I used a flat head screwdeiver and a hammer to tighten it down) and have no idea if I even torqued it to specs but it was tight. I probably didn't pack it as good as I should have because used the old handful of grease and repeatedly push it against the palm of my hand to mash the grease in. As I said it didn't make it a week before that bearing got ate. The axle shaft is fine. I again put new bearings on but this time bought the actual axlenut socket and torqued it properly. I even put a drop of locktight on the outer axle nut hoping it would help (someone is invariably gonna call me a dumbass because they'll say it got in the bearings, but I didn't see any evidence of that) but it made it about a couple weeks before it again started womp womp womping. This time I bought a bearing packer, the kind you put in the dish and push down on and it forces the grease through so I know it was packed. Its been about a month and now AGAIN ITS MAKING NOISE. Everytime I put this thing together I can't help but think the person that designed this was stupid, it has a seal on the back to keep the grease in but there's nothing on the front. The bearings aren't bone dry but its obviously lost alot of grease I put in there. I'm about to pull my hair out over this.

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[Hahnsb2]

Please explain in detail your procedure for installing the nuts. This is where the majority of mistakes are made.

 

[4.0B2]

I couldn't tell you the last time i put wheel bearings in my b2... and they are still fine! i'd guess its been 5 years? idk... i drive a lot to.

 

[kryptonitecb]

What size tires are you running? Anything larger than ~33's on a d35 will cause this. I have to check mine every month with my 37's.

 

[CHKNFKR]

Sounds more like user error to me.

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[4.0B2]

i figure if it was a "major" flaw... you'd see stuff on here like you do w/ the A4LD issues... or the early 2.9 head issues... you'd hear about it a lot more.

 

[--weezl--]

What size tires are you running? Anything larger than ~33's on a d35 will cause this. I have to check mine every month with my 37's.

doubtful within a month, though i agree they will wear out MUCH faster...

i agree with whomever it was that said user error, and ask you as well to explain in great detail your installation procedure...

is it possible you put the bearings in backwards? did you put them in the wrong places? did you replace your seals at the same time? are all the bearings the same brand? it is possible that the manufacture made a bad batch of bearings...

 

[legoms013]

I have no faith in anything but Timken bearings.

IF you improperly install new chinese bearings, they will toast in a few days.

IF you improperly install Timken bearings, they will toast, but will take much longer.

If you are doing everthing right, try Timken brand bearings, the chinesers don't last worth a crap.

I am questioning your install procedure. Inner nut should be 32 ftlbs, then back off, then retorque to around 16inlbs, or whatever takes out the slop. Outer nut should be torqued min of 150ftlbs, some will say even as high as 250, maybe you should do the same.

Keep us posted

 

[scotts90ranger]

I've put rotors on 3 D35's, and packed my D28 once, have yet to buy bearings for any of them, I just keep getting junk yard rotors with usable bearings so I keep them around (I think I have two full extra sets not including the two spare rotors I still have). Heck, half the time I just add a little grease behind the seal so I don't have to buy a seal and just leave the inner bearing in. People say the bearings on these are bad, and I agree there should be more than 1/4" between the races but I have yet to have a problem. I don't use any special method to set the preload, just go by feel then torque the CRAP out of the outer nut...

If the backspacing on your wheels is extreme like many of the Jeep guys use, THAT is very hard on the bearings...

 

[85_Ranger4x4]

is it possible you put the bearings in backwards? did you put them in the wrong places? did you replace your seals at the same time? are all the bearings the same brand? it is possible that the manufacture made a bad batch of bearings...

I don't think it is really possible to install the bearings backwards or in the wrong places.

The cups are driven into the brake rotor, you would have to somehow drive them out and then reassemble everything with the cones on the inside if it would go together... not a casual mistake.

The bearings are also different sizes, different enough they shouldn't easily mix.

There is an inner seal on the backside of the brake rotor and an o-ring on the 4x4 hub to seal the outside.

I turn the wheel the opposite way of the wrench as I torque the nut, it is how I was told to do it way back when and it has worked so far. I packed the bearings when I did the brakes 11.5 years ago, and then again last fall when a bad brake line burned down a rotor. I repacked the Timkin bearings on both sides that I have no idea how old they are and they are still working fine. The rotor did come with new races preinstalled though.

 

[kryptonitecb]

doubtful within a month, though i agree they will wear out MUCH faster...

i agree with whomever it was that said user error, and ask you as well to explain in great detail your installation procedure...

is it possible you put the bearings in backwards? did you put them in the wrong places? did you replace your seals at the same time? are all the bearings the same brand? it is possible that the manufacture made a bad batch of bearings...

I check cause mine are usually loose by then. Typically I need to replace bearings every 2-2.5 months. 100 lb wheel/tire combo will do that on a DD. I'm doing a d44 outer swap soon to correct this.

Sent from the road while ignoring traffic

 

[aeidian]

The bearings are also different sizes, different enough they shouldn't easily mix.

Different sizes? It's the same part number for both inner and outer bearings? Unless you mean different than needle bearing, but I don't think you meant that. Both inner and outer bearing on the front of this truck are the same.

 

[aeidian]

What size tires are you running? Anything larger than ~33's on a d35 will cause this. I have to check mine every month with my 37's.

Stock tires on this thing, no lift, everything is standard.

 

[aeidian]

Please explain in detail your procedure for installing the nuts. This is where the majority of mistakes are made.

Reused the seals on the back side of the rotor, part store has to order them and I don't have time to wait for them. They aren't bad anyway. The bearing cups are in there, I didn't remove them, just left them in there and put the new bearing up against them. Put the back seal back on, put the rotor on the axle. Pushed the outer bearing into the cup on the rotor, hand tightened the inner nut, wrenched it tight, spun the wheel, wrenched it tight, spun the wheel. Torqued it to 35 ft lbs then back off 1/4 turn, then retighten 16 in lbs. Put the washer on that fits on the little post on the inner locknut. Tightened the outer the same way, tighten, spin, tighten spin, then torque to 150 ft lbs. All this is per my Blue Truck Shop Manual. Ford Parts and Service Division Training and Publications Department. 1989 Book, there were two of them and I bought them off ebay awhile back from a guy I assume was selling his shop out. Possibly unrelated but the alignment on this truck is completely screwed. I took it in to get looked at and they told me it would be about $400 in parts and labor to get it straight and even then it might not be. Something about a barrel roll system. They told me that they could do a general alignment on it but it probably wouldn't do any good, so I told them that we'd have to call it right there then and then he went back and talked to the tech and the tech said that he thought it would make it go straight if he did it, so I paid the alignment fee and had it done. Didn't make a bit of difference. I have the alignment sheets and I'll post them here and you guys can see the before and after. I'm pretty sure I got ripped off.

 

[Sasquatch_Ryda]

SO you have toasted the bearings but have never replaced the bearing races? There's you're issue.....

Always.....ALWAYS replace the roller and races as a set....